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Injector sealing problem

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 07:46 PM
  #16  
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zhilton
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From: Claremore, OK
Benny, I'm wondering the same thing about the fuel pressure. If the thread holes are good and everything is torqued to spec...you almost think it would either have to be high fuel pressure (over 100 psi) or bad injector cups. It would be something rare indeed. Might want to stick a fuel pressure gauge on the side of the secondary filter housing (the thread is M12x1.5) and confirm what your fuel pressure is.
Originally Posted by jedlane8870
thats where the bad luck comes, what are the odds that 1 of the 2 new heads i bought from ford could have a tolerence issue.
Anything is possible...do you have some kind of warranty on those heads?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 08:39 PM
  #17  
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I will do, i just dont understand why the copper seal has failed to seal the same injector bore twice i dont think the orings fail until the combustion gases start acting on them. The injector bore and the injector will be black from the bottom oring down. I took some pictures and will try to post a couple.
 

Last edited by jedlane8870; Mar 4, 2012 at 08:45 PM. Reason: mispell
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jedlane8870
I will do, i just dont understand why the copper seal has failed to seal the same injector bore twice i dont think the orings fail until the combustion gases start acting on them.
Those o-rings can't take the heat & pressure. Here's a thought...have you checked to make sure there isn't a copper washer stuck at the bottom of the injector cup? It would skew the torque numbers.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #19  
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twice the copper seal has vanished
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:55 PM
  #20  
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I just wonder if theres an issue with the injector hold down or the Bolt hole/threads on the hold down bolt/hole causing the hold down/bolt to acheive Torq spec before it seats the injector properly.

I would be trying a NEW injector hold down and then check for any play in the injector after its been torqed

After you go the rounds with it again and run it a minute or so when its purged the air out the system I would look into the upper fuel filter housing see if you can see air bubles working there way out,or even a Ballon test to verify combustion gas escaping
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jedlane8870
twice the copper seal has vanished
Where are they going? That copper gasket/seal should be there when you pull the injector out. If it's not on the injector tip or in the bottom of the cup....the engine is bouncing it around in the cylinder before shooting it out the exhaust. NOT GOOD!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #22  
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The hole in the injector cup is to small for the Copper Washer to fall in there especialy with the tip of the injector sticking threw it.

IMO the coppper washer is getting Burned up since its not sealing.

Wonder if the first time you put the injectors in the new Head if it didnt get torqed right maybe junk in the bolt hole so it acheived torq before it was seated. I would check that injector cup really close there might be some copper washer junk still there not letting it seal.

I blew all holddown bolt holes with compressed air before the install.

The injector not sealing on the copper washer just about has to be a hold down issue or bolt/torq issue or Injector cup issue.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #23  
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how do you properly clean out one of the cups. my cli 1 is leaking. since I was changing the ip some fuel went down the side of the injector and as i was turning it over it was getting blown back out so i know its not sealing in my case. i got it used so i cant vouch for whats below the seal i brought up. its supposed to be a reman moter with 30k on it. Im suspecting things got dirty down there.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 09:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kendrick
how do you properly clean out one of the cups. my cli 1 is leaking. since I was changing the ip some fuel went down the side of the injector and as i was turning it over it was getting blown back out so i know its not sealing in my case.
Compressed air will work quite well. If your hold down bolt holes are clean the and your torque the hold down to 26-28 Ft/Ibs you should be getting good sealing on the injectors. You should be able to shine a light into #1 to make sure there isn't anything in the injector cup. If your were dealing with #7 or #8...I could understand, they're not exactly out in the open.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #25  
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might be a good Idea to check the FPR make shure its not over 70-75psi

And ALWAY rering each injector thats Pulled

Yours almost sounds like an inject stuck on

You say it blown Fuel back out (out of where???)
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #26  
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from around the threads. I was having a heck of a time with the rings and the fuel on 3 of em kept leaking down. on #1 as i turned it over the first time to get it going the extra that dribbled on 1 would get pushed back out it was enough to notice.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #27  
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Leaked out the threads Im Lost sorrey

where does the fuel leak the Valve Cover area???
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #28  
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see picture "apply never seeze to threads" IDI Fuel Injection Serviceing when the injector is bolted in I originally had some issues with the rubber rings at the top which let some fuel dribble down and collect where the threads meet the engine. just above where they put the antiseze it would blow enough cranking over to cause either bubbles or splatter i cant rmember off hand.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Kendrick
see picture "apply never seeze to threads" IDI Fuel Injection Serviceing when the injector is bolted in I originally had some issues with the rubber rings at the top which let some fuel dribble down and collect where the threads meet the engine. it would blow enough cranking over to cause either bubbles or splatter i cant rmember off hand.


LOL Im with ya now


This is the 6.0L Forum

Your working on a 7.3L

Theres No Threads on a 6.0L Inject
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jedlane8870
Sorry about the confusion i swapped locations of the hold downs (1to4 & 2to3), I manage a small shop in a small town thought i got a good deal on a nice truck. I repaced the heads because fuel was getting in the coolant and it ran bad when cold so i changed the injectors and the heads at the same time and did the other updates reccomended for this engine.
it's a shot in the dark, and you will need to make sure that you don't
get any shavings in the engine, plastic drape everything and just make one
little hole at a time per bolt...... cut a little slit in the plastic, and use
2" wide vinyl tape to seal the hole you are doing, and then cut the
tape away with a razorblade, leaving the tape to seal around it,
leaving only the thread you are working on exposed.

get a bottoming tap, of the correct thread pitch, and chase the threads
all the way down to the bottom, blowing the chips and whatnot out
with a cleaning spray... i'd use birchwood casey gun cleaner... flush
the hole out, and blow dry, then lube the bolt with anti sieze, so you
get a good torgue reading. bottoming taps have no tapered starting
threads, you use them to cut a full thread all the way to the bottom
of a blind hole.

and lose the aftermarket injectors... you have one of those leak
badly quickly, and hydrolock under load, you are gonna break
something 'spensive.
 
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