Another electrical Question
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Another electrical Question
I am in the process of bringing my grandfathers 1983 f250 4x4 with the I6 back to life. I have bought a new flatbed for it and new gas tank installed. Bought a new battery the other day and went to start it when i had very little power, the dummy light barely lit up and the marker lights were dim. I then went and bought a new positive lead and negative lead from the battery and still little power, the starter never clicked or anything. I went and bought a new starter solenoid and still had the problem. I could jump the solenoid and get the engine to crank but still little power in cab or lights. Then all of a sudden i had lights and could crank the motor but now it fried the solenoid and would not stop cranking. Bought another solenoid ( a better one) and could crank it three times and then would stick again. Any ideas? sorry for being so long winded but i am stumped.
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I think you are pulling way too much current when you try to start, which is what is frying the solenoids. My guess is that the starter is bad and pulling a lot of current.
The cab power issue may be a separate problem, probably a ground. However, since you've been making changes at the solenoid it is very possible you have a wiring problem there, and maybe even a fusible link problem.
But, I would suggest working the starter problem first and then the cab problem.
The cab power issue may be a separate problem, probably a ground. However, since you've been making changes at the solenoid it is very possible you have a wiring problem there, and maybe even a fusible link problem.
But, I would suggest working the starter problem first and then the cab problem.
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Yes, the starter could be drawing too much power and welding the solenoid together, see THIS THREAD for more on that. I'd take the starter motor to a parts place and ask them to test it.
Here is another test - when the solenoid sticks, disconnect the small-gauge red/blue-stripe wire from the solenoid... does the starter instantly stop? If so, the problem exists in that wire up to and including the ignition switch on the steering column.
As for the cab power, that's fed via wires with fusible links that connect to the battery-side of the starter solenoid. Make sure these connections are good, make sure all your battery connections are good, including the grounds to the engine block (and frame, if applicable). Your starter motor could be having problems simply because of bad ground connections....
Here is another test - when the solenoid sticks, disconnect the small-gauge red/blue-stripe wire from the solenoid... does the starter instantly stop? If so, the problem exists in that wire up to and including the ignition switch on the steering column.
As for the cab power, that's fed via wires with fusible links that connect to the battery-side of the starter solenoid. Make sure these connections are good, make sure all your battery connections are good, including the grounds to the engine block (and frame, if applicable). Your starter motor could be having problems simply because of bad ground connections....
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, the starter could be drawing too much power and welding the solenoid together, see THIS THREAD for more on that. I'd take the starter motor to a parts place and ask them to test it.
Here is another test - when the solenoid sticks, disconnect the small-gauge red/blue-stripe wire from the solenoid... does the starter instantly stop? If so, the problem exists in that wire up to and including the ignition switch on the steering column.
As for the cab power, that's fed via wires with fusible links that connect to the battery-side of the starter solenoid. Make sure these connections are good, make sure all your battery connections are good, including the grounds to the engine block (and frame, if applicable). Your starter motor could be having problems simply because of bad ground connections....
Here is another test - when the solenoid sticks, disconnect the small-gauge red/blue-stripe wire from the solenoid... does the starter instantly stop? If so, the problem exists in that wire up to and including the ignition switch on the steering column.
As for the cab power, that's fed via wires with fusible links that connect to the battery-side of the starter solenoid. Make sure these connections are good, make sure all your battery connections are good, including the grounds to the engine block (and frame, if applicable). Your starter motor could be having problems simply because of bad ground connections....
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Well i got the starter tested at parts store and they said it was fine. I went and put it back on the truck and then she started! i have started her several times since then with the radiator flush and changing oil. It stuck one of the first times it started and not again. Could it be the altenator? everytime i turn the lights on or fan it bogs way down to almost dying and then after it warms up it rough idles and eventually dies??? This started as my grandfathers everyday driver to ranch truck and then to hunting truck. I am hoping to make it my work truck with everyday driving. Thank yall for all the input- i have checked the fuseable links and pulled on them and they seemed fine, i have full power now though.
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Well, something was wrong or you wouldn't have welded two new solenoids. Something pulled way too much current when you were trying to start it. Either the starter or a short some place.
You asked about the alternator, but if it shorted internally it probably would have melted.
Also, please help me understand this: "everytime i turn the lights on or fan it bogs way down to almost dying and then after it warms up it rough idles and eventually dies???" It seems like there are at least two different thoughts in that "sentence", using the term loosely. Please help me help you by taking more time to write clearly. I find that I spend too much time trying to understand your posts rather than trying to solve the problems. Good punctuation, capitalization at the first of each sentence so I can find them, etc.
Anyway, I don't understand the sentence. But, it seems like you are saying that when you turn the lights on the engine slows down. Are you saying that if you leave the lights on when it gets warm it dies, or? I'm confused. Help!
You asked about the alternator, but if it shorted internally it probably would have melted.
Also, please help me understand this: "everytime i turn the lights on or fan it bogs way down to almost dying and then after it warms up it rough idles and eventually dies???" It seems like there are at least two different thoughts in that "sentence", using the term loosely. Please help me help you by taking more time to write clearly. I find that I spend too much time trying to understand your posts rather than trying to solve the problems. Good punctuation, capitalization at the first of each sentence so I can find them, etc.
Anyway, I don't understand the sentence. But, it seems like you are saying that when you turn the lights on the engine slows down. Are you saying that if you leave the lights on when it gets warm it dies, or? I'm confused. Help!
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Sorry about that, I have a problem of getting in a hurry and just throwing words out there and confusing the heck out of people! lol
I am still worried about the solenoid sticking again, so I got someone to turn the ignition key to start several times while I had a light tester on the ignition wire to the solenoid. It never stuck on so I know its not the ignition switch. I am not very mechanically inclined so I dont know if that really showed me anything at all but my next plan was to buy a new ignition switch till i did that "test".
As for the sentence that I blurted out- while the engine is at fast idle (before it warms up) I turn the lights or fan on and it bogs way down. I immediately turn them off and let the engine warm up. Once the engine warms up it will idle for a minute and then start dying (rpms go up and down) until it finally just dies?
Sorry again for the confusion and thanks for all input and help!
I am still worried about the solenoid sticking again, so I got someone to turn the ignition key to start several times while I had a light tester on the ignition wire to the solenoid. It never stuck on so I know its not the ignition switch. I am not very mechanically inclined so I dont know if that really showed me anything at all but my next plan was to buy a new ignition switch till i did that "test".
As for the sentence that I blurted out- while the engine is at fast idle (before it warms up) I turn the lights or fan on and it bogs way down. I immediately turn them off and let the engine warm up. Once the engine warms up it will idle for a minute and then start dying (rpms go up and down) until it finally just dies?
Sorry again for the confusion and thanks for all input and help!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Sorry about that, I have a problem of getting in a hurry and just throwing words out there and confusing the heck out of people! lol
I am still worried about the solenoid sticking again, so I got someone to turn the ignition key to start several times while I had a light tester on the ignition wire to the solenoid. It never stuck on so I know its not the ignition switch. I am not very mechanically inclined so I dont know if that really showed me anything at all but my next plan was to buy a new ignition switch till i did that "test".
As for the sentence that I blurted out- while the engine is at fast idle (before it warms up) I turn the lights or fan on and it bogs way down. I immediately turn them off and let the engine warm up. Once the engine warms up it will idle for a minute and then start dying (rpms go up and down) until it finally just dies?
Sorry again for the confusion and thanks for all input and help!
I am still worried about the solenoid sticking again, so I got someone to turn the ignition key to start several times while I had a light tester on the ignition wire to the solenoid. It never stuck on so I know its not the ignition switch. I am not very mechanically inclined so I dont know if that really showed me anything at all but my next plan was to buy a new ignition switch till i did that "test".
As for the sentence that I blurted out- while the engine is at fast idle (before it warms up) I turn the lights or fan on and it bogs way down. I immediately turn them off and let the engine warm up. Once the engine warms up it will idle for a minute and then start dying (rpms go up and down) until it finally just dies?
Sorry again for the confusion and thanks for all input and help!
Hard to believe that there is a second problem, so somehow the bog when you turn the lights or fan on surely is related to the high current draw when starting. But, the bog is probably due to a huge load being placed on the alternator - like a short. Or, maybe the voltage is dropping so low that the ignition system can't fire the plugs.
As for it dying when it warms up, I dunno. This is getting deep and confusing. Maybe when you get the other problems solved this will be solved as well. Maybe?