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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Coolant issues

 
  #1  
Old 03-11-2012, 09:42 PM
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Coolant issues

I was drivin my 2006 F350 6.0 Crew cab long bed 4x4 today. Was at a red light and floored it all the way up to 55 (on a 50 mph road). Once the truck shifted into fifth gear, fluid started sparying all over the passenger side of my winshield. Didnt know what it was, so i turned on the winshield wipers and it smeared all over my winshield. At the point i was concerened cause it wasnt raining or anything and water just doesnt smear all over ur windshield. The fluid kept sprayin only on the passenger side of my winshield. about a minute later was i was still driving, my ECT/EOT went up ten degrees and smoke started coming out from under my hood. At that point, i knew this was an issue. Drove two miles to my work, parked it and looked under the hood. Coolant was all over the passenger side of my motor. So i crawled under my truck and coolants dripping from the passenger side of the radiator.


So question is... These arent symptoms of blowing a headgasket?



My temps never spiked, i never lost power, no codes where throwin and my degas bottle never puked and the truck still starts fine! Degas bottles empty, but didnt puke. I think its my radiator thats cracked or a hose that has a hole in it. What do you guys think??

Ill know more tomorow as it was to dark to start takin it apart
 
  #2  
Old 03-11-2012, 11:28 PM
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Check the EGR cooler hose also.
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-2012, 06:39 AM
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thanks mark! why do u say egr cooler hose? are they prone to breaking? Also wheres it located? any pics lol. there are alotta coolant hoses undr my hood haha
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:44 AM
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The old hoses are orange and prone to leakage. The hose is tucked away under the exhaust side of the turbo (passenger side), and under the turbo pedestal. I have pics in my albums. Will get you a link later (or feel free to "poke around" in there).
 
  #5  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:05 AM
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Lol, i looked around in ur album. Couldnt find anything of pics of hoses etc. So a link would be nice! So if this is the bad line, would i have to pull the turbo to replace it? And the lines orange?
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:22 AM
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:25 AM
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I haven't really cleaned up the write up - but I think you can get the idea ............

You don't need to remove turbo to change the EGR cooler hose.
Removal:
Drain engine coolant (2 gallons). For additional information, refer to Section 303-03. - DO THIS FIRST - IMPORTANT
Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe (HotSide pipe) - DO THIS SECOND - IMPORTANT
Remove the 2 T30 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing cover
Twist it so that the single index mark (located on the end of the hose that connects to the EGR cooler supply port housing) is up and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube (you can do this with it attached to the EGR cooler housing cover or you can stab a screwdriver through the old hose to help you twist it).
Rotate the oil-cooler-to-EGR-cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.
Installation:
Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube (with the single index mark up) far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Rotate it to make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.
Lubricate the EGR cooler housing cover supply port O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover on the engine. After positioning the EGR cooler supply port housing cover, install the 2 bolts.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as MatcoŽ BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts. Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler housing cover (supply port) and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.
Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

Some other things I wrote down:
One of the torx bolts is too close the turbo to allow T-30 socket to fit, even with a u joint, so you can use a T-30 hex bit wedged into a quarter inch ratcheting wrench. Make sure you secure the bit, because its a long way down into the valley. The port assembly can be a pita to get off, you may need the assistance of a small pry bar to free it. The port assembly is made out of aluminum so don't go torquing the heck out of it or you might break it or the riser pipe it rest on. The rest of the hose pulled right off the egr cooler nipple with a pair of pliers (easiest part of the whole job). To get the other end of the hose off the port assembly, turn the hose so the single index mark is faced up and pull straight off. Getting the hose end off the port assembly is a little tough and requires the used of a pair of pliers. Every post regarding this repair says to slide the new hose over the egr cooler nipple then install the port assembly and slide the hose over the port assembly... this may not work well. Getting the hose to slip on the port assembly may risking damage
to the 2 inch radiator hose if you aren't careful. So you can install the hose on the port assembly first ( with the two index marks facing up in the locked
position) then used a very small prybar to guide the hose onto the egr nipple and the port assembly should drop right in.
Spend the 9 bucks for new o-rings around port hub. It will most likely save you trouble later on.
 
  #8  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by i eat hybrids View Post
...... fluid started sparying all over the passenger side of my winshield. Didnt know what it was, so i turned on the winshield wipers and it smeared all over my winshield. At the point i was concerened cause it wasnt raining or anything and water just doesnt smear all over ur windshield. The fluid kept sprayin only on the passenger side of my winshield. about a minute later was i was still driving .....
Man you must be a seasoned 6.0L owner
I would **** my pants and have a heart attack if some unknown fluid just sprayed over my windshield from under the hood
Even today I will still check the water that drips on the passenger side when the a/c is running. I'm always wondering when I'll hit the next $1,000 repair jackpot
 
  #9  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:30 AM
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I haven't ever heard of the EGR hose spraying but I suppose anything is possible under pressure. They usually leak when cold. A leak will leave a little tattle tale trail, but yours sounds like is past that point. Check the top seam of the radiator.
 
  #10  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:40 AM
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Lol im gona put this as simple as possible. Pockets of air or "bubbles" were coming out of the top of my radiator. When i got under my truck, the fluid was dripping down the radiator. The "wetest" parts of my truck that were covered in the most coolant was my axle and everything that was near the radiator. Towards the back of the block bearly had any coolant on it. Prob just from coolant being sprayed back towards the block as i was doing 50 mph for 2 miles. So if the majority of the coolant is on my axle, towards the passeng side of the radiator, would that eliminate a EGR cooler hose? Cause if my EGR cooler hose was leaking combined with the wind of doing 50 mph for 2 miles, wouldnt my transmission and my eng block be covered in coolant since the EGR cooler is in the back of the motor and all.
 
  #11  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:59 AM
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lol sorry for the simple photo, but i am trying to be accurate as possible as radiators or coolant leaks aint covered under the 7 yr/200k Diesel engine care warrenty from fomoco.

But to be accurate as possbile, this is where it leaked the most. This isnt my motor, its a 6.0 in a bronco. But it was the clearest pic i could find of the radiator.



Number 2 Cicle, is where tiny bubbles/pockets of air where coming out of accross the seems of the top of the radiator.

Number 3 circle in that indent before the grille was were the most coolant collected at. With those to being said, would that look like an egr cooler hose issue?
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:02 AM
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Looks like someone might have damaged the top of the radiator while working on the engine.
Maybe placed a knee there to get in to the filters or turbo? I think I saw a recent post where someone did exactly that.
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:20 AM
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i put my powermax turbo in during the summer. do you think failure could take that long?
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:52 AM
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So, i worked on the truck this morning... Radiator is cracked in several places.


Now i get to do my third coolant change in 40,000 miles! hahah yay

Question is, i forget how much coolant a 6.0 holds. So how much coolant does she hold? Already have 2 premixed 50/50 1 gallon jugs of ford gold/distilled water.
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by i eat hybrids View Post
So, i worked on the truck this morning... Radiator is cracked in several places.


Now i get to do my third coolant change in 40,000 miles! hahah yay

Question is, i forget how much coolant a 6.0 holds. So how much coolant does she hold? Already have 2 premixed 50/50 1 gallon jugs of ford gold/distilled water.
System total 28.5 qts. Radiator change will be ~1/2 the total system capacity.
 

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