Sounds like it's working right ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

So you guys think it's normal to have your volt meter bounce around between 9 and 14 volts when driving down the road well after its warmed up?

 

Define 'normal', and 'well after its warmed up'. The stock controller can draw power a few minutes after startup so I've heard.

If your alternator/electrical system is weak I could see it dip that low probably. Make sure all 8 glowplugs are connected, my friend has a IDI with many miles on it and one of the connectors had broken off with the glow plug connector and was sitting against the head drawing more power than a glowplug would

 

After the initial glow plug cycle, it should stay off. The plugs should not go back on until the the engine is shut off, and the key is turned on again...
You are saying that the plugs will just come on randomly as you're driving?
If so, that would point to the controller...

 

Here's what happens,
Cold start, If you call San Diego cold,
When you turn the key to the on position you get the WTS light for 5-8 secs depending on outside air temp.The volt meter shows about 9-10 volts which seems normal since the plugs pull lots of amps. Light goes out and the truck starts right up.The WTS light will come on a few times for a sec or two and the volt meter with show a drop to 9 volts. I wait for the high idle to kick off and I drive away. Now when driving down the road,sometimes within a mile and sometimes after 10 miles, with the engine temp all the way warmed up I'll see the WTS come on for a sec or two along with the volt meter dropping to 9 volts or so. I'll even see the same drop in the volt meter and not see the WTS light. To me it acts like there's a problem in the glow plug system. And it seems like there's too much draw. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the plugs did cycle when driving, the voltage shouldn't drop that much. I have a new controller/relay coming my way.

P.S. The ALT and voltage reg are new. I also checked the ground cables. I thought maybe before I changed the controller/relay I would start it and then disconnect the power to the controller/relay and take it for a drive. If the volt meter stays around 13-14 volts at least I'll know the problem is in the glow plug system somewhere.
Thank You for all your help.

 

If the plugs do cycle when driving, the voltage will still drop. The plugs will still draw 200+ amps...
This definitely sounds like a flakey controller...

 

If the red wire from the controller to the small terminal on the relay was bad, the controller might think that the key was turned off and back on again... The ground wire from the controller to ground might do the same thing.

 

I'll check that too. Just thought of something else. I have a issue with my key sometimes. You know the warning you get when you leave your keys in the ign and open your door. I'll call that the ding. Well I'll get it sometimes when I get in the truck with no keys in the ign. And sometimes when I go to start it I'll just get a solenoid click only. I tried a remote starter switch at the solenoid on the fender it cranks every time!! Maybe the problem is in the ign switch or steering column. I think we're on to something. Thanks Again

 

The controller appears to be just fine, you have a wiring/power issue.

For some reason the power or ground to the controller is interrupted making the controller think the key has been turned off then back on ... BAD BAD BAD!

I highly suggest you fix this issue ASAP ...

If you do have a bad ignition and it's interrupting the power source, that is the issue.

However, Check the Red/LtGreen wire that runs from the inner fender to the controller, check the connections ...

Check the Black wire from the controller to ground (it's grounds on the back of the motor by the controller)

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thanks so much. First thing Saturday AM I'll be on it and let you know.

 

I had thought of that, but that same circuit supplies power to the FSS. If that circuit was shutting down intermittently, it would also be causing the engine to shut down. (at least for as long as the power is off...)

 

Oh shoot...well I have plenty of things to check. Thanks

 

Yes, it does, but who is to say that it can't happen so fast that the human doesn't know it ... The electronics still will.

It also could be after the Red/LtGrn split, thus not affecting the IP, just the controller, Though I doubt this.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Possible, stranger things have happened...

 

Hey guys. The other day I picked up a FREE 93' T-Diesel F350, 4x4, crew cab, long bed . A guy at work gave it to me after it died on him while on the freeway. Since he isn't into working on 'stuff', he offered it to me. So....the engine may be shot but why not take it and have fun with it eh?

So, while researching for glow plugs (just-in-case research), I see you all recommend the ZD9s. I saw on one website selling them that they are for 7.3 NON-TURBO. Is this true? If so, does anybody out there that has the 93' Turbo 7.3 International have glow plug recommendations?

I put some additional informating below my original question to prevent thread hijacking:
I tried starting her up today. I tested both batteries and fully charged them both before the fun began. No joy. My next two steps are to check compression and check the glow plug resistance (to help me get it to start so I can hear any issues). I did verify fuel delivery (from mechanical pump and from hydro pump, and in/out of filter).

I'll get a pic of the new rig up on the forum as soon as I can. She is a little rough though.

TIA