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Just installed e pump, need help!

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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Just installed e pump, need help!

OK so I just installed an electrical fuel pump and its working perfect. I'm getting fuel all the way to the filter but nothing comes out of the injector lines. The FSS clicks so its working but there's no or very little fuel getting past the IP. I suppose the IP could be bad but it worked fine before I installed the new e pump, I doubt that it just instantly stopped working. Any ideas?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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the truck still start up? or no?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:17 PM
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I read the other day that when the cold advance is on the return line is blocked, you could try unhooking it then turn the key on to let the EP do its thing and purg air out, then try bleeding it at the injectors.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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truck won't fire. I unplugged the cold advance and broke all the injector lines. I let the ep run for 5 minutes and maybe half a drop came from one.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
how did you wire the pump?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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I wired the pump through a relay triggered by a wire spliced into the FSS.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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I would have given the epump its own power...run wire to a switch from your pump, then from battery to a switch. Then turn it on whenever you go to fire it up....
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
and you bypassed the stock pump?

relay looks like this;
pin #30 - positive (5 amp fuse here) battery post.
pin #87 - fuel pump positive wire.
pin #85/#86 - one of them ground,the other to the FSS.
the FSS wire still directly hooked to ip.
fuel pump negative directly to ground.

how much cranking time so far?
puller or pusher e-pump,and where is it installed?
with the e-pump running,you have fuel like crazy @ the schrader valve?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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x2 with what F250 is saying, this way is more complicated for someone who is not good with electrical on vehicles(myself included) I prefer to hook to a switch like i explained.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by Aune163rd
x2 with what F250 is saying, this way is more complicated for someone who is not good with electrical on vehicles(myself included) I prefer to hook to a switch like i explained.
the relay is a simple switch.it's just that you don't need a manual toggle is all.
the FSS triggers the switch when you turn the key on,and hooks pins 30# (from the battery) and #87 (to your device) together just as if you toggled it yourself.
im surprised his ip bled dry just by replacing the type of lift pump.i wonder if his check valve in the filter head needs to be cleaned.hmm.would that even explain why she dried up though?
i wonder if he first had a failure and is trying to correct it with an e-pump.this might explain things.......oops nope.first posts explains she was running fine before he started.im puzzled.well with enough cranking,the ip should fill back up and she should fire back once again eventually.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 11:20 PM
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my only thing is maybe it doesn't give enough amps for everything to work properly with it pulling power from the fuel shutoff switch
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:36 AM
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probably the case, i would try what F-250 is saying
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:37 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by 86f250XLT-4x4
my only thing is maybe it doesn't give enough amps for everything to work properly with it pulling power from the fuel shutoff switch
yeah.this was my concern too,and why i posted the correct pin hookups.
this way,there is no draw on the FSS line.it's used to just "flip the internal switch" if you will,so that the draw flows directly from the battery (into pin 30) to the fuel pump (pin 87) without passing go.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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x2 with what john says....
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 07:34 AM
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Fuel shoots clean across my garage when I open that valve. I'll try the switch today and see what happens.
 
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