7psi at 750 egts is nice and safe, leaks make a big difference

yes, punch holes in that baffle under the valley pan...needs it to drain all the extra oil or it will leak like crazy and the valley drains down the back of the block so it would appear its coming from another location. if your cdr is fully functional (going threw the intake) it shouldn't be blowing out the seals like a RDT that isnt venting enough or properly would

 

That explains it!!! Do I punch holes through the hole where the pedistal and oil return go down through valley pan?? I think im understanding correctly, and I would think that a vacuum on the cdr would be better than a rdt as well ...right ? what still boggles me is the fact I drove the truck about 10 miles with a barely drip ..i think,it was dry when I got therewhat appeared out the rear main... then after i cleaned it about 2 miles down the road all oil blowed out again ? Something else I just thought of... I never mentioned before I got some boost and all this oil started blowing out.. I had put the turbo kit on at a buddies house 120 miles away and driving home is where i could only get 3 1/2 psi back earlier in this thread.. how come in all those miles the oil never blew out ??? is it because there wasnt much boost??? the oil blew out on me last 2-3 times with hardly any boost ..so now im confused again.

 

yes where the oil return goes, while your back there check out the rear of the valley pan gasket and make sure its not leaking anywhere along there. so you think you are blowing boost into your crankcase? maybe past rings?

i wish i had a leak that would keep leaking....i have an oil leak, t-case leak, front axle leak and it all happens for like 2 days then disappear for the next month, very frustrating when your trying to get everything all sealed up.

try punching the holes and setting up the cdr then let us know if your still blowing oil

 

Is your Dipstick getting pushed out ???
Does it normally pull out easy ???

I would verify the crankcase pressure under boost before pulling it apart ...
Just to be sure you are not leaking boost into the crankcase.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

dipstick does not blow out and it don't move free either. I got the turbo from gonecrazy and he said it was good on his trk... I would think that putting holes in valley pan to let oil drain would solve prob.. Engine never had blow by before it only has 131k on it. Would I have to remove intake, pump,ect to change v pan gasket?

 

Yes, you need to pull the intake to replace the VP, but not to poke the drain holes.

This is not a Failed Turbo issue ... It appears to be a crankcase pressure issue.

The reason I asked about the dipstick is if you have excessive crankcase pressure it might blow it out, but if it's stuck in pretty good it may not.

Jury rig a low pressure gauge to your dip stick tube so you can see the Crankcase pressure under boost. You only need (and want) a gauge that covers your boost pressure ... ~10lbs

You should see very little if any crankcase pressure.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

well I sure hope its not my rings.. i actually have a hard time believing it would be.. this engine didnt have any leaks at all before turboing her up.. I followed my tracks from yesterday and there is massive oil trails where i was under power (more where uphill)AND where i know clearly i was NOT under power.. one spot (on the flat)was about 30 feet before a stop sign as an example. i though of a way i could check crankcase pressure i think.. ive got a boost gauge thats reads 0-20 ..i still have the extra adaptors, I could adapt that up to fit in a hose and clamp it then slide hose over dipstick tube.. only thing i am worried about is if its blowing out top of valley pan and not the v pan gasket already ..i dont want to run anymore and possibly blow a v pan gasket by keep on running it.. it seems to only make sense since i didnt punch any holes at all in valley pan cdr hole for turbo oil return. Also one more thing about the blowby.... this thing has never burnt a drop of oil.. meaning i have never had to add any oil between oil changes and like i said ,she only has 131k on her. THE part that does point toward crankcase pressure though is the part that i drove 120 miles home with NO oil leaks .. but no boost either.. i had to push her extremely hard to get 3 1/2 psi and it was only for short periods... thats why i was asking before about the turbo if its not spooling up very much does it return oil at the same rate as it does when it is spooled up (high turbo rpm) ??? if there is no difference in oil return rate then yes i believe it could possibly be major blowby under boost... oh and one more thing i thought of.... yesterday when i drove it to my job (about 10 miles) and it didnt leak at all--- the oil temp was at 140-150 deg.. i know because i added a oil temp gauge and i waited till it got that hot before i left on purpose thinking it will leak easier with hot thinner oil-- all the other times when it has blowed out the oil was under or around 100 deg.. because it had a long time to cool while i pressure washed everything and then left and within 2 miles blowed all out again........ reason i thought of this today is could it be possible that the hot thinner oil could drain back down faster thus not flood below the return in the valley pan??? resulting in not blowing out that 10 miles.. keep in mind its the same road both ways up and down hills... no oil leaks going and extreme oil leaks coming back.???!!!?

 

Ok UPDATE ! Need some more advise...... well I have figured out several things.. I forgot that i had changed cdr's .. 1st time oil blew out i had put a hose in the cdr down to the ground thus not eliminating the cdr.. 2nd time it blew out i had just pressurewashed it and the cdr got water in it.. i changed back to an old one along the road and made it home.. ive recapped everything over last few days and realized this.. Festus I took your advise today and rigged up a gauge on the dipstick--- barely1 psi in crankcase at about 4 + psi boost so my rings have got to be good... NOW I just got the turbo off and looked down the return hole (old NA cdr hole) and it is almost full of oil about 1/8 inch below rim... ??? i know i didnt have drain holes punched but should it be that high??? and my grommet tore in half and bottm half is in pan out of reach.. would i have to worry about the rest of that grommet getting down below v-pan if i cant fish it out???

 

this is the valley pan from a 94 factory turbo 7.3, notice the drains on the side, pretty high up.

not sure if the NA pan had the 2 bottom holes but the more holes the better.

it can be a PITA to find another grommet and if your gasket is leaking might just be better off replacing it and staring off with holes punched/drilled in the bottom from the get go

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Well for anyone reading this thread Ive gotten alot of learning experience from all this and have some things to pass on as to what can happen when you dont punch the holes out for the oil return... all these problems could have been avoided had i punched them... the reason it did not leak for the first 120 miles and that little 10 mile drive is because a piece of the grommet (I had forgot about) that got broke while removing the cdr was floating around to begin with then later it was getting stuck in one of the small vapor holes in the valley pan leading to even more restriction and thus backing up the oil and blowing it out .. and blowing it out at a high rate ! Over the weekend i got turbo off and got holes punched and all back together everything lined up probably better than first time... she runs great and Im pretty lucky i didnt rupture anything up top... got all the exhaust sealed up and got 7 psi and about 750 egts with a light black puff between shifts ... thank the Lord ! I can rest easy now!

 

Awesome, Hope I don't have that issue ... I didn't poke mine when I put my 91 motor in my 94, forgot.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

bnd74, what was the cause of the low boost? was it the exhaust leaks or the valley pan issue?

 

It was the exhaust leaks and at the snail.... the uppipe where the crossover bolts and at the bottom of the snail at the gasket had blowed out... what I did there was take a ziptie and compress the snail seal till i got it all the way tight ... my breather gasket is what i used and it was stretched out a little but the ziptie deal worked !! I hit 7 1/5 psi this morning pulling the camper... i couldnt be happier on how much difference this turbo made on my motor.... Ive got some crankcase gases leaking from front of valley pan now and didnt before but at least it aint oil ... I can deal with it and fix it later. Are you having issues like I did?

 

i am having a LOW boost issue. i am starting to think my turbo is in need of help.

Turning up fuel

 

It might be if you dont have any leaks... Just make positive you dont have any leaks, I was pretty sure I didnt but i was wrong... really wrong.. But I was so used to my truck being loud when it was NA that I didnt realize how quiet it was supposed to be even straight piped... you on the other hand would probably know the difference if yours has been turboed ... Sorry im not much help