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Cross Threaded injectors

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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #16  
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That is very helpful thank you. Ive been working 60 hrs a week and don't get to much time on it. I'm trying to learn as much as I can before my next time looking at it. I'm not 100% sure exactly what Ive done so I will unhook it tonight and take another look. The truck is starting up and running I just need to get it to stop leaking now.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #17  
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I always assemble the lines onto the IP with the pump out. No fishing... no frustration.



Pulling the IP with all of the lines attached will be faster than pulling the lines.

Once again, I'm curious how you cross threaded it so badly.

Did you just keep cranking on it? What was the mindset?

I ask this because I find it hard to believe that you cannot just realign it and tighten it down. I have done A LOT of these.

I am semi-local to you if you need help/guidance
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #18  
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Thanks when I replaced the I/P thats how I did it took the old one out with lines connected transfered the lines to the new pump and then reinstalled it, I don't know that the threads are cross threaded that bad I will have to figure that out all I know is its not right and I have to do something different. Where are you located NMB2?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #19  
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I'm @ Ft. Lewis.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #20  
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The line nut is harder in my experience. You can damage the tip of the line if you crank down and the line is not centered in the injector. You will wind up putting a gouge in the tip and it won't ever seal again. The mindset is "If I turn it hard enough, maybe it will just work." Then it is, "Oh shoot, it's leaking, I need to turn it harder!" That's what you do before you learn that you should always move the injector line tip to seat on the injector and hold it there while tightening by hand until you need the wrench to snug it down. Some of us get it right off the bat, some of us ruin an injector in the learning process, some of us ruin an injector and the line. I won't tell which I am.

I always take the pump and lines off together but if someone is not replacing the IP, I can see taking the lines off so you don't mess with the timing. That said, you could still mark the pump and housing. I like to take off the #8 line so it is easier to get the pump off without fighting the #8 line against the firewall and A/C lines.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #21  
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well if you can make it down here I'm more than willing to give you a hand and re-time it for you. Pick-N-Pull has 4 complete IDI's out there right now I was going to go rob pump/lines/injectors off of.

Let me know.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #22  
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Thank God for this Forum and everyone on it. I still have a leak somewhere I haven't found yet its dripping under the truck but the one I was concerned about this morning is resolved. When I got home from work I took out the injector and sure enough I had stretched and damaged the threads on it. I used a file and a thread die and reinstalled it being much more cautious this time and started up the truck and no fuel come from it. Now I need to figure out where the other one is cause I can't see anything leaking from the top side all of my work is dry
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:38 PM
  #23  
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I need an inexpensive reliable truck. I don't use it every day but when you need it you need it. I hoping I will get this truck in condition to replace my 1966 F250 that Ive had so long I'm ready to let it go and play with something else with power steering :-)
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #24  
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Anything dripping at the top end into the valley pan will go through the valley pan drain and drip out near the starter. It could very well be whatever was left from your previous leak coming through, so try and see where its coming from and see if it slows down or stops in a day or two.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #25  
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that would be awesome if I got that lucky but I'm really happy with the performance it must have been running relly bad before cause its running way better now and its not even timed yet It must have been starving for fuel with that ol I/P it had a 130k on it the injectors had been replaced in 2005 not sure how many miles on them but this work is really paying off it took me to long but I learned alot about this truck in the process
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tecgod13
Anything dripping at the top end into the valley pan will go through the valley pan drain and drip out near the starter. It could very well be whatever was left from your previous leak coming through, so try and see where its coming from and see if it slows down or stops in a day or two.
Aha! THAT'S why my starter was wet. Thanks for that! Hopefully the new return lines take care of it.

Mike
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:10 PM
  #27  
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It took you too long? AHHAHAHAHAHHAAHA!! It took me over 3 months to get my truck running right after an IP and injector install! My main issue was a bad injector right off the bat, so I was chasing my tail for most of that time wondering why it ran like crap. You are lucky enough to have gotten a good set of injectors and after all that filing, you must not have gotten anything into the injector to clog it. I also had a new set of Delphi injectors.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #28  
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well we can just call it beginners luck since this was my first one. I probably had about 16 or so of actual hands on time not counting my head scratching but I just couldn't get time to work on it. I went 10 months of slow period at work and as soon as I started this project all hell broke loose. Ive been working 60 hrs a week and I'm just tired so it was an awesome feeling to actually drive it yesterday :-)
 
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