Glowshift Gauge Install: Boost, Pyro, & Tranny
#19
#20
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
#21
ideal trans temp is 175 degree's.whatever you can do to keep it here within 20 degree's is always best.iv read in several places 150 is the min you want.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
#22
#23
The C6 is the opposite, cold, they shift very hard and quick, as they warm up, the shifts loosen up abit, still shift quick, but abit smoother.
#24
i found it. reasonable price as well. especially if it helps a little in the mpg department.
Derale Cooling Products 13011 - Derale Performance Fluid Control Thermostats - Overview - SummitRacing.com
i WILL think about this.
Derale Cooling Products 13011 - Derale Performance Fluid Control Thermostats - Overview - SummitRacing.com
i WILL think about this.
#26
ideal trans temp is 175 degree's.whatever you can do to keep it here within 20 degree's is always best.iv read in several places 150 is the min you want.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
#27
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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yeah,i think i'll leave it mounted right where it is,just reroute the lines so it bypasses the whole works until up to temp.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
#28
yeah,i think i'll leave it mounted right where it is,just reroute the lines so it bypasses the whole works until up to temp.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
#29
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
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i just answered those questions in the post you quoted.
sensor is located in a brass T screwed into the radiator's entry port measuring trans fluid highest temps before it enters to be cooled.
i like it here,as the gauge responds very fast to fluid temp and i can hit my e-fans on the rad and or aux cooler to maintain fluid temps quick on the draw before the trans itself has time to heat up.
130 to a painfully slow increase of 160 trans temps with the t-stat setup to bypass just the aux air cooler.last winter without the t-stat at all 90-120ish.
summer however i hang nicely around ideal temps of 160-190 with the occasional hill climb/or slow city driving, spikes of 200-210 (which is still well within the comfort zone for my flush intervals,even if that was at the test port.) even then,those occasional spikes are 5 minutes max.
this is why i have a feeling if i were to put my t-start pre-rad.i'd probably need a larger aux cooler,or my spikes could be higher than id like in the summer.i suppose ideally,a 6.0h no cooler with the t-stat pre-rad would be the hottest ticket possible year round.
sensor is located in a brass T screwed into the radiator's entry port measuring trans fluid highest temps before it enters to be cooled.
i like it here,as the gauge responds very fast to fluid temp and i can hit my e-fans on the rad and or aux cooler to maintain fluid temps quick on the draw before the trans itself has time to heat up.
130 to a painfully slow increase of 160 trans temps with the t-stat setup to bypass just the aux air cooler.last winter without the t-stat at all 90-120ish.
summer however i hang nicely around ideal temps of 160-190 with the occasional hill climb/or slow city driving, spikes of 200-210 (which is still well within the comfort zone for my flush intervals,even if that was at the test port.) even then,those occasional spikes are 5 minutes max.
this is why i have a feeling if i were to put my t-start pre-rad.i'd probably need a larger aux cooler,or my spikes could be higher than id like in the summer.i suppose ideally,a 6.0h no cooler with the t-stat pre-rad would be the hottest ticket possible year round.