Hello all, just took my 2008 f250 crew diesel in for fuel filters to be changed and the newest flash update. Now service advisor is saying I need rear pads and rotors. Claims the slider pins are sticking and caused premature failure. I decline brake service and bring home to investigate myself. Truck is only used to pull my rv and ocassional weekend driving/hauling with only 26000 miles. Yesterday I pull rear wheels and look only to find passenger side rear pads very low and crumbling apart. Drivers side ok. I picked up the parts myself and decided to just change out pads and rotors cause I worry towing my trailer with marginal brakes. All the slider pins look and function ok i do not find them sticking at all but on the passenger side the caliper has 2 pistons one of which the o ring seal was destroyed and burnt up plus I could not drive it back into housing with c clamp but the second would go fairly easy. Now i replace caliper and reassemble. All ok on the rear now. They said the front is fine and no concerns but after a test drive i return home and decide to laser temp shoot all the rotors and brakes. 3 of them read between 105-140 then i got the front passenger at 450 degrees??? Havent investigated but im thinking it is sticking too. Anybody have this problem???? guess im going be pullin the front apart in the morning.

 

common problem, I had to replace my rear calipers on my 06 with 45k miles....they just get chittted up unless you want to disassemble and clean em every so often.

 

when a truck sits lot then you will have that type of an issue. You did the right thing by doing it yourself. Probably saved several hundred bucks.

I am at 64K on my orginals so maybe check out your trailer brakes while you are at it.

 

[quote=senix;11584139]when a truck sits lot then you will have that type of an issue. You did the right thing by doing it yourself. Probably saved several hundred bucks.

Yeah I would say so considering ford wanted 900 for a rear pads and rotors only. Im sure once they got into it and found what i found the service advisor would be coming after me for another 500 for the caliper. I never use factory service unless its warranty related but i had to get the new pcm update and i was due for a fuel filter change so i just let them do it. I hear some say that you should change out both sides and not only one then others say im fine with just the one. Any thoughts????

 

I have had to do my fronts twice and my rear ones once. Truck as 65,000 miles on it. The fronts locked up again at less than 10,000. luckily it locked up when I pulled into a shop so I had them do it and they were under warranty. If I had done them myself I would have eaten it the first time.

 

Just thought I would put an update out there. After straightening out all the brake problems and sticking calipers ive been running the truck all over this week. Put about 400 miles on her since last weekend when i changed out calipers, rotors, and pads. Ive never seen this before but my lie-o-meter is averaging 15.1 mpg and i hand calculated it as well which is pretty close. Ive noticed the mpg dipping off recently over the last few months ive been getting 11.8-12.0 at best. Now im thinking its either the winter diesel blends, calipers sticking on me, latest flash update I got or a combination of all 3. Im thinking mainly the calipers sticking so if anyone is having poor mpg this might be a sign to look for!

 

One shouldn't have to do it but it's a good idea to walk around and "feel" the wheels after being on the road for any abnormal temp changes.
I like the "no touch" method of the IR temp gun. Harbor Freight is the place to get them on the cheap! Picked one up when it was on sale for $26
Some of you guys might like this tool as it has several uses, on of which I use on my wood burning stove and Patio Barbeque. It's a fun tool to have.

 

I had the same problem on mine. 3 years old and 58,000 miles. One front wheel would not turn by hand when jacked up. The dealer wanted $800 to change both calipers "for my convenience". I'm assuming for that price it included new calipers (with fluid flush), rotors, and pads, but didn't ask. I told him no thanks and took care of it myself.

Same thing with the inside pad not sliding in the caliper and sitting up against the rotor. The calipers are not bad. Caliper is actually fine! The problem is the rust and dirt buildup in the caliper bracket where the pads sit. The friction increases there and then the metal spring clip can't push the pad back away from the rotor.

I pulled the pads off, cleaned out the rust, and and put caliper grease in the groove and was able to get the spring clips working again. I already had the wire brush and grease in the toolbox.

Cost = $0

My pads are getting low but still plenty of pad material left.

I already bought a new set of pads but decided to save them for my next oil change.