Drill and tap 2.5" reducer
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 75
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Drill and tap 2.5" reducer
I am going to drill and tap my 2.5 inch reducer sleeve and put a bolt in to stop it from sliding around as I slide a hitch bar in or pull it out. Right now it is like some game that I am not very good at trying to get them lined up to get the hitch pin in! It will also stop me from losing the silly thing if I forget to put the pin back in there, and hopefully make it less likely to be stolen. What a disaster it would be if somebody stole or I lost the reducer when my camper was parked in a campground and we were ready to leave!
Seems like this would be better than tack welding in case I do need to use the 2.5" receiver for some unforseen reason.
Has anybody else done this?
Seems like this would be better than tack welding in case I do need to use the 2.5" receiver for some unforseen reason.
Has anybody else done this?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 700
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From: Northern Il/Cabin in Wi
I'd like to see a pic of that when done. I am taking it by tap you are saying the bolt will be flush with the surface?
Edit, it just hit me what you are saying........still like to see pic when you are done.
Edit, it just hit me what you are saying........still like to see pic when you are done.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 414
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From: Indian Trail, NC
I bought a 2.5" shank for my weight distribution hitch. A lot less slop/play in the hitch and much quieter while towing because it doesn't move around. I still use the reducer for my utility trailer though.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 75
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 167
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From: Manassas, VA
I got one of these...
Self-Locking, Adjustable, Aluminum Ball Mount - 2 Chrome ***** - 4" Drop, 5" Rise - 10K Diversi-Tech Ball Mounts DTALBM6425
Pricey, but it works very well...
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 122
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Are you saying to drill and tap the outer sleeve, but not the 2"? I'm envisioning a simple set screw putting pressure on the 2" sleeve to keep it in place, but not a hole through the 2" sleeve. I also don't see any problems with that idea.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 173
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I got one of these...
Self-Locking, Adjustable, Aluminum Ball Mount - 2 Chrome ***** - 4" Drop, 5" Rise - 10K Diversi-Tech Ball Mounts DTALBM6425
Pricey, but it works very well...
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: FLG AZ
Like that hitch alot. Think I'll be ordering one today, thanks for the info. Did find it here a bit cheaper (plus free shipping)
DT-ALBM6625 - 6" Drop/2.5" Shank DT Adjustable Ball Mount | Adjustable Hitches | TrailerHitchSource.com
DT-ALBM6625 - 6" Drop/2.5" Shank DT Adjustable Ball Mount | Adjustable Hitches | TrailerHitchSource.com
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2012
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What are you guys towing that would be heavy enough to warrant a 2.5" drawbar yet not want torsion/weigjt distributing bars on it? I tow a large travel trailer and my hitch head has the weight distribution bar couplers and an anti-sway bar ball on it along with the 2 and 5/16 ball. The hitch head advertised has none of that.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 414
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From: Indian Trail, NC
I tow a 9k TT. I bought the Reese 2.5" drawbar that goes with my dual cam hitch. I didnt like to use the reducer because the hitch moved around a lot. It doesn't move very much at all with the big draw bar.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 84
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From: BC, Canada
I like the way you guys think I may just do that today, that reducer is a PITA!
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 414
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From: Indian Trail, NC
I see what everyone is thinking. I do have one concern though. Is drilling a hole and tapping it for a set screw to hold the reducer going to alter the structural integrity of the hitch tube? Just thinking out loud here. By drilling a hole, you are creating a weak spot in the hitch and may be asking for issues down the road. The reducer isn't that big of a PITA to alter my hitch. It is a good idea to come up with something to hold the reducer in place, I'm just not going to drill my hitch.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 173
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Bought mine at Uhaul.com; about the same price ($223 including shipping) but the drop is a bit less.
I tow an enclosed race car trailer, so including the car and a lot of tools and stuff, I am about 6500 lbs.
My SD is, uh, a bit of overkill. Once upon a time I towed it with an Expedition; this is way better.
Details: DiversiTech
Adjustable Dual Locking Double Ball Hitch
2" & 2-5/16" *****
4" Drop - 5" Rise
http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/...5-Rise?id=9332
I tow an enclosed race car trailer, so including the car and a lot of tools and stuff, I am about 6500 lbs.
My SD is, uh, a bit of overkill. Once upon a time I towed it with an Expedition; this is way better.
Details: DiversiTech
Adjustable Dual Locking Double Ball Hitch
2" & 2-5/16" *****
4" Drop - 5" Rise
http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/...5-Rise?id=9332
Last edited by RickBetterley; Mar 26, 2012 at 10:31 AM. Reason: Added link to UHaul page
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 172
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I considered doing this, but decided on a different method.
I think that the drilling/tapping idea may be a problem when towing heavy loads. The tapped holes threads would be subject to a lot of force as the hitch shank experinces differing forces..I think it would end up stripping the threads.
I took a short piece of 1" strap steel and screwed it to the rear of the adaptor with it installed in the reciever. Hard to explain, but is attached so that tha adaptor stays in place, but will still float freely without putting pressure on the strap steel. It's movement is only restricted by the 5/8" hitch pin. Now I don't have to worry about losing it. It has some anti theft value, and I can remove it if needed, and I didn't compromise the integrity of the hitch.
I think that the drilling/tapping idea may be a problem when towing heavy loads. The tapped holes threads would be subject to a lot of force as the hitch shank experinces differing forces..I think it would end up stripping the threads.
I took a short piece of 1" strap steel and screwed it to the rear of the adaptor with it installed in the reciever. Hard to explain, but is attached so that tha adaptor stays in place, but will still float freely without putting pressure on the strap steel. It's movement is only restricted by the 5/8" hitch pin. Now I don't have to worry about losing it. It has some anti theft value, and I can remove it if needed, and I didn't compromise the integrity of the hitch.
