Glowshift Gauge Install: Boost, Pyro, & Tranny
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 589
Likes: 2
From: Nutter Fort,West Virginia
the "heavier"/ colder oil will make it shift slower or later most generally.
i noticed that my f150 shifted different when cold but that might also be because of the e40d in it
still the heavier oil makes since too me
i noticed that my f150 shifted different when cold but that might also be because of the e40d in it
still the heavier oil makes since too me
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
Likes: 789
From: Mi'kma'ki
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 2
ideal trans temp is 175 degree's.whatever you can do to keep it here within 20 degree's is always best.iv read in several places 150 is the min you want.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 2
thanks for the good info on the t-stat. i will consider one of them. where did you get yours and about how much was it.
looks like an easy install. just splice it in pretty much before the cooler. right?
looks like an easy install. just splice it in pretty much before the cooler. right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
The C6 is the opposite, cold, they shift very hard and quick, as they warm up, the shifts loosen up abit, still shift quick, but abit smoother.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 2
i found it. reasonable price as well. especially if it helps a little in the mpg department.
Derale Cooling Products 13011 - Derale Performance Fluid Control Thermostats - Overview - SummitRacing.com
i WILL think about this.
Derale Cooling Products 13011 - Derale Performance Fluid Control Thermostats - Overview - SummitRacing.com
i WILL think about this.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
ideal trans temp is 175 degree's.whatever you can do to keep it here within 20 degree's is always best.iv read in several places 150 is the min you want.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
fuel economy can hurt a bit,and i suppose like anything,you'll get more ware by not meeting the minimum normal operating temp of the unit.
did ya see the t-stat i put in my line in the hypermillers thread?
still needs to be swapped in front of my radiator,but in front of the aux cooler sure did help a lot.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
Likes: 789
From: Mi'kma'ki
yeah,i think i'll leave it mounted right where it is,just reroute the lines so it bypasses the whole works until up to temp.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
yeah,i think i'll leave it mounted right where it is,just reroute the lines so it bypasses the whole works until up to temp.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
it still takes several miles,and a full 45 min drive to reach 150-160ish in the winter.that's already so far ahead of last winter though without the thing in front of the air cooler.be lucky to see 110 after an hour trip lmao.them low temps can't be good for anything.
this is measuring the hottest place too with my temp sensor mounted pre entry of the rad just before it enters to cool.ideally i want to see 180-190 here all the time.which is like seeing 170-180 at the pan.i flush her every 30k anyway.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
Likes: 789
From: Mi'kma'ki
i just answered those questions in the post you quoted.
sensor is located in a brass T screwed into the radiator's entry port measuring trans fluid highest temps before it enters to be cooled.
i like it here,as the gauge responds very fast to fluid temp and i can hit my e-fans on the rad and or aux cooler to maintain fluid temps quick on the draw before the trans itself has time to heat up.
130 to a painfully slow increase of 160 trans temps with the t-stat setup to bypass just the aux air cooler.last winter without the t-stat at all 90-120ish.
summer however i hang nicely around ideal temps of 160-190 with the occasional hill climb/or slow city driving, spikes of 200-210 (which is still well within the comfort zone for my flush intervals,even if that was at the test port.) even then,those occasional spikes are 5 minutes max.
this is why i have a feeling if i were to put my t-start pre-rad.i'd probably need a larger aux cooler,or my spikes could be higher than id like in the summer.i suppose ideally,a 6.0h no cooler with the t-stat pre-rad would be the hottest ticket possible year round.
sensor is located in a brass T screwed into the radiator's entry port measuring trans fluid highest temps before it enters to be cooled.
i like it here,as the gauge responds very fast to fluid temp and i can hit my e-fans on the rad and or aux cooler to maintain fluid temps quick on the draw before the trans itself has time to heat up.
130 to a painfully slow increase of 160 trans temps with the t-stat setup to bypass just the aux air cooler.last winter without the t-stat at all 90-120ish.
summer however i hang nicely around ideal temps of 160-190 with the occasional hill climb/or slow city driving, spikes of 200-210 (which is still well within the comfort zone for my flush intervals,even if that was at the test port.) even then,those occasional spikes are 5 minutes max.
this is why i have a feeling if i were to put my t-start pre-rad.i'd probably need a larger aux cooler,or my spikes could be higher than id like in the summer.i suppose ideally,a 6.0h no cooler with the t-stat pre-rad would be the hottest ticket possible year round.
