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Pulling the engine

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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Pulling the engine

I know there are a lot of threads like this, but I figured I would start a new one because I havent been able to find exact answers to my questions.

I'm planning on doing studs springs push rods and possibly new valve seals in the next couple of months. With how much work I'm going to do I am debating just pulling the engine to get it all done. The benefits I see to pulling the engine vs trying to do it in the truck is the fact that it will give me a chance to clean up and coat my oil pan, clean up the engine itself, chase down an oil leak that I have been messing with lately, and also clean the block and get some paint on it.

That being said, from my understanding it is a pretty straight forward procedure. Remove all unnecessary accessories on top of the engine, disconnect fuel lines and AC along with wiring harness, unbolt from transmission, and of course pull your front end off. Only part that I feel uncomfortable with is the engine to transmission connection. I have a 6-speed so what exactly do I need to do to disconnect engine from transmission?

Also, would this engine stand work for our engines?

Folding Engine Stand - 2000 Lb. Capacity

I guess as well as undo everything, I would have to drain all fluids from the engine in the process. I'm planning on taking my time with this, but also cant afford to have my truck down for longer than a week or two. I have access to a 2000lb cherry picker, will that work?

Any suggestions from those of you that have experience doing this? This will be my first time pulling an engine of any kind, and I'm excited to do it. Another part of wanting to do it is simply the learning process of doing this.

Thanks for the help in advance.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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we have done mine twice lately and we used both,,stand and cherry picker rated at 2000 lbs...I believe our motors weigh in at somewhere between 900-1100 lbs
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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They weigh in at just under a thousand pounds, I havent pulled mine so take pictures for us
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Ok...so the stand I have linked will work? Im more worried about it bolting up to it and holding...
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000ca250
Ok...so the stand I have linked will work? Im more worried about it bolting up to it and holding...
It should work its adjustable in every way. Heres some info for weight and other things http://www.internationalpowerstroke.com/73psd.html
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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this is the one im using.
JEGS Performance Products 80042 JEGS Engine Stands
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by snakedoc
Looks like the same one at the same price. How's it working out for you?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 10:51 PM
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it works ok it is hard to turn but holds it good.
it was just the best price i could find on one. i think it was only 135 total
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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Sweet. Im not worried about how easy it is to turn...just that it does
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000ca250
Sweet. Im not worried about how easy it is to turn...just that it does
I used the 1000lbs harbor freight model and it was scary to rotate the motor. Very hard to turn without pulling the entire thing over. As more parts when on it just got worse. So much so that I started hooking up the engine hoist to it to rotate just incase it did pull over.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 12:36 AM
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I have used the harbor freight unit you linked, still do, have an engine on the stand now. Works just fine. You don't have to disconnect the A/C compressor, you can hang it all over the fender. Not a great pic, but compressor is setting atop the blower box. And the evaporator coil is hanging over the passenger's side fender.






If you weren't going to mess with the oil pan I would say leave it in the truck, although you can pull the motor pretty easily since there is not much for wiring on these engines.

Pretty straight forward removal though.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 01:41 AM
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you can always pull the cab instead. Ford dose, I heard in 1 1/2 hours. But they do it alot on the 6.0L.

Chet
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
you can always pull the cab instead. Ford dose, I heard in 1 1/2 hours. But they do it alot on the 6.0L.

Chet
That takes more then a 200.00 engine hoist and a standard tool set. I wish I had a facility that could accomidate a cab removal.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:11 AM
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Oh if I had access to a shop for long enough to pull the cab I would and I'd take the opportunity to do some preventive painting on my frame! I originally wasnt planning on pulling the engine, but the more I think about doing that, the more excited I get about it, and the better idea I think it is to do because of the oil pan. As of right now mine appears to be in good shape and I'd like to keep it that way. Also it gives me a chance to clean everything up really well. PO took it to the desert a lot, so I have tons of fine silica everywhere. Now being in a cold climate I want to get as much of it gone as possible before it gets any moisture in it and causes much bigger problems.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 06:31 AM
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Don't know if it was mentioned but you have a six speed, you have to drop the trany first.
 
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