300 REBUILD HELP
#1
300 REBUILD HELP
Hello all. I've seen bits and pieces of what to do and what to get when rebuilding this engine, but I've got a few specific questions I'd like help with on my application! So here we go....
The 300 is in my 83 F100 with manual trans that I'm getting back up and running. She sat for about 7 years and has about 100k miles. After a new fuel pump and oil change we got it running. I took it around the block, no reverse and never even tried to get into second, but first worked. After this trip we noticed oil burning on the exhaust manifold, so now I know I need to get it to the machine shop to get some work done, lots of carbon build up around the rockers. I'm trying to turn it into my dd. So far this is what I've purchased: holly 390 carb, offy dp intake, and hedman headers. I know I want to change out the oil pump, but other than that I'm not sure what is worth doing when I have the engine pulled, cam shaft? rockers? keep the emissions crap (I live in oklahoma and we do not have inspections)? Boring and porting? Type of exhaust? Rebuild trans or just buy a new one? I have about $4k left to spend and have quite a bit of body/frame/paint/interior/bed/braking/suspension/powdercoating work I need to do/have done. Any help is greatly appreciated!
The 300 is in my 83 F100 with manual trans that I'm getting back up and running. She sat for about 7 years and has about 100k miles. After a new fuel pump and oil change we got it running. I took it around the block, no reverse and never even tried to get into second, but first worked. After this trip we noticed oil burning on the exhaust manifold, so now I know I need to get it to the machine shop to get some work done, lots of carbon build up around the rockers. I'm trying to turn it into my dd. So far this is what I've purchased: holly 390 carb, offy dp intake, and hedman headers. I know I want to change out the oil pump, but other than that I'm not sure what is worth doing when I have the engine pulled, cam shaft? rockers? keep the emissions crap (I live in oklahoma and we do not have inspections)? Boring and porting? Type of exhaust? Rebuild trans or just buy a new one? I have about $4k left to spend and have quite a bit of body/frame/paint/interior/bed/braking/suspension/powdercoating work I need to do/have done. Any help is greatly appreciated!
#2
#3
What do you want? how many horse power, and what do you want to use the truck for? That is what you should think about. Once you know that, then you know where you're going. If you don't know that, you'll never get there. You should also think about mpg. Performance and mpg go hand and hand to a point, and both should be considered when buying parts. With some money and some work, and a bit of knowledge, you can get the hp of a 390 out of these engines, and still get 50% better mpg than those v8's.
#4
Well I'm going to be driving it to and from work during the week, and then whatever foot camper it can handle on the weekends. MPG is probably my biggest concern consdering current prices of gas, I've also been pondering switching it over to natural gas (which I would need to double my budget for). I've got an 03 F150 right now that I will be selling once the drivetrain is finished on my 83, so I'm not in too big of a hurry and want to make sure I get it right. MPG and reliability are my biggest concerns I guess. I know with what I've purchased to far will boost hp and torque quite a bit, just not sure if it is cost effective to going further with bore/porting, cam shaft/rockers.
#5
Boring does not add a significant amount of power or efficiency on these engines but should be done only enough to clean up and true the bores. Moderate porting and polishing can even help an otherwise stock engine since the head is where the bottle neck to performance is. Without the p/p, one doesn't gain the full benefit of other mods like an aftermarket cam, headers, etc.
Again, do a lot of reading on this Forum and the FSP Forum
Again, do a lot of reading on this Forum and the FSP Forum
#6
My two cents worth: Have the head done with a nice port job, and have it magna fluxed for cracks, , 30* back cut on the intake v's with 3 angle v.job, Comp 260 cam and kit, header, recurved distributor, aftermarket ignition (www.gofastforless.com), Cloyes t.gears, bearings, new oil pump, balance the bottom end, 8.7 to 1 compression hyper pistons with chromemolly rings, the $50 Felpro head gasket, recondition the rods, bore block only if needed, grind crank only if needed, Offy C intake with a rebuilt Autolite 4100, 1.08 venturi size, Mr. Gasket #260 intake/exh. gasket, mounted with studs, and you'll have a real nice, strong rig, with good mpg too.
If you go with a header, look long and hard at your starter b/f install. Once that header is in place, your starter is sealed in place, so either put on a mini, or get a new starter first.
The reason for the C intake is b/c the 4100, mounted on a DP will sit so close to the v.cover that it makes adjusting the mix almost impossible (yes, even with the flexible adjustment tool!) It is so tight I couldn't do it with 1" long screwdriver!!
*That link I posted...the site has a lot of really good information. The 4 pin ignition he tells you how to build for pennies, with a TFI coil, will give you a very nice ignition, equivalent to the $500 DUI system, just w/o the 'bling' factor. I run a TFI coil on my carb system.
If you go with a header, look long and hard at your starter b/f install. Once that header is in place, your starter is sealed in place, so either put on a mini, or get a new starter first.
The reason for the C intake is b/c the 4100, mounted on a DP will sit so close to the v.cover that it makes adjusting the mix almost impossible (yes, even with the flexible adjustment tool!) It is so tight I couldn't do it with 1" long screwdriver!!
*That link I posted...the site has a lot of really good information. The 4 pin ignition he tells you how to build for pennies, with a TFI coil, will give you a very nice ignition, equivalent to the $500 DUI system, just w/o the 'bling' factor. I run a TFI coil on my carb system.
#7
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I'd get the full kit so you know it all works together. I'd also replace the valve stem keepers, and retainers, if they don't come with the kit. Treat the engine as though it's a person being operated on. By that I mean everything that goes in it is absolutely clean, washed, lubed, and proper. Maintain hospital like cleanliness around the engine and you'll reap the rewards of long service from that engine. One violation can cost you dearly.
#12
That FSP Forum site has a ton of information. As does this forum. One thing not mentioned so far here is you might want to put a heat plate under the intake manifold. Since you are not using the stock intake or exhaust manifolds you will not have the heat there to keep the a/f mixture warm.
Jim
Jim
#13
Heat plate? So I might as well just fab up twin turbos then eh?. Yeah my skills barely allow me to get my front clip off. I'll have to leave that to me mechanic. And as far as mini starters go, which one will work with my 4 on the floor tranny? The ones I have looked at on summit specify 5 speed only.
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