Hi everyone,
This is my first time in the Inline six part of the forum As to why, it's because I currently own a f100 with a 360 fe, and it has blown. My friend has a 300/6, rebuilt about 30, 000 miles ago, looks great, and performs great. I was wondering how hard it would be to go from a 360 to a 300 6. I've already looked at the obvious such as engine mounts and bellhousing on my 4 speed t-18(pretty much going to be a stump puller) but would I need to change radiators? What about the carb linkage? This truck doesn't have a/c or power steering, so those are out of the question, but I was just wondering at what I could possibly be getting myself into. These are perhaps my favorite stocky little engines, so I figured Id take another mans junk into another mans treasure.

 

It's been a long time since I did my swap, 15 years, but I don't remember any major hang ups. I went from a 300 to a 36 in a 77 f250. It took me and a friend a weekend and the only glitch I remember was getting our hands on the correct motor mounts on a Sunday morning. The other final hick-up was that we didn't have the new hoses and exhaust pipes on hand for the final hookup. Had to make a trip to the auto parts store prior to driving it home on Monday. All and all I think everything we needed was pretty much interchangeable or we took it off one engine and placed it on the other.

Good Luck.

 

I went from a 390 (the same engine block as a 360) to a 300. You can prob. do a search and find my thread. The engines take diff. bellhousings. Your exh. will be diff. starter will be diff. Rad. inl/outl are diff. size and place. Motor mounts are moved forward to the existing holes. My trans X member had to be moved, but shafts were ok. You have to be aware of your oil pan. Ford made three for the 300: front,mid, and rear sump. You can use any, although you may have the rear type with the dip stick in the pan. If you change the pan, there is a oem little plug in front of the dizzy. You can drill it and pry it out, and use a thru block dip stick for the front or mid pan, but you have to change the oil p/u and tube as well.

Your mpg will go up about 50%.

Good luck.

 

I appreciate it! Luckily..i have everything just about ready to put it. If i may ask..y woyld i have to move the x member? Is it just because the oil pan? And could i still use the same radiator just move the plumbing around?

 

I went from a bb C6 to a sb C6. You have a manual trans so you may not have to move the x member. But you need a bell housing from a 351, 302.

 

I know..bringing up a dead thread..but I still have some unanswered questions in the lingering..even by trading this old thing I got to thinking. Could I still use my Fe radiator.? I know the hoses are different sizes and place..but what about some sort of flex hose? I don't believe the x member will need moving cuz the tranny will be the same..sorry again..but I didn't wanna start a new thread when I had one goin haha

 

You can have the inlet/outlet changed and relocated at most any radiator shop for not to much. Had it done on an old ****** radiator when I swapped in a Buick V6. It's been awhile but back then it was only about $75 for that and have it boiled out and pressure tested.

 

Hm..never thought of that. I guess my biggest thought was..are the positions that big a deal if you can run flex hose through? Or does the flow have to run a particular way. I like that idea..especially since I don't wanna have to change core supports too.

 

I don't think it would hurt to route them to work. If you've looked at the 300 in the truck you'll see that the top hose already runs from the right side of the block to the left side of the radiator.

 

Local shop charged me 50 bucks to reconfigure my 74 390 radiator for the 300.