Help!! Oil sprayed/full valley, HPOP lines seem ok
#1
Help!! Oil sprayed/full valley, HPOP lines seem ok
Drving home, 50 mph trying to goose mpg (at 22.2 when this happened).
Engine chugged, loss of oil pressure and died. Coasted into parking lot, popped hood and saw passenger side of engine sprayed with oil, GPR coated, black sea in the valley. Oil seems to be GPR and back
Drivers side valve cover and everything seems untouched, no oil.
HPOP lines seem to be fine, not covered in oil, no obvious blow outs.
Ideas????? Can it still be HPOP lines with nothing obvious.
Dip stick doesn't register any oil, so at least a gallon down? Or would it be more?
Going to get more oil to fill up and see if I can get it started and see exactly where it's leaking from.
Do I need to fill the HPOP reservoir too?
Any ideas what blew, if not the HPOP line???
Thanks for the help guys.
Engine chugged, loss of oil pressure and died. Coasted into parking lot, popped hood and saw passenger side of engine sprayed with oil, GPR coated, black sea in the valley. Oil seems to be GPR and back
Drivers side valve cover and everything seems untouched, no oil.
HPOP lines seem to be fine, not covered in oil, no obvious blow outs.
Ideas????? Can it still be HPOP lines with nothing obvious.
Dip stick doesn't register any oil, so at least a gallon down? Or would it be more?
Going to get more oil to fill up and see if I can get it started and see exactly where it's leaking from.
Do I need to fill the HPOP reservoir too?
Any ideas what blew, if not the HPOP line???
Thanks for the help guys.
#2
No oil on dipstick means at least 2 gallons down, and you're not far from the engine not even being able to run.
No need to fill reservoir.
All it takes is a small crack at the kinds of pressure put out by the HPOP to spray a lot of oil quickly. Might not be obvious until you check with the engine running and someone punching the throttle at idle.
No need to fill reservoir.
All it takes is a small crack at the kinds of pressure put out by the HPOP to spray a lot of oil quickly. Might not be obvious until you check with the engine running and someone punching the throttle at idle.
#3
No oil on dipstick means at least 2 gallons down, and you're not far from the engine not even being able to run.
No need to fill reservoir.
All it takes is a small crack at the kinds of pressure put out by the HPOP to spray a lot of oil quickly. Might not be obvious until you check with the engine running and someone punching the throttle at idle.
No need to fill reservoir.
All it takes is a small crack at the kinds of pressure put out by the HPOP to spray a lot of oil quickly. Might not be obvious until you check with the engine running and someone punching the throttle at idle.
That's what I thought, but what has me perplexed as they seem to not be the least bit wet with oil, nothing pooling at the connector to the block or anything.
Are there any other high pressure oil failures up in there? Could it be farther back, the pedestal or EBPV valve causing a catastrophic failure?
#5
Well, I think I found it. And Pete you were right, it took nine quarts.
I haven't fired it up yet, clearly too late to be wrenching for me.
I did clean off everything as best I could and then started snooping around.
Everything on the passenger side from the fuel bowl drain pipe and rubber connector, GPR, top side of valve cover, passemger side fuel line, and plenum boot were wet and had that "just washed in scalding oil" look. So whatever it was, it was either leaking on, or towards the passenger side.
Oddly, HPOP lines and connectors look dry and completely intact, as well as no oil pooling or seeping at the connectors.
On to the HPOP. Plug on passenger side dry and looks a bit crusty, nothing going on there. HPOP lines into HPOP, same thing. Non serviceable plug as well, dry and crusty. IPR, yellow connector, and plug on back of HPOP (facing firewall, drivers side) wet and have the scalding oil bathe look.
Took a mirror and flashlight to them. The plug has remnants of what appears to be a blown o-ring, shredded and coming apart in strands on the side facing the passengers side. I was able to pull these fragments off, they appear gray in color and have a not so rubbery feel to them.
I haven't pulled the plug yet. Is there anything I need to do when replacing the o-ring? Is oil going to come pouring out?
Is this o-ring known to blow and cause the rapid oil loss like I experienced? Is/was that a gray o-ring, or did wear discolor it?
Thanks for the help guys. From reading here in the past, I had a great sense of where to start trouble shooting (thst's if I have this pegged correctly?
I haven't fired it up yet, clearly too late to be wrenching for me.
I did clean off everything as best I could and then started snooping around.
Everything on the passenger side from the fuel bowl drain pipe and rubber connector, GPR, top side of valve cover, passemger side fuel line, and plenum boot were wet and had that "just washed in scalding oil" look. So whatever it was, it was either leaking on, or towards the passenger side.
Oddly, HPOP lines and connectors look dry and completely intact, as well as no oil pooling or seeping at the connectors.
On to the HPOP. Plug on passenger side dry and looks a bit crusty, nothing going on there. HPOP lines into HPOP, same thing. Non serviceable plug as well, dry and crusty. IPR, yellow connector, and plug on back of HPOP (facing firewall, drivers side) wet and have the scalding oil bathe look.
Took a mirror and flashlight to them. The plug has remnants of what appears to be a blown o-ring, shredded and coming apart in strands on the side facing the passengers side. I was able to pull these fragments off, they appear gray in color and have a not so rubbery feel to them.
I haven't pulled the plug yet. Is there anything I need to do when replacing the o-ring? Is oil going to come pouring out?
Is this o-ring known to blow and cause the rapid oil loss like I experienced? Is/was that a gray o-ring, or did wear discolor it?
Thanks for the help guys. From reading here in the past, I had a great sense of where to start trouble shooting (thst's if I have this pegged correctly?
#6
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#8
I had the o-ring on that plug let go a couple years ago. It spewed several quarts within a couple miles. You'll need to get the kit from Guzzle that has the Loctite 680 designed to work with the Viton o-ring. (I spent too much at the dealer for it since I needed it ASAP) Cleaning the plug and HPOP threads are crucial before you apply the Loctite. I used a mirror and Q-tips to make sure it was spotless and dry. Here's a link to the o-ring kit: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
#9
#10
I had the o-ring on that plug let go a couple years ago. It spewed several quarts within a couple miles. You'll need to get the kit from Guzzle that has the Loctite 680 designed to work with the Viton o-ring. (I spent too much at the dealer for it since I needed it ASAP) Cleaning the plug and HPOP threads are crucial before you apply the Loctite. I used a mirror and Q-tips to make sure it was spotless and dry. Here's a link to the o-ring kit: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
#13
#15
Since you are doing that, I would go through and replace all of the 0-rings with this kit: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
And, have the rest on hand for future repair. At the age of our rigs, I think this sort of preemptive maintanence keeps us from being stranded on the highway at the worst possible time.