Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
#1
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
I plan to be using some stainless steel rods to make something soon. I've got some questions I hope some of you might be able to answer:
1) Does it matter what type of stainless steel I use?
(Just like there are different grades of carbon steel, I see there are different types of stainless steel as well.)
2) Should I cold bend it or heat it up before bending it?
(I'll probably be bending a tight radius circle or make a 90 degree angle on one end.)
3) Going back to question one, what type works best for cutting threads on it? (I'll be using my tap-n-die set to make threads on it.)
4) Going back to question one, does one type of SS give better luster after polishing than others? (I plan to polish the piece after I'm done machining.)
Thanks!
1) Does it matter what type of stainless steel I use?
(Just like there are different grades of carbon steel, I see there are different types of stainless steel as well.)
2) Should I cold bend it or heat it up before bending it?
(I'll probably be bending a tight radius circle or make a 90 degree angle on one end.)
3) Going back to question one, what type works best for cutting threads on it? (I'll be using my tap-n-die set to make threads on it.)
4) Going back to question one, does one type of SS give better luster after polishing than others? (I plan to polish the piece after I'm done machining.)
Thanks!
#2
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
Im a union ironworker,i deal with stainless all the time,if you heat n bend,good possibility you will get cracks in the bend,if you just bend it,you will need a powerfull hydraulic bend,stainless is very strong,316,309,all of it polishes about the same,i work alot of nuclear power plant projects,they like "everything" to look high quality,we polish alot of stainless projects,i use a sanding disk on a 4 1/2" grinder first to remove any mill scale,then go with lighter grit on a sander over n over & lighter n lighter till it looks smooth,then high speed buffing pads with good quality rubbing compounds from heavy to light,then polish,alot of work involved but well worth it when done.
As for tap n die,i use any good type of tap n die set,just be carefull not to break it since stainless is alot tougher than carbon,take your time with it.use lots of cutting oil,dont be shy with it
As for tap n die,i use any good type of tap n die set,just be carefull not to break it since stainless is alot tougher than carbon,take your time with it.use lots of cutting oil,dont be shy with it
Last edited by FordCwazyGuy; 04-27-2003 at 09:18 AM.
#4
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
I think I'll be using 304 Stainless steel rod that is 5/16" diameter. Can I hammer the end flat without hurting the integrity or the tensile strength?
If I want 3/8"-24 threads on the rod, should I use a 3/8" or 5/16" diameter rod?
If I want 3/8"-24 threads on the rod, should I use a 3/8" or 5/16" diameter rod?
Last edited by cigarxtc; 04-29-2003 at 01:43 PM.
#5
#6
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
I just thought I would jump in here with my 2-cents worth. Stainless is strong but if you make it into a bolt and apply heavy pressure the threads can gall. Be advised to keep a small film of grease on the threads to keep this dealstopper from happening to you. By the way, I'm guessing that you are making some new support rods that run from the firewall out to the corners. Am I right. Good luck, John
#7
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
Thanks for the advise, John. Yer right about ss being strong!!! It takes a lot of muscle to put threads on 3/8" ss rod! It also takes a lot of cutting fluid. It seems to be working. I just need to take my time. I also learned that a taper on the end of the rod helps to get it started, and that it helps if the rod is thinned a little where ever you want the threads.
What do you mean by "gall" and "grease on the threads"?
What do you mean by "gall" and "grease on the threads"?
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#8
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
Galled threaded look like they have melted. It happened to me when using a ss bolt and nut on a water line repair clamp. The first tighening process was OK because there was some grease on the threads put there by the manufacturer. However, we had to take the clamp back off to reposition it. The act of removing the thread grease was enough. When we retightened the bolt it just started turning freely. The threads looked like they were ground off. I think "fenders" is familiar with stainless and also promotes the use of grease on the threads. Good luck, John
#9
Questions about Working With Stainless Steel
sorry i havent replyed in a while,been real busy here at home doing a project,sounds like your well on your way,your right John,stainless steel threaded is a nightmare at times,use grease,but,only problem is with stainless bolts or nuts,once it is apllied torque,99% of the time you need to replace the bolts,stainless steel downfall,if you use stainless in a position like you are doing & dont ever need to take it apart again,its a good idea for stainless but hope you never have to take them off,in due time,the stainless bolts "deform" with pressure on them,"anytime" we take something apart that has stainless bolts,they go directlly to the trash bin & replaced with new. also,remember this rule,"if stainless steel comes in contact with carbon steel,it will rust,"so ,try to make sure anywhere you have the rod contacting carbon,put a good type of "strong" epoxy paint of somewhat on the carbon to protect the stainless from "contaminated stains"
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