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front brake issues, still

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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
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triple8
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front brake issues, still

I have a 2005 F150 4x4, with just over 75K, and I have owned it from new. I am having left front brake issues. The left front brake seems to drag, but of course does not do it consistentally or after a given type of braking event. It just does it very randomly. I originally replaced the caplier pins thinking one may have been hanging up. It seemed to fix the issue for a couple months then it happened again. So doing more inquiry it seems some have had issues with the front rubber lines.

I just had both front lines replaced with OEM Ford parts and the system flushed out at a dealer. The brakes again seemed to work fine driving home from the dealer anto work today. Then on the way home it did it again, started dragging. The truck starts to feel sluggish while accelerating and slows very quickly just lifting off the gas. then when you get out you feel the wheel and it is very HOT and you can hear a heat popping sound. (First time it happened it was smoking it got so hot.) Right side seemsfine.

NEED HELP!!!!

Sinceit does it so randomly I am at a loss. I can not just drop it off at the dealer and say drive it until it.

I am considering having the caliper replaced, which I really considered when it was at the dealer for the hoses since I had the IWE's done at the same time, so they were off.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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put calipers on it. mine hung up last summer. there is a way to diagnose it, but ive seen a handful of the cal's needing replaced. pretty common problem on our trucks. im surprised the dealer didnt suggest the caliper over the hoses and hubs...
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:08 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by kaerch
put calipers on it. mine hung up last summer. there is a way to diagnose it, but ive seen a handful of the cal's needing replaced. pretty common problem on our trucks. im surprised the dealer didnt suggest the caliper over the hoses and hubs...
Yep my dad's 04 did the ecxact same thing. The front left caliper seized up and would drag on the rotor. Replace the caliper and it will be like new.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:40 AM
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Thanks for the feed back. I will get a caliper ordered.

As for the hubs and hoses. I had a couple issues going on, I was attempting to self diagnois. One was the brake the other the IWE or IWE's chattering. With IWE issue I started with the solenoid on the firewall. I replaced it and it did not fix the issue, so I went to the actual hubs. IWE issue now seems to be resolved. For the brake issue there were quite a few that had had hose issues so I figured I would start there. I should have just bought the caliper and replaced it at the same time.

I also had grand plans of doing the work myself, just never found the free time so I took it to a dealer and asked them to replace what I had purchased.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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I always replace hoses and calipers at the same time.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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This is off the OP some but was wondering if a vibration in your brakes when slowing down is similar or if that is the rotors starting to warp?

I know the warping is common on brakes that have been turned once and mine are starting to get close to the time of needing work again. The last maintenance on my brakes was at about 50k and I am at about 83k now so figure I have a bit more on them for the moment.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Coskid
This is off the OP some but was wondering if a vibration in your brakes when slowing down is similar or if that is the rotors starting to warp?

I know the warping is common on brakes that have been turned once and mine are starting to get close to the time of needing work again. The last maintenance on my brakes was at about 50k and I am at about 83k now so figure I have a bit more on them for the moment.
Have you checked the runout with a dial gauge?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudeman
Have you checked the runout with a dial gauge?

No I haven't I have only just started to notice so to be honest I have not done anything yet. Brakes are something I don't know much about so figured I would ask if anyone had an idea.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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If you have a decent repair manual, it will detail the procedure for checking disc runout. If they are grooved or otherwise worn to near limit, I would just replace them.

Mine started to behave like yours. I would have checked them with a dial gauge but I noticed a deep groove in one of them so ijust replaced the rotors and pads. I just went to Auto Zone and bought the Duralast rotors. I originally planned to use high performance after markets, either slotted or cross-drilled, but I was in a crunch for time and couldn't wait for them to arrive special order. I did go with ceramic pads.

There are mixed reviews on the use of ceramic pads but I like them. I've been using them as replacements for the metallics for several years, first in my Chevy, and now in the Ford. I used them in my son's Taurus and the wife's Windstar. I have no complaints at all.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Yeah I figured when it was time to do some brake work I was just going to replace them so that was already in my plan.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by critterf1
I always replace hoses and calipers at the same time.
Replacing hoses at the same time as replacement of calipers is a waste of time/money. Why replace something that isn't causing problems? As far as the brake problem, I work at a tire shop and first thing I would have recommended was replacing calipers. The defective caliper is usually a defect in the caliper itself and should have nothing to do with your brake lines. Correct me if I'm wrong, but replacing your calipers WILL solve your problem.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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I wouldn't piece meal the front break repair. You have a brake hanging up. You have high mileage and town/city stop and go? Rotors, callipers, pads all the way. Your brakes aren't working smooth all the time, just needing pads. Their malfunctioning and on slick wet road a panic stop will mess you up.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #13  
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Usually if my rotors are grooved bad ill replace them, I will rarely turn a rotor because they warp easier and for the cost of a pair of new ones it is cheap insurance. As for a hanging brake i will just replace the calipers and pads unless the rotor looks bad then ill replace the rotor also. When u take your vehicle to a shop they almost allways turn the rotor....I dont like that because they are thinner (although i know its only 0.020 or 0.030 per side) but the heat disapation you loose, i think its better to replace the rotor. just my 2 cents worth.

Ken

2008 F150 FX4
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by triple8
Thanks for the feed back. I will get a caliper ordered.

As for the hubs and hoses. I had a couple issues going on, I was attempting to self diagnois. One was the brake the other the IWE or IWE's chattering. With IWE issue I started with the solenoid on the firewall. I replaced it and it did not fix the issue, so I went to the actual hubs. IWE issue now seems to be resolved. For the brake issue there were quite a few that had had hose issues so I figured I would start there. I should have just bought the caliper and replaced it at the same time.

I also had grand plans of doing the work myself, just never found the free time so I took it to a dealer and asked them to replace what I had purchased.
I never had any luck changeing 1 caliber as the other one always seems to go bad shortly after. like changing 1 rotor not good.
change both calibers and pads if they got that hot they where smoking.Good luck
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #15  
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From: At the Beach
Would definitely replace that caliper/hose/rotor, if it got smoking hot there's probably more damage now than just a sticking piston.
 
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