aaron'
my 54 was a whole lot worse that what your truck looks like in these pix. mine was so bad i had it all taken apart, blasted and primed. now its all over my pole barn floor. i did get a good 302 with the c-4 still attached out of a late 60's f-100. good luck to you and we'll compare how far along we are this comming spring.

 

Can you provide any info on installing a 302 w/C4 into my 54 F100. Any suggestions you can offer would be appreciated.

 

well, i'm not very far along either but go to your LMCparts magizine and they have the exact motor mounts and trans cross member you'll need to get started..hope that helps.

q in syracuse





mc

 

Great thread. Subscribing so i can follow progress.

 

Are you sure about your engine? The 302 was not offered in a truck until the 1969 F150. It was rated at a mere 130 HP under the SAE HP rating system until 1980.

 

hey ax....

i know what you mean(as i too researched it a little). looks a little weak even for my purposes. the 4.6 32v Mark 8 motor and tranny are looking pretty good. i think its rated at 285 hp. i already bought the car for the irs and ifs so why not go with it all. its got 132k on it and it runs good, but it duz have a history of getting warm once in a while. i'll check head gaskets before i do anything stupid. anything more i shud be weary of?

quentin in syracuse

 

You guys hijacking my thread is blowing my emails up.

I really dont care though.

 

hey aaron...

sorry about the hi-jack of yer thread. nothing intentional, we're just going down very similar paths. sorry.

quentin in syracuse

 

I dont doesnt bother me. I was just excited to see several comments... and then had nothing to do with my project and I was like... oh. 302 should be a fun engine to build. I saw a cab over that was running a 302 a few months back.

 

there is a lot of stuff available to jack it up to some descent hp. i researched my 302 and it was only 130hp from the factory. (a 69 truck motor). but with headers and maybe an avenger 4bbl. now yer talking and you don't even have to go inside....but if you do, the skies the limit. great little motor.

quentin in syracuse

 

My motor is getting a lot done to it. Hydraulic roller camshaft, retrofit roller lifters, roller rocker arms, machined studs, new valves, thrust plate, .030 bore, chromoly push rods, headers, 4 barrel duel plane intake, and a 750 quick fuel hr carb. Quick Fuel and I live in the same city. It should be done by January.

 

Hey Aaron,
Your engine specs made my day! Sounds nice - What's your guess on HP? You are going to video it when you fire it up - right?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Quentin,
I see a classic error many make. A normally aspirated carburated engine requires a certain minimum velocity thru the carb to atomize the fuel. Liquid gasoline will not burn, only when vaporized and mixed with the proper amount of air will it burn and produce power. Over carbing an engine will not produce more power but can actually cause it to lose power and/or have very poor throttle response, as well as get poor gas mileage.
Think of you as the engine, drinking a soda thru a straw. Use a small straw allows you to suck up the drink efficiently. Now "overcarb" by sucking thru a bundle of a dozen straws all at the same time. You can't suck up the soda efficiently, so you get less soda than with the single straw and it gets dribbled down your chin.
If you don't "open up" the engine and improve it's ability to pull in more air/fuel and use it efficiently you won't produce more power. This would mean a higher flow cam, larger valves and improved ports in the heads, higher compression pistons, and an intake that flows best at the desired RPM range. Dual plane manifolds are designed for max flow at WOT and are not as drivable on the street as the low end rpm throttle response is poor. Same with the exhaust, large diameter high flow headers can over scavenge an engine, pulling out some of the next unburned fuel charge before the engine can fire that cylinder.
For the best performance on a small cube engine everything needs to be matched and sized to work together. Instead of just ordering individual parts from a catalog because it says that part will make the most power (may be the case, but you need to know in combination with what other parts, at what RPMs and how useable that power is at normal driving conditions, not just at the drag strip), it is always best to put together a list of manufacturers you like, and talk directly to their tech support people tell them how you want the engine to perform and buy all the parts they recommend. People like Edelbrock are a good source since they supply many manufacturer's products in addition to manufacturing a wide range of products for all uses from towing a trailer to all out banzi race engines, and build and test many engines with many combinations and know what works together. If you are honest with them as to how you will use the engine, the will give you an straight answer, they want you to be happy with the parts you buy from them.

 

Well I'm hoping for about 400hp. Ill video tape it on start up. I left a bunch of stuff out hard to remember everything. Im really contemplating a march performance pully system. It is $$$$ but it is the only serpentine system that runs a sanden style compressor AND doesnt locate the compressor up in the air by the air cleaner. I really want it to look clean even though Im just going to drive it.... darn.

Check it out.
March Performance Ford Cleveland Style Track

 

Vintage Air runs about the same price and is all tucked below the valve covers