So what did you do to your 6.0L today?
Honestly you can follow guzzles wheel bearing replacement from his site. Then unbolt the plate and unhook the brake cable. I used hose clamps to hold the spring on the cable. That wasn't perfect but eased the tension....not just the spring but my nerves as well.
I did buy a dorman plate which came with the brake hold down clip.
My brake caliper locked up. Kinda lucky it did because I found this. The pads wore into the heads of the studs. ALL of them.
I don't have any helpful pics of the install other than the hose clamp. Just have before and after pics.
I did buy a dorman plate which came with the brake hold down clip.
My brake caliper locked up. Kinda lucky it did because I found this. The pads wore into the heads of the studs. ALL of them.
I don't have any helpful pics of the install other than the hose clamp. Just have before and after pics.
My assembly line plates lasted 5 years here in the Jersey conditions. I replaced with Ford stock but after doing some prep for the design the replacement set has lasted 10 years, although some people have reported better life out the replacements installing them as they were out of the box.
The design of the original and my replacement were a layered assembly, which leaves a space where water and whetted de-icer can reside. The foundation disc brake needed a typical splash shield, while the drum-in-hat parking brake shoes not only needed the support for the retaining pins, but the platforms for the shoes to ride on, which required more strength then the standard disc brake shield can provide. Rather then eat the cost of a thicker shield overall that would handle the duties, the parking brake supplier came up with a cost effective solution, a layered plate assembly, reinforcing the parking brake area two ply. It’s really a bad design.
When I replaced mine I did not believe I could effectively seal all of the locations where the lamination is exposed. When you look at rusted plates the two issues of erosion are around the pins which eventually pull through, and the sandwich area in the field. What I did was wet the laminated area first with LPS2 oil, then with LPS3, which is a thickening oil like BelRay chain oil, trying to prevent the moisture from entering, the second step was protecting the pin area that abraded the paint off.
Since we were also a supplier of brake pads to Honda, at the research site I had a tub of the thick grease that Honda’s use on the back of brake pads for noise abatement, Dow’s Molykote 77. This is a high viscosity silicone grease with moly that also Dow calls out as an assembly lube. I put it around the pin holes on the inside and outside, and then coated the pin area again on the outside once the brake was assembled.
Another method of trying to protect from moisture intrusion would be to use silicone caulk where you can at the edge of the laminate, then also cover the pin head and surround with silicone caulk to try to seal it from moisture. Or a hybrid of the two solutions sealing the plate and greasing the pin.
The design of the original and my replacement were a layered assembly, which leaves a space where water and whetted de-icer can reside. The foundation disc brake needed a typical splash shield, while the drum-in-hat parking brake shoes not only needed the support for the retaining pins, but the platforms for the shoes to ride on, which required more strength then the standard disc brake shield can provide. Rather then eat the cost of a thicker shield overall that would handle the duties, the parking brake supplier came up with a cost effective solution, a layered plate assembly, reinforcing the parking brake area two ply. It’s really a bad design.
When I replaced mine I did not believe I could effectively seal all of the locations where the lamination is exposed. When you look at rusted plates the two issues of erosion are around the pins which eventually pull through, and the sandwich area in the field. What I did was wet the laminated area first with LPS2 oil, then with LPS3, which is a thickening oil like BelRay chain oil, trying to prevent the moisture from entering, the second step was protecting the pin area that abraded the paint off.
Since we were also a supplier of brake pads to Honda, at the research site I had a tub of the thick grease that Honda’s use on the back of brake pads for noise abatement, Dow’s Molykote 77. This is a high viscosity silicone grease with moly that also Dow calls out as an assembly lube. I put it around the pin holes on the inside and outside, and then coated the pin area again on the outside once the brake was assembled.
Another method of trying to protect from moisture intrusion would be to use silicone caulk where you can at the edge of the laminate, then also cover the pin head and surround with silicone caulk to try to seal it from moisture. Or a hybrid of the two solutions sealing the plate and greasing the pin.
Originally Posted by Sparky83
Wasnt today but yesterday my 6 tired 1 ton got some air time when I miscalculated the incline of an entrance of a parking lot while rabbiting across 4 lane road at WOT to beat the oncoming traffic moving at 55-60 mph..
was kinda an oopsie moment..
was kinda an oopsie moment..
I like the looks of the one from BPD. All-Aluminum Radiator Ford Power Stroke Diesel 6.0
How ever that said you can get a god one that may also be the same place that makes them for BPD from
Petformance Radiator in Seattle for a heck of a lot less Item #2681 @ $158.00 I would double check the price and part number before ordering.
I was planning on having a look one day in the next few weeks. They also have them in stock at the Tacoma location.
How ever that said you can get a god one that may also be the same place that makes them for BPD from
Petformance Radiator in Seattle for a heck of a lot less Item #2681 @ $158.00 I would double check the price and part number before ordering.
I was planning on having a look one day in the next few weeks. They also have them in stock at the Tacoma location.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-0L-T...-/111704376712
I watched the video Ron did on removing the radiator. He noted that the ‘05+ trucks have quick disconnects for the trans cooler and the older ones had threaded connections. Most of the radiators I’ve seen say 03-07. Is the QD fitting threaded into the radiator and swapped over to the new one?