T5 Adaptors
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
Cornhusker Rod & Custom-Parts is an option, but I just went to their site, and their price is up there now, however it's a complete package, minus the S10 t5.
Speedway sells both adapters mentioned, and the Offy is $65 more. But I don't see the throwout bearing fork and shaft included in the pictures.
I'm looking at this swap in an OT truck currently.
Speedway sells both adapters mentioned, and the Offy is $65 more. But I don't see the throwout bearing fork and shaft included in the pictures.
I'm looking at this swap in an OT truck currently.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
I'm almost ready to do this swap as well.....just trying to determine what size clutch I currently have so I can order the correct disk.
I am going to use the speedway kit, I have a friend who used one and it works fine.
Looks like the biggest amount of work is making a trans mount....
I am going to use the speedway kit, I have a friend who used one and it works fine.
Looks like the biggest amount of work is making a trans mount....
Thread Starter
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oldmerc
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton,Alberta
Found a T5
Picked up a T5 on the weekend it's out of an89 S10 so I will be able to install an electronic speedo that reads in KM/H (daughter is a little weak on miles,feet,pounds etc). It is geared a little lower than I wanted but the syncro will shur be nice .As to the adaptor i'm leaning toward the Speedway unit ,the price difference should about cover brokerage costs .
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,363
Likes: 76
From: Utah
I'm going to be using a Dwight Bond adapter plate along with a half bell (Hogshead) from a truck 4 speed trans. This way I can keep my original pedal setup etc. it also seemed like the cheapest best route for what i wanted at the time?
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
Josh, that looks good!
Any chance you could measure the center to center bolt spacing where the tranny meets the bell? Top to bottom, both sides, side to side for both in case they are aren't a perfect square, and diagonally to each other. I've got the Ford pattern, but i don't have the S10/GM pattern, and i'm looking at this option for an OT pickup. It appears find a 2wd t5 is difficult up here in 4x4 country. Thanks
Or if anyone can point me to a site or thread showing it, i don't want to be too much trouble.
Any chance you could measure the center to center bolt spacing where the tranny meets the bell? Top to bottom, both sides, side to side for both in case they are aren't a perfect square, and diagonally to each other. I've got the Ford pattern, but i don't have the S10/GM pattern, and i'm looking at this option for an OT pickup. It appears find a 2wd t5 is difficult up here in 4x4 country. Thanks
Or if anyone can point me to a site or thread showing it, i don't want to be too much trouble.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
All of the adaptors allow you to keep the stock pedal setup, don't they?
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 940
Likes: 4
From: Illinois
I went Speedway route. Stock pedal, shock throwout bearing, and stock pressure plate. Nice kit all around and customer service was great. You get a sleve for throw out bearing and a new pilot bushing. I got a truck hogs head from a 51 if you need it for the Dwight Bond methood, pm me. T5 swap is worth it IMO. Gotta cut crossmember and rebuild your own. When you get the T5 get the driveshaft too. It will save you money from having one made. You will only have to have it cut to length and change the rear u joint to a adapting u joint for the ford rear end. I welded my old stick to the T5 shifter to save a few buck as well.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Have any of you cut the stock crossmember ONLY enough to clear the T5? I know it's nice to be able to drop the T5 in/out with nothing there, but I'd be willing to forego that to not have too brace the rails, while cutting it clean in half. I'd be happy to add bracing back in to make up for lost strength, I just am not keen on completely removing the center.
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oldmerc
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton,Alberta
Further to Ross's question , do any of you guys know if the F3 cross member is deeper than that of the F1 .Seems to me I read something along those lines a while ago , or it could just be wishful thinking .
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Havi, that amazes me! Does a T5 completely clear the stock crossmember, behind a flathead? Or is there some of the c'member cut on the side we can't see? Is that behind a transplant engine that is further forward than a stock engine? Even so, that blows my mind that it clears as much as shown! Do you know whose build that is?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Yeah, you could drive a Mack truck thru the F-2/F-3 crossmember. I have one but putting it in would be a lot of trouble. It also hangs down a lot further, could be an issue on a low F-1.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
I forget, but it was on here, I think.
I got an F2 crossmember from Bob for my first F1 frame for clearing my t19, but never finished it. The master cylinder's holes are farther outward than the F1, too.
I got an F2 crossmember from Bob for my first F1 frame for clearing my t19, but never finished it. The master cylinder's holes are farther outward than the F1, too.
