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Belt walking one rib off the crank shaft pulley

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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 12:50 PM
  #46  
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is this (timing cover) a go OEM ford part? or will aftermarket ones work as well?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 05:25 PM
  #47  
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new pulley is installed onto the shaft with pump mounted in its housing. however, I cannot get it to go any past flush with the end of the
shaft. It must be the POS kit I bought. back to the store for a refund and try the OTC one from canadian tire I guess. took a lot of force
getting it on the shaft (which I assume is completely normal) as you don't want it spinning loosely on the shaft. Note I did add some
grease to the shaft before installing. I started with the long shank insert in the pump shaft first til it bottomed out then moved to the next
shortest one, etc.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2025 | 06:00 AM
  #48  
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SUCCESS! new kit, allowed me to push the pulley on another 3/16" so the pump shaft comes out that much from the outer lip of the
shaft. hopefully that will line the belt up better with the crank pulley. onto draining the coolant and replacing the lower rad hose today.

thx for all your help guys/gals.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2025 | 02:59 PM
  #49  
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decided to take the plunge now while I have the front PS pump and A/C compressor off. removed the fan blade and radiator housing, upper & lower radiator hoses.
drained the coolant (will re-use as it's pretty new and very clean). Got the water pump off. 3 of those longer studs was pretty dicey....worked them back/forth slowly
and they finally came out without breaking thankfully. cleaned the hardware up with a wire wheel. pitting on all of the bolts for the water pump. What is the general
rule here...replace hardware if the bolts show ANY sign of deformation/pitting? I know these bolts don't require too much torque but don't want to be the one to put
sketchy hardware back for the next schlep who digs in....thoughts welcome.

took off the crank pulley and about to take off the harmonic balancer next...will need to source a puller for that.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2025 | 04:14 PM
  #50  
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do I NEED to drain the oil before taking the timing cover off? I know there are 4 bolts that go up thru the oil pan into it which have to come off before
taking the cover off....just wanting to know for sure if the oil needs to be drained first. thx
 
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Old Jun 13, 2025 | 05:32 AM
  #51  
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where would a feller find the replacement bolt kit for these OBS ford 5.0L water pumps? I don't think with the pitting on the shanks that the strength is gonna be good enough.

I see CJ pony parts and LMR sells a kit for the 302...mind you they want an arm and leg for them...anyone gone down this road and
find a reasonable priced solution?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2025 | 11:40 AM
  #52  
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got the steering box off....bit of fun with the pitman arm puller but it broke free after a couple of persuasive whacks.

cleaned it thoroughly...took the sector shaft off and removed the old seals. that was a bit nerve wracking....but it's out
and I didn't manage to score the bore...


 
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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 08:41 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by mackendw
new pulley is installed onto the shaft with pump mounted in its housing. however, I cannot get it to go any past flush with the end of the
shaft. It must be the POS kit I bought. back to the store for a refund and try the OTC one from canadian tire I guess. took a lot of force
getting it on the shaft (which I assume is completely normal) as you don't want it spinning loosely on the shaft. Note I did add some
grease to the shaft before installing. I started with the long shank insert in the pump shaft first til it bottomed out then moved to the next
shortest one, etc.
no, its not normal. after overcoming the initial force needed to get it moving, it should move with relative ease on install. I had a gm pump which resisted the removal of the original pulley the entire way. i tried to install to see if it was just the friction or what... went on easy.. not sure why it was so hard. but it may be due to how youre holding the pump while trying to rotate the tool

 
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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 08:42 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by mackendw
where would a feller find the replacement bolt kit for these OBS ford 5.0L water pumps? I don't think with the pitting on the shanks that the strength is gonna be good enough.

I see CJ pony parts and LMR sells a kit for the 302...mind you they want an arm and leg for them...anyone gone down this road and
find a reasonable priced solution?
there was a thread about a matched set that has the correct stud length on top of the bolt heads (for the ones which need that)

the price you see is the price they want tfor them. please show your bolts, you may be looking at barely a issue and just have anxiety
Using thread sealer or medium threadlocker on the bolt threads will prevent the serious corrosion and further death, if you clean them up very well first and have good fresh coolant and keep up, it wont eat them
 
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 06:05 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
there was a thread about a matched set that has the correct stud length on top of the bolt heads (for the ones which need that)

the price you see is the price they want tfor them. please show your bolts, you may be looking at barely a issue and just have anxiety
Using thread sealer or medium threadlocker on the bolt threads will prevent the serious corrosion and further death, if you clean them up very well first and have good fresh coolant and keep up, it wont eat them
I found a replacement kit but they are asking 99.00 (US) + shipping and duties. I'm gonna slather them with anti-seize and cross my fingers. . only 15 lbs torque
so they should be fine.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 03:35 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by mackendw
I found a replacement kit but they are asking 99.00 (US) + shipping and duties. I'm gonna slather them with anti-seize and cross my fingers. . only 15 lbs torque
so they should be fine.
i do Not advise the use of a anti seize for the threads at least, because the bolts may back out over time and you may overtorque.
Use a thread locker to keep threads good and not back out (so no seal leaks)
 
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 03:44 PM
  #57  
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From: New Dominion, PE
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
i do Not advise the use of a anti seize for the threads at least, because the bolts may back out over time and you may overtorque.
Use a thread locker to keep threads good and not back out (so no seal leaks)
I don't know what in the heck is going on at the US/CAN border but it is taking WEEKS to get anything shipped....waiting on gasket set for timing cover and
water pump.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 06:26 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mackendw
I don't know what in the heck is going on at the US/CAN border but it is taking WEEKS to get anything shipped....waiting on gasket set for timing cover and
water pump.
IF IT WASNT for the pressure of the system, i would advise using RTV. you CAN use an RTV like "Right stuff" But i would personally advise a gasket with sealer on it.

Do you have gasket sealant? to be clear, RTV is not gasket sealer
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 06:34 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
IF IT WASNT for the pressure of the system, i would advise using RTV. you CAN use an RTV like "Right stuff" But i would personally advise a gasket with sealer on it.

Do you have gasket sealant? to be clear, RTV is not gasket sealer
I do have RTV gasket sealer which I was going to use with the gasket. Once I take the timing cover off, if there is any pitting on the surface I may use gasket maker. don't know yet for sure.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 06:35 AM
  #60  
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you... show the product. If you have an RTV product, that IS the gasket. So saying its a sealer is confusing. If you use RTV on a gasket, its like putting three paper gaskets on something
 
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