since everyone else has one, at least I'll be able to post for my own personal log.


Just bought an Accel coil and Accel wires to replace my junk MSD coil and junk Ford Racing wires, hoping Accel matches their reputation as a decent brand! I'll know in a few days when they get here

Other mods already done:

Redhead steering box
Saginaw PS pump
TRE flip
35'' BFG MTs
B&W Tranny pan
Ford Racing Valve Covers
3G Alternator
Thrush Turbo Muffler(lol, my favorite mod! $25!)
Magnaflow Y
Mix of $200 worth of Dynamat and $40 worth of Peal and Seal throughout the entire truck, the Dynamat was a waste of money

6.5'' Polk Components in the door, plus 5.25'' Polks in the door, plus 6x9 polks in the rear, plus a 10'' polk sub in the back with a 600w RMS pioneer powering the polk sub and 300W to power the front 6.5'' components, with polk tweeters in the dash.

hundreds of items replaced and fixed and modded, of course

 

Bronco started running better after the coils and wires, but suddenly I have a half dozen KEOEs, 3 CMs and a dozen KOERs?

I think I either stepped on my harness while plugging in my coil ,or my computer finally crapped out. Truck is running good in closed loop or with pre-set timing/fuel/air but .. still, this sucks. WTB Computer and harness please?

ECT, ACT, EGR, O2 sensor just for KOEO, lean and rich and thermactor CM and.. man, like Bender would say, I'm boned.

 

I shall follow this with an iron fist , though i would think if the computer pooped out the truck wouldn't start right? So it might be the ground idea you had. I am not familiar with the computer systems but i will try throwing random ideas till one of them does something useful.

 

yeah, fixed it, I had pulled a ground wire leading to the computer, I think? either way, I redid a ground wire, double checked that the sensors were plugged in all the way and everything seems okay. Throwing an MLPS code (every time I go in water, EVERY TIME!) and now a EGR Sensor code again, these two are reoccuring and both are driving me insane!

I will say, The MSD Streetfire coil I had was garbage, put my old coil back in, then tried the street fire again, still garbage. 220k and my old coil was showing 7.5k OHMs secondary, the Streetfire was showing 3k OHMs with only 1k miles on it? Yeah, done with MSD forever!
I bought an Accel with some CHEAP Accel plug wires and the quality has blown me away, tossed my old Ford Racing wires in the garbage! With my old wires I accidentally pressed two of them on too tightly and.. broke them somehow? When I pulled them off to swap in the Accels some of the boots came off. They were just terrible!


Well, to add, today I:

Changed bearings on my alternator, finally, was tired of 'repacking' them.

Changed my alternator pulley, apparently the 2 1/4'' is stock since it was the same size as my old one, but my old one was all bent up and not pretty like my new one! I wish I had bought the 2 1/2'' as I think it's pulley and my saginaw pulley that are causing some belt issues for me.

Got a proper harness from RJM for my alternator, boot, 90 degree stud and really, really cleaned it all up, I love it.

Also plugged in my RJM headlight harness. The harness confuses me, I pictured it with mounting the relays on the fender, but the relays and fuses ended up in front of the battery because of wire length. Just shoved them behind the headlight and it's good enough for now, I'll tie them down later. Seriously impressed with the quality though!

RJM took a month to get my order here, they wouldn't answer E-Mails or phone calls, I had no clue if they were ever going to send the stuff! I will say, however, that when it got here I didn't care at all! This stuff kills in quality! I don't regret buying from RJM at all.. I have a feeling it was the harness that held the order up. He uses weatherpack plugs, which are amazing. Every wire, connector and terminal beat stock Ford in quality, nice change considering most parts I buy (even Motorcraft) aren't as good as the parts I'm replacing.


Uh, my belt squeak is back. This time is sounds terrible and it definitely slips when I have my wheels at full lock. I think I'm going to have to go with a belt an inch shorter, 3G + Saginaw + stock pulley + racing balancer I think are just too much for the stock tensioner (or err, Duralast tensioner) and stock belt size. Tensioner is in the proper range, but my gut is just telling me that with these two accessories I need more tension.

Again, can't stress this enough, those RJM harnesses are insanely good! My headlights are much, much brighter.. now my dims look like brights, and my brights look like HIDs!

 

Hmm i might have to look into this wiring, is it a whole wiring kit or do you splice it into the existing wiring? My tailights and turn signal wires are all chopped so i have to go and re-splice them. But i don't really want to re-do the entire wiring lines.

 

hey errors for ur mpls check if there are any wires with the wires showing( same thing happened to me) i found some badass liquid electrical tape that fixed my problem

 

Greusom, it's just a headlight harness.. uses stock power from headlights to power relays to give your headlights straight battery power, bypassing the headlight switch. Brightens them up and adds to reliability, great upgrade.

I think I figured out my MLPS issue.. my backup lights, the 'fog lights' I added for them, I did them a long time ago and one of the wires were frayed and were definitely grounding out on my my bumper, I think it was shorting the MLPS for backup lights.. at least, I hope that's what's happening. Technically it shouldn't affect anything BUT the reverse circuit, so honestly I think I'm dealing with that issue killing the backup/reverse circuit, and cheap Tawainese garbage killing the rest of it. Doing a search on the net shows I'm not the first guy that has gone through a dozen safety switches outside of Motorcraft (which apparently have ALSO changed manufacturers!)

Such a basic, simple sensor/device .. grr, drives me nuts.

Also, as I suspected, the belt squeaks went away. New issue, drove over some .. 3' high obstacles.. and now I'm getting a creak and clunk in my front end when I turn, I think I've loosened a few nuts and bolts again and tomorrow am gonna check it out

 

Man ErrorS, your name really does ring true. I too don't have reverse lights but mine would only serve to tel people i am backing up. If you can see my big hunk of **** backing up then you shouldn't be driving. I had always wanted to put some PIAA type driving lights on my rear bumper to help see when i'm backing up but i figured i didn't really need them.

 

Oh man, I have to have reverse lights.. you have to understand, I started out as a fisherman in a CRV, then graduated to a .. well, obsessive fisherman in a Bronco in the middle of Indiana. Within 60 miles I can tell you of 100 state owned lakes, probably 10 times that which are privately owned. My sport is catfish, which are nocturnal.. backing out of a quarter mile drive that leads into a lake in the middle of the night with a dropoff of 5' on either side? backup lights are not an option for me!

I'm one of those guys who believe no amount of lighting is ever enough lighting.. and it really is a function thing, I couldn't care less about how people view me.. but when I'm out hunting for a good Flathead, I have to be able to see 20' below the water at that log pile to know if I'm gonna waste 6 hours holding a Bluegill on a line there, and I also have to be able to back out of a spot no wider than my Bronco without running into a river or creek or lake on either side.. it just comes with the territory

 

Ya i spose light would help there... I think if i HAD to get some they would be more for 4 wheeling and the ability to see the trees behind and in front and beside me. I am not much for fishing, i used to like it when i visited Hawaii to see my dad but i got tired of sitting there waiting. I was too restless to wait for the fish to decide to bite.

 

Man, when it rains it pours.. went to start my truck last night and CLICK. Jumped the terminals on the solenoid, nothing, ran the cable directly to the battery, nada!

So seems like the starter is dead.. also noticed the cable had 0 resistance to ground though, so it could just be a bad cable, gonna pull it all anyways to check it.. fun fun fun

 

Ooooo that sucks... I hate pulling my starter, the thing is like 40 lbs and a pain to hold and tighten the bolts. I noticed when my truck started having those issues, my ground cable had been worn through and hitting the metal alternator bracket... This confused me cause it is grounded there already.

BUT i noticed the clamp side was a replacement clamp that the cable inards bolt into. This clamp is garbage and was not giving a good connection, i ended up replacing the starter and the cable. The starter got replaced cause it seemed like when it got hot it was cranking real hard and would get stopped up and act weird plus there was a few chipped teeth. Then i noticed when i pulled it that it was a junk yard starter, it had the chalk writing and everything. But it was from a 460 so it wasn't even technically for my motor.

 

I was going to replace the cable but it looked better than I thought it would, so kept it.

When I took the old one in, it tested fine in every step! I was sorta ticked because I had JUST tested it directly on my battery without it working! Oh well.. the new one went in and worked perfectly right away. Noticed the old one was a reman, ended up buying a reman but it has a lifetime warranty so I'm alright with it.

 

I think mine is a lifetime warranty but i'm not sure.

 

Well, another nice new problem.. popped out a rear crossmember rivet about a week ago, didn't consider it a huge deal, but just today lost that one closest to my steering box. I know this is just the start of this issue, posted about it a while back.. anyways, gonna go out and try to remove that rivet by my box, then drop a bolt in my rear crossmember.

EVery time I do something to tighten my chassis something else pops. It's about time for some scrap steel and my welder to get this thing tight!