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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Old school carb trick

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Old school carb trick

Hi,
I just thought I'd share my fuel experiences of the last day and a half with everyone.

Yesterday I installed two new gas tanks and sending units, a new switching valve, a new in line fuel filter, and a new car mounted fuel filter.

I have a 2wd 300 six, 1bbl carb, 3 spd w/od, 82f150 lwb std cab truck.

After the change out I started having some fuel troubles. She wouldn't idle nice, and after driving at highway speeds I shifted to neutral and coasted while braking to a stop she would die. This morning it took all I could do to keep it running.

Fast forward to this afternoon; the buddy that helped me (an ASE certified mechanic) told me to clamp off the intake hose to my mechanical fuel pump, run the truck, rev it up and run all the gas out of the carb.

I thought it did not work as it was still idling rough but after driving 15 miles in third at 65 mph the debris worked itself out.

She runs great, I did not have to take carb out, and both tanks and gauges work.

It's not always what we know but being willing to listen to others who know more than ourselves!!!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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Agreed it's not a dumb idea until it doesn't work, but alot of those wierd tricks do.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Had a similar incident once, but with an electric pump.
Was on a car show cruise and as soon as I let off the gas, the engine would flood. Something was holding the needle open. Shut off the pump and let it run for a bit and hit the pump again. Did this a few times and the piece pushed through the needle and ran good again.
When I got home, I pulled the fuel bowls and discovered a small piece of rubber from when I assembled the Earl's hoses and fittings. And I thought they were clean inside.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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My 300 did that to me yesterday except the needle was stuck open (again) pouring fuel all over my engine. So, today when I get off work, I'll be rebuilding the carb.

My truck sat for 5 years and there is a layer of silt in the bottom of the carb. I replaced the rubber fuel lines and the fuel pump because an earlier episode with the carb caused the float to stick closed (didn't expect that one). I have two fuel filters to help with the crap I couldn't suck out of the fuel tank so I'm sure the silt in the carb is causing all of the havoc I'm currently experiencing. Fun stuff!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Very fun stuff Yaga!!

With all the restarts I had it exposed my alternator to be the weak old lady she is.

I picked my boy up from third shift job this morning, drove with lights, defrost, and radio on. After i got ready for work the truck wouldn't crank. I had to jump it with my jeep, bring it to my buddy (i didn't have time to replace it myself), and have a new one put in.

I have to consider it a blessing, i didn't get stranded.

I had him pull off the smog pump so if anyone wants that it's free to a good home!!!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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Actually it is a old mechanic's trick (I should know, some people on here accuse me of being old) it will let the fuel level in the float bowl get low, allowing the float to drop way down. When you open the line again, the surge of gas will wash a small piece of trash out of the inlet needle and seat.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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LeBaron,

That's exactly how it was explained to me!!!

I'm loving the new sending unit for the rear tank...100 miles driven, 3/4 tank used by gauge. 75 more miles driven, 1/8 tank used by gauge. I think I'll run the rear outta gas just to learn the gauge (the front is full).

I'm stopped during a 400 mile drive for a rest
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Yaga1973
My 300 did that to me yesterday except the needle was stuck open (again) pouring fuel all over my engine. So, today when I get off work, I'll be rebuilding the carb.

My truck sat for 5 years and there is a layer of silt in the bottom of the carb. I replaced the rubber fuel lines and the fuel pump because an earlier episode with the carb caused the float to stick closed (didn't expect that one). I have two fuel filters to help with the crap I couldn't suck out of the fuel tank so I'm sure the silt in the carb is causing all of the havoc I'm currently experiencing. Fun stuff!
I ran two filters, both being the pleated-paper see-through ones, on my '82. One of the filters was ahead of the pump to protect it, and one between the pump and the carb. Even then I had silt in the carb, but usually not enough to cause problems. And, I had to change out the one ahead of the pump every few months.

Whatever you do, don't rely on the screw-in filters that go on the carb. All of the ones I've seen, and I've taken several apart including a Motorcraft one, are just screen internally and catch tools left in the tank - but not silt or even hunks of rust.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:21 AM
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Another trick we used to do, with the engine running, and your head out of the way (in case of backfire. Rev the engine up and close the choke until engine almost dies then open choke. Do that a couple of times, it might clear out any particles.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GLR
Another trick we used to do, with the engine running, and your head out of the way (in case of backfire. Rev the engine up and close the choke until engine almost dies then open choke. Do that a couple of times, it might clear out any particles.

You beat me to it! That works good with a high side jet plugged, or some water sloshing in the float bowl.

With a extreamly dirty fuel system, I have installed a marine water/fuel seperator filter before the pump. It has a removable glass bowl so you can see the crud.
 
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