Doesn't it seem like they should work whether the key is on or not? There are so many scenarios where you need the flashers but can't stay with the truck. Who's going leave the key in it during those times??

Hope somebody offers a remedy.....

 

I ended up getting a flasher/light/bezel from a gentleman close to me, I haven't hooked it up yet. However, if it doesn't work with the key off, best bet is to source which wire is operating off of switched power, and redirect it to something that has constant power (ie. ignition or headlights) via a wire tap or something of the like.

 

The wiring diagram shows a constant hot 7.5 amp fused orange wire with yellow stripe back to the junction block that ties to one side of the indicator light. Had the same problem with my truck, ended up making a junction block out of wood and bolts since mine was long gone and running a new wire. My wiring had been hacked and reworked so much over the years I never could find the original wire.

 

My '61 F-350 has a cobbled-together system for emergency flashers: nothing vaguely factory-looking. It is a Custom Cab and the original speedometer and instrument bezel were replaced at some point (photo attached of current configuration). As part of a project to replace the non-original speedometer and instrument bezel, I would like to find a more factory solution for the emergency flasher switch and indicator.

I see there were at least 4 possible switches for the '61-'64 trucks (above). I would love a solution that uses the blanked hole (for hand throttle?) immediately to the right of the steering column for the switch and/or the indicator light.

Thoughts? Solutions?

Thanks,

Steve

 

I know this is an old thread, but its still up and I wound up here in 2019, so i figured other people wind up here too, trying to find a solution to their flashers or emergency flasher issues.
I think I may be able to help solve some problems in this area.

To the guys who are saying their emergency flashers ONLY work with the Key ON.....this is more than likely due to the fact that you have only ONE flasher, serving dual purpose as turn signal and emergency flasher. the turn signal flasher gets its power from the ignition switch when the key is turned to ON. a simple remidy is purchase another flasher, run your power from the fuse box (accessory power, if applicable) straight to your secondary (newly purchased) flasher for the emergency lights. the emergency flashers were an option and frequently not installed in the vehicle when purchased new. TWO flashers are required to operate turn signals and emergency flashers correctly, key OFF for emerg, and key on for turn signals. check your turn signal flasher, there will be a blue wire *this wire has the "flashing" voltage that is carried to your turn signal switch thru your steering column. there may be another wire spliced onto this blue wire that runs over to your emergency switch. simply delete this spliced wire from the emergency switch, making use of this wire as we point it to the Emergency Flasher instead of the steering column blue wire, just make sure you leave the blue wire feeding your steering column still intact....we are only removing the emergency-switch wire that may be spliced onto your steering column wiring. the wire that WAS spliced to the blue wire of your steering column now goes to your NEW emergency flasher "L" terminal. your new flasher will have an "X" terminal, that simply needs NON-Switched power, so run a wire from your fuse box (accessory as stated above) to this terminal. the NEW flasher for your emergency has two terminals "L" and "X". the proper way to wire the RED emergency light is share the "L" terminal of the NEW flasher with a second wire to this RED light....and share the "X" terminal from this NEW flasher with a second wire to the other terminal of the RED light. the red light is non polarized, so it has no order of what wire to hook to the two contact points. all other wiring should stay in tact.

* The wires to emergency switch are color coded:
- Red OR Red w/black stripe= Brake Light Switch, splices (piggy back) into same wire at steering column harness
- Blue = Flashing Voltage from Emergency Flasher "L" terminal, to the emergency switch. also has second wire to RED emergency light
- Green = Drivers Side Flash, splices (piggy back) into green w/white stripe wire at steering column harness
- White/Blue Stripe = Passenger Flash, splices (piggy back) into blue w/white stripe at steering column harness
* there needs to be un-switched power supply to the FLASHER "X" terminal from the fuse box. a second wire from the "X" terminal will go to RED emergency light, next to blue wire.

* The Flasher has an indicator "X" = Voltage from battery & "L" = Load

* From you wiring coming out of your steering column to under your dash is where your emergency switch wiring should be spliced into the system, assuming your brake lights, turn signals work correctly. the colors of wire for this steering column harness are (in my case i have a total of 7)
- red = brake light switch
- light blue = voltage from flasher
- green w/white stripe = drivers front signal
- white w/blue stripe = passenger front signal
- green = passenger rear
- yellow = driver rear
- dark blue w/yellow stripe = horn voltage, pressing the horn button completes the circuit by grounding the blue/yellow stripe wire

* Important things to remember:
- Turn signal flasher has switched on/off power supply thru Ignition switch, you should have an orange w/green stripe wire powering the turn signal flasher sharing w/ red brake switch wire
- Emergency flasher has direct non-switched power from the fuse box at "X" terminal
- The LIGHT BLUE wire is the wire that has the "Flashing Voltage" that feeds power to your lights, this is the Load "L" terminal on flasher.
- The ORIGIN of power, when thinking in terms of Flash...comes from the flasher itself, as both Flashers power supply comes from two separate sources, per flasher as stated above.

Good Luck.

 

Every FoMoCo vehicle with 4 way emergency flashers has 2 flashers, the other for the turn signals. Both are round with 2 prongs, but the 4 way flasher is a H/D unit, has a louder CLICK.

The 4 way flasher was used as the T/S flasher on Camper Specials, with trailer tow, and dealers installed it for people that were deaf.

 

The 4 way flasher can be used in place of the Turn Signal flasher as well. The only real difference is the current output from the "L" load terminal of the 4-way emergency flasher is greater than the Turn Signal flasher (which doesnt supply enough current to power the flash of 4 bulbs simultaneously). you CAN wire only ONE 4-way flasher (in place of the Turn Signal flasher) to use for Turn Signals AND Emergency Flasher, but you will have to leave the key turned to "ON" to be able to use the emergecny flashers, since the power provided to the flasher unit comes from the ignition switch. Best option is TWO independently powered 4-way flashers. the increased current-flow of the 4-way flasher, used for turn signals, should make the bulbs illuminate brighter when signaling.

 

In my experience, the T/S flasher is a "weak sister" and Ford parts catalogs used to say...do not used with emergency flashers.

Both these flashers are available from any auto parts store.

Ford dealers used to install the H/D flasher in place of the T/S flasher, because people could hear it over the blaring rock music, roar of the traffic and the buttinsky mother-in-law who wouldn't shut up.

 

Does anyone make the emergency flasher switch any longer?

 

Obsolete, may be available NOS .. but there's more than one type of these switches.

 

If the part # is C6TZ15B590A, Green Sales shows 21.

 

This switch is for: 1966 & 1970/72 P series Parcel Delivery, 1966 E100, 1966 C/CT550/1000 Tilt Cab.

If SixtyFour doesn't have one a these, it's the wrong switch for whatever he does have.

There are two additional switches with the 15B590 basic number, other switches w/the basic number of 13A350.

So which switch is it? Inquiring minds want to know what the application is.

 

Goes to show you what I know about part numbers

 

Yes, but you get an A for effort. These switches are a b!tch to look up, because there's so many different ones.

 

Is this the switch you need. If so it was part of the flasher harness. If your bezel is good take care of it since I don't believe it is reproduced and it is different from all the others on the dash.