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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
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hutch/harpoon

Hi all,

Any tips on where to find stainless tubing for the in tank mods? I have been calling parts houses, hardware stores, not yet. I am in Houston so I am sure stuff is available, but tracking it down is a pita sometimes.
Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Try to find some SS brake line at an auto parts store. Prepackaged comes in different lengths and diameters. Got one at Napa to use for extending the return line in the tank.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Try looking up your local Parker Store. There looks like 5 or 6 in the Houston area.

14020 Aston Street Houston, TX 77040
(713) 460-0810


Grainger is also a good place to get the line too.

5/16" will be a little harder to come by than the 3/8" line. As mentioned though brake line will work. Just try to get stainless. Aluminum line will also work too.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Expensive, but you can get precisely what you need in relatively small quantities: Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks Ken, looking for Parker outlet never occurred to me.
I called Grainger, but have to buy in 6' lengths, and order it. Oreilly's had brake line, a dark finish to it, some kind of coating, but I wasn't sure how that would stand up in the tank.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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I hope the guy at NAPA knows what stainless is, will find out later. He said they have both 5/16 and 3/8.The Oreilly guy, "oh yeah, we got that". Not.
The Parker connection, we have that, sold in 20' lengths!! Didn't even ask price.
Do people run new hose from the tank to the filter, pump? Or connect to the existing metal line after coming off the tank? I am using a small inline pre pump filter.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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You can use the existing line. The problem is the quick disconnects on them can leak and introduce air into the fuel system.

If you use new line make sure you get the 30R7 or 30R9 fuel injection hose. The 30R9 is better if you ever run bio-diesel. The 30R7 is only rated for B20. Most of the auto parts stores sell the hose for about $5 a foot.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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Why just stainless? It won't rust in that tank?
I went this route. Wanted to make myself like i did with the HPX. Was almost cheaper to buy the tank mod kit and ended up doing so. HPX also, almost the same and less aggravation if i would have just bought the kit.

All said and done+plus the filter i added, Made brackets you would be better off with this kit. http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store...ts/73L_TankKit
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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Some brake line is coated. The coating can come off and cause issues. I would have no problem using steel (factory lines are made of that) or aluminum too. Stainless is usually available and is not any more expensive from what I have found. Most hydraulic shops will usually sell "shorts" or if you are just looking for a 1-2' piece, a conversation will usually get it for free.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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My local hydraulic hose and bearing shop was the only place with stainless line.

I also found that the compression fittings wouldn't work on the coated brake line, due to the thickness of the coating. I was also worried about the coating dissolving (someday) in diesel fuel. My DIY method cost almost as much as a kit and required the proverbial 87 trips to the store.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #11  
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So, tank on the ground. Opened it up, and guess what wasn't attached any more? (hoping picture makes it)
Plus a fair amount of rust on the sending unit parts. Funny thing, I was driving around this morning with the low fuel light on trying to finish off the fuel. No sputters or acting up.
Thoughts on replacing sending unit? Ford wants 385, thats with a discount!!
Crap. Didn't see this one coming. Plus they said they don't sell the foot by itself.
I need to work on picture sending skills, but foot cracked and fell off, nothing past the hose clamp. All the metal parts of the sending unit are corroded. My gauge has stuck a couple of times, but not very often.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #12  
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Future reference for members doin this...found my tubing at a hobby store...

trak, use the "search" tab, someone here recently poste the p/n for just the "foot" assy only.

Really, not needed, since your doin an inline filter prior to pump, but does give the added benefit of filtration, with any/all gunk thats there/forms in the tank...
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Get the foot from Bob!

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by trekbasso
Plus they said they don't sell the foot by itself.
Just a couple of weeks ago Big Joe (flatbeder) bought just the pick up foot. Hopefully he will chime in with the part number.

Also they won't sell you a separate fuel level sender because the diesel senders are tacked on to the assembly. Work around is to get one for a gasser and DIY the mounting. There is an ancient write-up somewhere.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by danskool
Why just stainless? It won't rust in that tank?
I went this route. Wanted to make myself like i did with the HPX. Was almost cheaper to buy the tank mod kit and ended up doing so. HPX also, almost the same and less aggravation if i would have just bought the kit.

All said and done+plus the filter i added, Made brackets you would be better off with this kit. http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store...ts/73L_TankKit
So is this kit the hutch and harpoon in one??
 
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