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Just replaced altenator, still not charging. I can connect the field to 12V line and the voltage will spike and the idle will drop. I did this again from the back of the external voltage regulator's field wire, so I know the field wire's plug is mating with the altenator just fine.
Volts across the battery is always 12.7 or less. Headlights, etc. always cause negative deflection in the volt gauge.
Would this be indicative of a bad voltage regulator not applying field? The regulator is only about a month or two old (Borg-Warner). If not, any other ideas of what it could be? I figured if it needed residual magnetic field, the 12V applied source test wouldv'e accomplished that.
Bad regulator or bad connection to the reg. I would check the "A" wire to make sure it's connected good to the starter solenoid battery lug. Also make sure you have:
12 volts on the "I" terminal when the igniton is on(if you have an idiot light) or:
12 volts on the "S" terminal on the reg if you have an amp guage.
Think I found the problem. On the voltage regulator, all 3 inputs at the plug read 0 volts respictive to ground with the engine running. Also, one of the yellow wires (2 enter on one pin) is grounded to the side of the truck where the starter solenoid is at. I'm guessing I get to decipher a custom wiring job. Weird thing is that all the interior stuff still works.
The 2 yellow wires at the reg. should be constant 12v hot. The short one with the pigtail connector is for the radio supression capacitor that bolts down to one of the reg. mounting bolts. If that pigtail is connected to ground directly with no capacitor, look for a blown fusible link.
Hope this helps.
Greg
After I was able to get current in the yellow and lt-green/red wires, I replaced the voltage regulator and I now get about 13-14 volts with engine running.
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