Hi all,
I wanna first start by saying I am new to this website, I have been looking at some forums and am blown away by some of your guys knowledge. Ok now to the fun stuff, today I purchased a 69 Lincoln, 460 motor, heads are "CV3E E" I am wanting to swap the 302 out of my mud truck with this but before I make the swap I was wondering what would be some good power adders? What all would I have to change to add these parts. I am looking to get HP between 360-415. Also I need good torque at low RPMs. This is going to be my first engine build. I am not looking to produce crazy numbers just need something strong, powerful, and dependable any and all info would be appreciated. I look forward to getting to know some of the you. thanks Agin

 

I'm thinking the heads you have are going to be the C8VE castings. Basically the same as the D0VE heads. The main question, How much do you plan on spending to build the motor? Your horsepower level should be pretty easy to achieve and it sounds like you are planning the same basic motor as I am.

Here's what I plan on doing:
Block: D1VE, bore .030-.040 to clean up, zero deck, probably Ross pistons, 9.5:1?? (may change) CJ rods (same as truck rods), ARP rod bolts, fully balanced.
Heads:C8VE, upgrade valves to 2.19I, 1.76E, minor port job (basically just cleaning things up), roller rockers, 3/8" pushrods.
I will be contacting a cam company to have one custom ground for my application.
I will be using bolts for the mains and heads, not studs. Studs distribute the load differently and the block should be line bored and bored with torque plates using the studs. I really don't want to bother with all the extra and it's not needed for that power level. Weiand stealth intake and a 750 carb, D5TE exhaust manifolds. I'm planning up to 6000 rpm's at times.
To tell what rods you have, if the rod bolt heads are football shaped, they are the CJ or truck rods. If they are more rectangle, they are standard passenger car rods. A set of conditioned truck rods should have no problem handling 600 hp if set up correctly.
I think I may be forgetting a few things and chime in if I remember.

The first thing I forgot, Welcome!!!

 

Chop Top....why do you consider the need to bore with a torque plate when using studs and not bolts?

I've always thought, and makes sense to me, that you should use a torque plate anytime you're getting your block bored...regardless of fastener type. When the head is torqued, it will tend to distort the top of the cylinder bores...that should happen with studs or bolts...right? I'm confident you know more so I'm really just asking

 

You should install a windage tray.Most Chevy engines had the oil pan baffle,but the Ford engines of the 70's didn't.A windage tray can add 10-20 HP,depending on who you ask.Either way,it keeps oil from splashing into the rotating assembly while the vehicle is in motion.It's about 80$.It's easy to install and I would think its mandatory for a performance build,especially if you plan any off road trips.Milodon32227 and install kit 81190 is what I used for my rear sump 460 build.Long tube headers and free flowing exhaust should also be considered.

 

I think it really depends on intended use. I've built some pretty stout 302s (shifting between 6500-7000) and have not used torque plates for boring. I also know a couple of people running 302s and 347s 450+ hp and they did not get bored using plates.
If it's just a standard street motor, low rpm's and never raced, I wouldn't bother unless something is out of spec.
If you were to build an all out race motor or something that's revved or taken to the track frequently, definitely have it done. Also if you plan on running a thin head gasket, you would want the mating surfaces to be as perfect as possible.
Most stock style head gaskets are pretty thick and have the "give" to make up for some imperfections, to a point.

Edit: I forgot to add what you had asked about, when using studs, they load the head and block differently than a bolt would. I know it doesn't seem like they would, but the forces applied are different between studs and bolts. So, if you were to switch from bolts to studs, it's recommended to use torque plates and line bore the mains. It's not something that absolutely has to be done, but to do it correctly and make things last, it's the way to go.

 

Good day you all, new here at this wonderful site; looking to dis-able the back tank of a '86 F150 5.0L 4x4 , wheres the fuses for the fuel tanks ?

 

Certainly makes sense they would torque differently. With studs you should get more of a pure stretch on the studs rather then with bolts you would get twisting as you torque them.
The one thing I like about the studs is....it helps prevent one from putting a short bolt in a long hole and pulling the top 2 or 3 threads out of the block...which of course I've done!!! Ummmm....twice Once on a head and once on an intake

 

Jeff,

Start a new thread, go to the front page of 80-86 and click the button, OK?

What you're doing is known as hijacking somebody else's thread, sort of a forum faux pas as such.

But, welcome to FTE.