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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #31  
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From: placer county usa?
your using self etching primer under the cab, i think you said
then use por15 on the radiator support, why the def?
just asking for my info i have both also(sample pac of por)
your metal work is great!!
roy
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #32  
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Thanks.

I assume you're talking about this hole-



I have no idea why it's there. It isn't all the way through the floor, only in the bottom of the cab mount. They were there when I got it- So I assumed they were supposed to be there- though they don't seem to serve any purpose. Hell- The whole mount was rusted away on the other cab. It turns out you don't really NEED the cab mounts at all- You can just let it sit on the frame
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #33  
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Yep thats the one.

I still need to weld my mounts down yet. But not until I blast the cab. I still have 20 hours of work to do on the cab between what I have left before and after its blasted.

Roy, Im assuming the use of the POR is to really rust proof the rad support. Self etch primer will do a decent job, but I think the idea is to use something a touch more permanent Im betting.

Not to hi-jack, but my buddy POR'ed the frame on his dads Edsel they fixed up. They took what was left and brushed it on the sides of a rusty anvil. Once dry, you can beat it with a hammer, and it does nothing. Tough stuff, and the anvil has been sitting outside the shop on a stump as long as I can remember before and about 5 years after they POR'ed it.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by schoo
your using self etching primer under the cab, i think you said
then use por15 on the radiator support, why the def?
Missed this!

I used POR on the radiator support because there was still dome rust that I wanted to encapsulate. I got the bottom of the cab all the way down to bare, clean steel, and the self etching primer sticks to that VERY well... I think that POR would have been overkill.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by C G B
They took what was left and brushed it on the sides of a rusty anvil. Once dry, you can beat it with a hammer, and it does nothing. Tough stuff, and the anvil has been sitting outside the shop on a stump as long as I can remember before and about 5 years after they POR'ed it.
I can believe it- it seems to be some tough stuff!

I'm a blacksmith, and I've got two anvils in my shop, a 1916 arm & hammer and an English "mouse hole" brand which dates from 1790-1795. I actually use them quite a bit when I'm making repair panels, I'm pretty comfortable forming metal on one. I'd never POR my anvils, though! I keep them good and clean, no rust there!!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:39 AM
  #36  
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From: placer county usa?
thanks guys for the paint info thats were i was going por in hard to get places
roy
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by andgott
I can believe it- it seems to be some tough stuff!

I'm a blacksmith, and I've got two anvils in my shop, a 1916 arm & hammer and an English "mouse hole" brand which dates from 1790-1795. I actually use them quite a bit when I'm making repair panels, I'm pretty comfortable forming metal on one. I'd never POR my anvils, though! I keep them good and clean, no rust there!!
Id actually like to own just a smaller basic anvil around 100 lbs or so. Its one of those things thats handy to have. But I really dont have a place to properly set it up and use it. Maybe some day when I have a large shop, instead of just a small 2 car garage.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #38  
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After a lot of long dirty hours, I got the floors and firewall prepped. I removed the paint, and the rust, with a wire wheel... Once I had it all down to bare metal (or mostly so!), I gave it a good coat of POR-



I wanted to seal off the floors as well as I could, so I never have rust issues to deal with. Oddly enough, all the rust damage on this cab is on the INSIDE- the outside was perfect...

I've still got a lot of stripping to do on the cab, but I like to do it in 'sections' like this so I don't leave anything bare for too long

I do hope to have the rest of the cab epoxy primed by the end of the week....

-Andrew
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 11:07 AM
  #39  
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Work continues, slowly but surely. I had an #%&#@ neighbor call the Sheriff on my yesterday because I was being too loud with my grinder, and interrupting his sleep (at 9:30 in the morning!)... The deputy that stopped by was nice about things, though- He told me that I could keep going since I wasn't breaking any laws. I was nice enough to stop, for the time being... It would have been a LOT easier for everyone involved if they'd have just walked up to me and ASKED me. Oh well.

I needed the cab corners from my old cab to finish up the 'new' cab, so it was time to pull off the bed. I had to cut the heads off the bolts in the bed, since they were pretty rusty. I managed to cut all 6 with very minimal colateral damage to the bed floor, Though I'll be doing a LOT of work on the bed so a little damage here and there isn't going to hurt much



Then, after finally getting the last two bolts out of the frame, back by the bumper (luckily they weren't rusted nearly as badly!), I lifted the bed off-



That gantry is the BEST $100.00 I've ever spent on a tool, for sure. It made the job super easy, even with only one person. Between the boats and the truck, I use it all the time!

Then, I set the bed down on a wheeled base-



The base was actually built for the last boat I restored- It held the hull while I rebuilt it. I built it so it would hold the bed, too- It makes it a lot easier to be able to wheel it around where I need it!

She looks a little different with a naked rear end!-



It is also going to be SO much easier to do the brakes, suspension, etc without having to crawl under this thing...

There was plenty of junk inside when I went to cut the corner off- Luckily, the brake fluid container was EMPTY. And, the whole 12 pack of bottle rockets was too wet to go off... That would have been a HELL of a surprise!

Oh- No one called the Sheriff on me today, So I guess it was a good day (so far!)

-Andrew
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #40  
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I was playing with photoshop the other day, and combined the 'elements' of a few different trucks to end up with the look I am going for. I used the base color from one truck, along with the bed rails, and then edited in the Two-Tone, and the 'factory' wheels that I've already got. The color wasn't my first choice- But it was my Wifes first choice- Got to keep her happy



I kind of want that old farm truck look- I think this pulls it off nicely
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 04:14 PM
  #41  
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From: placer county usa?
thats y i like 64'-65' foooord trucks a great look!!!
roy
 
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Old May 7, 2012 | 09:20 AM
  #42  
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I got the prep work on the cab done last week... All the paint stripped, rust removed, and sanded. Some of the really tough spots were spot blasted. Of course, I don't want to leave the bare metal any longer than I have to, so this morning, I got a coat of grey epoxy primer on-



There is a little body work to do, some small dings here and there. Most of them aren't even that noticeable, but I'll know that they are there, and it'll annoy me. I'm not going to try to get anything perfect- Just good enough... I want to be able to use this truck and not feel guilty about leaving it in a parking lot

-Andrew
 
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #43  
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Since i've got the bed off the frame, it's the perfect time to get some work done on the underside of it. It'll be MUCH more pleasant than crawling under the truck, for sure. First, Flip it up-



There is a lot of dirt, and a bit of rust down there.



I used the pressure washer to blast all the dirt off.

Next, I wanted to take care of the wheel wells. They were a bit banged up-



After a bit of work with a hammer from the bottom, The look pretty decent. Not perfect- But good enough! I plan to use a spray in bedliner, which will hide the little dings.



Then, I used the pressure washer on it all one more time. I used rust dissolver (naval jelly) on all the parts to remove the surface rust, and hit it one more time with the pressure washer. Then I primed it all, and put a couple of coats of undercoating on-





I didn't do anything with the center of the bed, since I'm going to be cutting it out and replacing it in the near future.

There is a little bit of work to do on the bed still- There are some holes to fill that someone drilled in the top, and a few dents and dings here and there, but there isn't really any rust to speak of. I wish I could have said the same for the cab

-Andrew
 
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #44  
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From: placer county usa?
good job andrew!
going to have to build a crane, thats nice also
your moving along fast
 
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Old May 11, 2012 | 04:07 AM
  #45  
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Great project and thanks for sharing!

Are there any good tutorials for removing the cab and bed? I'd like to see what I'm getting into before I attempt a project like this! Any idea what a cab and bed weigh?
 
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