Cross Threaded injectors
#1
Cross Threaded injectors
I believe I may have cross threaded one of my injectors haven't removed it yet. I was thinking I would find a die first. I was checking an old injected for thread size with my calipers and it appears to me the threads on the end where you screw the fuel lines on is a 12X1.75 metric thread can anyone confirm that? thanks for the help
#2
So it's the end where the line hooks up that you think is messed up, right? Easier/better solution may be to install a new injector. People usually recommend doing the whole set, but if the others are in good shape, you might be ok. Of course, this assumes it's the threads on the injector that are boogered and not the ones on the line.
My guess on the thread size is that it'll be a pipe thread size, but I'll defer that to more knowledgeable members.
Mike
My guess on the thread size is that it'll be a pipe thread size, but I'll defer that to more knowledgeable members.
Mike
#3
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One thing people with cross-threaded injectors could do, is swap the top half of the injector body with an old, but good piece.
Granted this requires you to have a pop tester and some shims to properly set the pressure, but its easy to disassemble an injector, and the wear items are the nozzle and pintle in the bottom half of the injector which would all stay in bottom half of the injector body (all new from the new cross-threaded injector).
I hope that makes sense...
Granted this requires you to have a pop tester and some shims to properly set the pressure, but its easy to disassemble an injector, and the wear items are the nozzle and pintle in the bottom half of the injector which would all stay in bottom half of the injector body (all new from the new cross-threaded injector).
I hope that makes sense...
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#8
It makes sense to me but still over my head as a novice, I'm hoping to be able to resolve this with my own little pee brain but thats good info all the same. I think I will try running a die over the thread and move it to the front so if it doesn't work it will be easier to access. Do you think I have a shot at getting lucky on this simple solution :-)
#9
One thing people with cross-threaded injectors could do, is swap the top half of the injector body with an old, but good piece.
Granted this requires you to have a pop tester and some shims to properly set the pressure, but its easy to disassemble an injector, and the wear items are the nozzle and pintle in the bottom half of the injector which would all stay in bottom half of the injector body (all new from the new cross-threaded injector).
I hope that makes sense...
Granted this requires you to have a pop tester and some shims to properly set the pressure, but its easy to disassemble an injector, and the wear items are the nozzle and pintle in the bottom half of the injector which would all stay in bottom half of the injector body (all new from the new cross-threaded injector).
I hope that makes sense...
Kentwa, don't get rid of the cross-threaded injector. Give it to Russ or someone who can rebuild injectors and they can use the nozzle, pintle, sping and shims to build a good injector. I am hanging onto my injector so I can rebuild it when I build a pop tester.
#10
You may have damaged the threads on the flare nut of the fuel line rather than those on the injector itself. In this case the cure would probably mean you buy a new metal fuel line segment for that injector.
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#12
here is what I'm wondering....
How did you manage to cross thread it so bad, that you can't get it to start the regular threads again?
I have started to cross thread mine more than a few times, and have always been able to just realign and go back into the threads.
Did you just say f-it and crank it down? If that's the case... I personally would just leave it alone until you can get a new injector/line. Probably deal with it on the next Injector swap, because you seem to be looking for the easy way out, and there isn't one if what you're saying is correct.
As for which one stripped.... its the lines that strip. The injector bodies are harder than the line nuts.
How did you manage to cross thread it so bad, that you can't get it to start the regular threads again?
I have started to cross thread mine more than a few times, and have always been able to just realign and go back into the threads.
Did you just say f-it and crank it down? If that's the case... I personally would just leave it alone until you can get a new injector/line. Probably deal with it on the next Injector swap, because you seem to be looking for the easy way out, and there isn't one if what you're saying is correct.
As for which one stripped.... its the lines that strip. The injector bodies are harder than the line nuts.
#13
I don't know how having a turbo changes things. On my regular IDI it is far easier to remove all the fuel lines than to remove the injection pump, & then just put them back in reverse order.
#14
The turbo is in the way of easy access to the threaded nut on the injector its doable but difficult, the reason for removing the injection pump is because that fuel is one of the lower ones on the I/P do you have some special tool that allows unhooking the lower fuel line nuts from the I/P? I'm getting mixed messeges on this also one person is saying he has stripped his injector threads and just replaced the injector and that the fuel line nut is the hardest. Then last night someone chimed in saying just the opposite
#15
The turbo is in the way of easy access to the threaded nut on the injector its doable but difficult, the reason for removing the injection pump is because that fuel is one of the lower ones on the I/P do you have some special tool that allows unhooking the lower fuel line nuts from the I/P? I'm getting mixed messeges on this also one person is saying he has stripped his injector threads and just replaced the injector and that the fuel line nut is the hardest. Then last night someone chimed in saying just the opposite
I remove the bottom 2 fuel lines after first removing all the top 6 lines and the injection pump inlet line. I have one of those ratcheting combination wrenches - 5/8" size. After unfastening any fuel line from its injector, I can slip the ratcheting box end over that flare nut, then all the way back to the other flare nut at the injection pump end. The box end fits easily over the flare & allows you to quickly (and blindly) loosen that flare nut, with the box end at the correct angle, & then pull that whole fuel line free. This is most helpful for the bottom 2 fuel lines, they face downward & are awkward to get to with open ended wrenches. It is otherwise quite difficult to unfasten these bottom flare nuts properly with an open end wrench.
You do have to note how you extract each fuel line, there is only one way to wiggle & wobble each line into its proper position. I recommend you photograph each line just before you remove it - this will help you remember how to get it back into position.
Others have said it's easier to disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors & then remove the injection pump with the fuel lines still attached to it. I've never tried it.