1971 Bronco front ujoint replacement
#2
1.Jack up and support on stand.
2.Remove wheel.
3.Back off brake adjustment
4.Remove locking hub ****.
5.Remove outer ring from wheel hub and snap ring from axle end. Remove hub assembly, noting where everything goes. Factory hubs are a little different from aftermarket.
6.You need the special hub socket. Remove outer locknut and retainer. Remove inner nut
7.Remove hub and brake drum assembly
8.Remove 6 bolts holding spindle on. There is a special tool for spindle removal. A soft hammer or a wood block can be used to loosen spindle from knuckle. Be careful not to damage seal or bearing surface.
9.Remove axle
The best way I've found for u joint disassembly is to cut the cross out with a torch then drive the caps into the center. The heat breaks the rust up and makes them come apart easily. Also keeps from bending the yoke ears. If not, remove the clips. Rest axle yoke on vise so that the opposite yoke is supported and hammer on the meat of the axle.
Remove the caps on the cross you're working on and insert into axle. Install cap onto cross and set cap on flat hard surface. Hit the meat of the axle yoke to drive the cap in and install that clip. Pull cross through slightly and install cap. Make sure that cap is straight and not catching on any rollers. Put cap on hard surface and drive on the opposite side yoke until retaining clip groove is accessible. You may need to alternately hit the yoke to center the joint and make the joint loose. You can use a vise to install the u joints, I've found it faster and easier to do it this way.
Reverse order for assembly. If you have a Dana 44 it is a good idea to assemble a tool that will go into the axle housing up to the axle seal and scrape out any excess grease, dirt or mud. This will keep you from forcing the debris into the inner axle seal and causing a leak. I made one from a broomstick and a fender washer.
Hope this helps,
Jason
Jason
2.Remove wheel.
3.Back off brake adjustment
4.Remove locking hub ****.
5.Remove outer ring from wheel hub and snap ring from axle end. Remove hub assembly, noting where everything goes. Factory hubs are a little different from aftermarket.
6.You need the special hub socket. Remove outer locknut and retainer. Remove inner nut
7.Remove hub and brake drum assembly
8.Remove 6 bolts holding spindle on. There is a special tool for spindle removal. A soft hammer or a wood block can be used to loosen spindle from knuckle. Be careful not to damage seal or bearing surface.
9.Remove axle
The best way I've found for u joint disassembly is to cut the cross out with a torch then drive the caps into the center. The heat breaks the rust up and makes them come apart easily. Also keeps from bending the yoke ears. If not, remove the clips. Rest axle yoke on vise so that the opposite yoke is supported and hammer on the meat of the axle.
Remove the caps on the cross you're working on and insert into axle. Install cap onto cross and set cap on flat hard surface. Hit the meat of the axle yoke to drive the cap in and install that clip. Pull cross through slightly and install cap. Make sure that cap is straight and not catching on any rollers. Put cap on hard surface and drive on the opposite side yoke until retaining clip groove is accessible. You may need to alternately hit the yoke to center the joint and make the joint loose. You can use a vise to install the u joints, I've found it faster and easier to do it this way.
Reverse order for assembly. If you have a Dana 44 it is a good idea to assemble a tool that will go into the axle housing up to the axle seal and scrape out any excess grease, dirt or mud. This will keep you from forcing the debris into the inner axle seal and causing a leak. I made one from a broomstick and a fender washer.
Hope this helps,
Jason
Jason
#4
#5
Technically, there is no difference in 44 shafts. However, very early 44's (71.5 only) have a unique spindle bearing seal, similar to a 30. So the stub shafts are slightly different. You can use the later axles, on early housings. I think you need to change spindles though.
What side are you needing? I have a couple of used axles and matching spindles.
Jason
What side are you needing? I have a couple of used axles and matching spindles.
Jason
#6
#7
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#9
also.... if you dont feel like messing with the u-joint replacement yourself you can always take it to a NAPA and the can send it out and have the joints done for you. Just make sure there is no hitch or bind when you spend the re-assembled shaft in your hand.... a plastic deadblow is great for aligning those things....
#10
Jason, I can't pm yet but, a price would be nice. It's 19 spline outter about 10 3/4", 30 inside and about 19 1/6" if that helps. I have no guarantee to buy it, it's my uncles bronco and he was thinking about getting window frame rails, linkage for the gear shifter and other stuff. I can run the price by him. I'm just the grease monkey.
BOBA, Putting the ujoint is the easy part, I have a 35 ton press at work, but thanks for the info.
BOBA, Putting the ujoint is the easy part, I have a 35 ton press at work, but thanks for the info.
#14
I torch the cross out and drive the caps into the center after the 2 shafts are separated. The heat breaks up the rust and age and they come out pretty easily.
I use a hammer to install them by putting the cap on a flat surface and driving on the axle yoke on the other end. Much nicer to do in the shop, but a rock on the trail works too
Jason
I use a hammer to install them by putting the cap on a flat surface and driving on the axle yoke on the other end. Much nicer to do in the shop, but a rock on the trail works too
Jason
#15
I got a shaft and replaced the ujoint on the shaft. Funny thing is it looks the same, but the u-joint caps were bigger.? While putting it in I had to take the seal off the end of the hub housing and it fit ok. So I bolted it all up and just before I put the tire on I gave it a spin. Well it wouldn't spin with the hub locked. I got to looking around and it looks like on the old shaft the ears where the u-joint goes is tapered to fit more into the grove of the hub housing. So my question is; should I take it all back apart and grind off some of the housing, or let it wear?? Or just do something totally different??