When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nothing I've never seen before. Looking at the primary filter, I would guess that it was incorrectly installed (not properly engaged to the cap, causing the air bleed to not be in the correct location). It looks like only half the filter has been used, which will happen if the air bleed does not end up at the top when the filter is tightened... that happens when the filter is first inserted into the HFCM, and then the cap is tightened on to the filter-rather than first snapping the filter into the cap, and then inserting it into the HFCM.
It looks like the secondary filter got a little tweaked when it was installed. I'd say it wasn't all the way down when the cap came down and twisted it.
Nothing I've never seen before. Looking at the primary filter, I would guess that it was incorrectly installed (not properly engaged to the cap, causing the air bleed to not be in the correct location). It looks like only half the filter has been used, which will happen if the air bleed does not end up at the top when the filter is tightened... that happens when the filter is first inserted into the HFCM, and then the cap is tightened on to the filter-rather than first snapping the filter into the cap, and then inserting it into the HFCM.
IIRC the NEW procedure, which I just read last week, is to insert the filter into the HFCM and then install the cap maybe because of the new filter design? I thought that was *** backwards but I'm sure that's what I read. I would still snap the upper filter into the cap though.
I think it's the secondary filter that needs to be inserted into the housing first, then the cap goes on. I ran into a no start issue when I changed my fuel filters last month. HFCM filter went in fine, filter into the cap, then install both of em together. I had always thought the process for installing the secondary filter was the same. When I did that, the fuel housing wasn't filling up with fuel, and the truck died (lack of fuel). I decided to read the instructions that came with the fuel filters to see if I had missed something. The instructions said to insert the filter into the housing first, then cap it. When I followed this procedure, my truck started right up. I didn't realize that this would make a difference, can't say I ever really payed much attention because I never had any problems, except for the last time with the no start.
BTW, I've seen my secondary fuel filters come out a little twisted a few times like the one in the photo above .
IIRC the NEW procedure, which I just read last week, is to insert the filter into the HFCM and then install the cap maybe because of the new filter design? I thought that was *** backwards but I'm sure that's what I read. I would still snap the upper filter into the cap though.
You're right. It DOES say that... However, from all my training and personal experience, it is better to insert it into the cap prior to installing the assembly in to the HFCM. You can do it the other way, but you have to positive way to ensure the cap and filter engaged correctly.
If the secondary filter resevoir is not filling up after a fuel filter change, it's normally because the primary filter had not been fully seated... Usually you can see a small gap between the cap and the HFCM when that's the case.
I can't remember the last time I've seen a secondary filter (that has been in service for a while) not come out twisted.
So, in the videos, they show the "air bleed" hole as being on "top" when the filter is installed correctly.
As you can see in Dan's picture of His HFCM, that little "nubbin" sticking out on the lower part/right, is where the "air bleed" hole is.
Now, if you "snap" the filter into the cap and start threading the cap in to the HFCM, what guarantees that the "air bleed " hole gets to where it is supposed to be? Also, where do the little things inside the filter line up on? (see in picture below)
On my first fuel filter change, I followed the procedure as described in information from the tech folder. As I was threading the filter & Cap back on, it came to a dead stop. I was almost to the o-ring. Would not turn. I backed it off a little, then started again. Again it came to a stop. So, I really cranked on it and SNAP! Then it spun right down to the o-ring, and tightened it up.
That really bothered me. Went for a drive, everything was fine. Crawled back under and took it out. Couldn't see anything, did the same routine again, and again, it came to a dead stop. Backed it out, put the filter in the housing first, Put the cap back on threaded it in, and went about my business.
Also, in His picture, it looks like the right half of the filter wasn't used. According to the filter video, the air bleed, if it isn't on the "top", only the bottom half of the filter will be used. (at 5:50 - 6:20 in the video). As we can see in the picture above, the "air bleed" is on the side of the filter that looks like it wasn't used.
I was amazed at the difference in the buildup between the two filters. The secondary filter on top of the engine, twisted back and forth easily and the fibers of the element were flaking off. I have a feeling they changed the HFCM filter but never the secondary.
I spent the weekend taking care of her. Blue spring, installed the FICM from Ed, coolant flush, oil change, fuel filter change.
Went from 7-8 mpg (mainly because the FICM) hwy to at least 15. SG II is showing 18.1 as the avg, but I'm waiting to hand calculate it after this tank.
I know it's better because it took almost a half of a tank to drive to work and back one day. Today, the gauge barely moved 1/8.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.