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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
aussiecowboy's Avatar
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Another wiring thread

I'll soon be rewiring my 49 F3 (Aussie version so it's RHD). After a lot of research I've settled on either an Ez Wiring or Rebel wiring harness. Rebel make a kit for RHD but Ez Wiring tell me theirs will fit also.

My main drama though is whether 12 circuits will be enough for the F3 considering I want to run an elec fuel pump, dome light and a phone charging point? Would I be better off going for the 21 circuit and have a few spare? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm a complete novice at wiring. If I go for a 21 the Ez Wiring is quite a bit cheaper, not sure why.

Also I want to ditch the sealed beams and got to a H4 upgrade, how hard is it to modify the harness to include relays etc for this?

Any advice or experience greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:10 PM
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I have never had a problem making a 12 circuit work for what you are talking about. It's when you add A/C, power windows, power locks, efi, etc. that you need to step up. The best way is to sit down and make a list of every circuit you plan on running - lights, horn, turn signal, radio, fuel pump, heater, wipers, cig. lighter, etc.

As for the HD headlights, the relays are typically wired in after the dimmer switch, so it really depends on your relay wiring kit, not the wiring harness (unless the wiring harness comes with the HD light kit, some don't). I always make sure the HD light kit harness has good relays and heavy wire.

Not really sure where there would be a wiring harness difference between RHD and LHD. Sure the fuse panel would most likely be ran on the opposite side of the truck but don't see that being a problem.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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I ran the 12 circuit kit from EZ and there is no wire for the fuel pump or lighter but I was able to get power from other circuits I wasnt using. I got power for the fuel pump from the cruise control wire and power for the power outlet from the power window wire. I am using 11 of the 12 circuits in my kit. My extra circuit I am not using is the electric fan wire. Its a constant 12v so it would need to be wired to a switch for whatever I needed it for but dont think I will use it.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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IMHO you can never have too much power!
I have used the EZWire mini 21 circuit kit and am very pleased with it. What the extra circuits give you is versatility, you can choose from always powered, key on power, accessory power, etc without running out of circuits.

Don't cut the extra circuit wires off, you can use a small tool like a paper clip to release any unused connectors and attached wire, then coil up those wires and store them away for future expansion. That way you don't need to leave a coil of extra wires under the dash, and you can just snap the connector and fuse back into the block later if you decide you want to add something new. The wires on the EZWire fuse block are long enough that you can mount the block almost anywhere: under the dash, in the kick panel, in the glove box, under or behind the seat, wherever it is convenient for you. I believe the kit comes with a headlight relay that will handle HD bulbs. If you go to the high intensity projector lights they usually come with a suitable relay and wiring.
The EZW kit comes with plug in connectors for GM wired steering columns (most aftermarket columns use these connectors as well) as well as GM OEM style switches that EZW sells.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by aussiecowboy
I'll soon be rewiring my 49 F3 (Aussie version so it's RHD). After a lot of research I've settled on either an Ez Wiring or Rebel wiring harness. Rebel make a kit for RHD but Ez Wiring tell me theirs will fit also.

My main drama though is whether 12 circuits will be enough for the F3 considering I want to run an elec fuel pump, dome light and a phone charging point? Would I be better off going for the 21 circuit and have a few spare? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm a complete novice at wiring. If I go for a 21 the Ez Wiring is quite a bit cheaper, not sure why.

Also I want to ditch the sealed beams and got to a H4 upgrade, how hard is it to modify the harness to include relays etc for this?

Any advice or experience greatly appreciated.
Hey Aussie, Here's what I know on H4 Headlight upgrades.
I upgraded my 73 Vw THING with H4 headlights last summer, and all I did was swap out the headlight fixtures, and install the new H4 fixtures.
No relays or extra heavy wire was required, I believe the "why" is due to that the bulb wattages (that came with my kit) were very close to "stock" 55-65watts (from memory). I think if you run hotter than 'stock' wattages, thats when you drift into needing heavy guage wire and relays.
I got Hella H4's and they are definatly brighter looking, even though the wattages are similar to stock, but being halogen helps, probably better reflectors too. I bought these from the "Thing Shop" which is a Vw THING store only, but I know the owner, met him many times at a few Kubeltreffen shows, they know their stuff and dont try to steer their only customers wrong, I also have a handful of other THING brothers that have done the same upgrade with no mods.

But, I know if you run the real hi wattage "ice blue" lights, i've heard of needing wireing upgrade or relays.

Hey I Know it's VW related, but a headlight's a headlight, I was happy with the Hella H4's, they are plastic and 1 was damaged when I got it, had to do a return swap but they made it right. Easy install, did both in one evening.

I had actually thought of trying to put them in my 51 F1 just to see if they'd fit. Will advise when I do.

Hey, Hope this helps you in your info search.
good luck with your build

T
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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I agree with doublecanister to a point. H4s don't draw enough extra current that they would overtax the more modern wiring and switch in the VW or any other vehicle with a fuse block (and quite likely to have a relay hidden in the wiring).
A relay is nothing more than a heavy duty switch turned on and off by another switch. The controlling switch needs only a small current running through it, so the manual switch it isn't going to heat up, wear out or corrode. Further the relay can be located close to the device it controls so the heavier current carrying wire can be kept short and direct. Relays make a lot of sense to use and most modern vehicles have a handful of them in their wiring circuits. A relay is a simple device to wire and is good extra protection for your wiring not only for your headlights, but also in the horn, electric cooling fan, AC, and other hi draw circuits.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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Not sure what the cost difference is but I vote for the 21 kit, you can never have to much power.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 02:08 AM
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That's why I love this forum, great advice, thanks guys.

The 21 circuit is only $15 extra, I was a bit worried about the unused wires being messy bit if they can be removed it's not really a problem. Ez wiring 21 circuit gets the win. I'll also go for a new ignition key, the old one feels a bit sloppy.

The column is not a concern for me, I'm using the original which has no turn signals, key etc. I'll have to find an after market blinker system to install.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 05:57 AM
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Ez wiring 21 circuit ordered.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Rebel wiring

I bought a Rebel kit for my 50 F1 and it was very nice. I bought the 6 volt kit and am very happy with it. The guy at Rebel was very helpful when I had questions during the install and even helped me when I was having trouble getting the starter to kick in. I would definitely recommend their kits. High quality and great customer service.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mlis
I bought a Rebel kit for my 50 F1 and it was very nice. I bought the 6 volt kit and am very happy with it. The guy at Rebel was very helpful when I had questions during the install and even helped me when I was having trouble getting the starter to kick in. I would definitely recommend their kits. High quality and great customer service.
It's good that you are happy with your kit, but looking at their website, they are a whole lot more expensive than the EZWiring kits. Not as bad as Painless, but close.
 
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