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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Emergency flasher/hazard switch...

 
  #1  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:07 AM
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Emergency flasher/hazard switch...

Hello all, I'm a bit kerfuffled over something and hopefully someone has some insight.

I have noticed on many 65/66 trucks that to the right of the steering column, there is 3 switches (heater, choke, emergency flasher) plus an emergency flasher light. My '65 does not have neither the emergency switch nor the light.

Was this an option? Where the emergency flasher switch is supposed to be in mine, someone's threw in an aftermarket POS switch to operate some under-dash lights which are not going to be used. I'd like this to be back to original and have no idea if mine even came with the hazard light switch. There is no hole in the dash for where the warning light should be.

Dean
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:10 AM
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Emergency Flashers are an add on option.

It is a plug and play harness offered by ford. The Light bezel goes in the dash and the switch is mounted on a plate to the bottom of the dash.

You can still find them NOS and they are year specific as it goes in between the steering column wire connectors.



Garbz
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:21 AM
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1965/66: There are EIGHT different types of 4 way emergency flasher switches. It depends if factory or dealer installed, 2WD or 4WD.

Some dealers would install whatever 'ol kit they had in stock, "make it work." So, if this is the case, add FOUR more switches to the mish-mash, the types used 1961/64 and for Econolines.

1966: There are two types of factory installed switches, depends on the trucks serial number (last 6 digits of the VIN).

1965/66 switches mounted en dash: One type has no red lens / Another type has the red lens separate from the switch, mounted next to it in the dash (this type is the most commonly seen).

Another type has a **** w/a red lens incorporated within it / Another type has the red lens mounted to an underdash bracket.

Then there's this little charmer, similar to 1965/66 Passenger Cars, 1967 F100/350's: The whole enchilada, flasher, (toggle) switch is mounted inside the glove box on a bracket, there is no lens.

Examples are shown here: 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Illustration Section 145.2 ~ Pages 1 thru 10. Have lotsa fun figuring out which is which, because it's a FIASCO!

btw: Western Auto, Sears, NAPA, JC Whitney and etc all sold "gypo" universal "fitz-all" kits. So, don't assume that if your truck has 4 ways, that it's genuine Ford.
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:29 AM
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Thank you both for your replies. I'll just hop on over to my Ford dealer and get one instaled today! The ones I saw most were the ones with the light mounted in the dash next to the switch.

I think I'll just remove the garbage switch that's there, fill in the hole and smooth it out....unless I come across one of the original ones.

Cheers!
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:21 AM
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374052-S13 .. Plug Button / 1 5/16" O/A diameter to plug 7/16" hole / Obsolete

359651-S7 .. Plug Button / 1.00" O/A diameter to plug 7/16" hole / Obsolete

Boh types used to plug hole(s) in dash if optional cigar lighter, 4 way flasher switch not installed

No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any,
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
374052-S .. Stainless Steel Block Off Plug / Used to plug hole(s) in dash if optional cigar lighter, 4 way flasher switch were not installed.

I'll take a look-see if anyone has any NOS.
That would be great, thank you!! My truck is a Canadian-built one, as am I actually. VIN is 4991028L229951. I'd surely take someone up on the delete plug if there's one around.
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MrHomz View Post
That would be great, thank you!! My truck is a Canadian-built one, as am I actually. VIN is 4991028L229951A. I'd surely take someone up on the delete plug if there's one around.
No one has any of the plugs, but Don (camperspecial65) prolly has dozens of used ones. Lives in the PNW, Sea-Tac area. Sent you an email w/his contact info.

In case you're wondering what 4991028L-229951A decodes to:

4 = V8

99 = Styleside Pickup.

10 = 100 Series.

28 = 128.8" Wheelbase (usually referred to as 129").

L = Left Hand Drive.

229951 = 1965 Numerical Sequence of Assembly ~ Oakville, Ontario Canada Truck Assembly Plant. Today, it assembles the Edge. I drove by it awhile back when it was assembling Windstars.

A = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating range: 3,600-5,000 lbs.
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:19 PM
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Garbz..they 4 way flashers were NOT an add on ONLY item...they are part of the Camper Special package #2.......Which was a factory installed option.


I have a 4 way flasher setup if you are in need...PM or email for more info.




- cs65
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:33 PM
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Part of the C/S package, available as a factory installed option on all other 1961/66 F100/1100's. There were myriad dealer installed kits, and...

Became standard equipment (C6TZ-13A350-A) on all 1966 F100/1100's from serial number 858,001 (May 1966).
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by camperspecial65 View Post
Garbz..they 4 way flashers were NOT an add on ONLY item...they are part of the Camper Special package #2.......Which was a factory installed option.


I have a 4 way flasher setup if you are in need...PM or email for more info.




- cs65

I sent a "visitor" message...I'm still a noob on here I guess. Am interested in the setup, as long as a schmuck like me can install it easy enough!

Dean

PS. You guys really know your stuff and I am forever grateful for it.
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
No one has any of the plugs, but Don (camperspecial65) prolly has dozens of used ones. Lives in the PNW, Sea-Tac area. Sent you an email w/his contact info.

In case you're wondering what 4991028L-229951A decodes to:

4 = V8

99 = Styleside Pickup.

10 = 100 Series.

28 = 128.8" Wheelbase (usually referred to as 129").

L = Left Hand Drive.

229951 = 1965 Numerical Sequence of Assembly ~ Oakville, Ontario Canada Truck Assembly Plant. Today, it assembles the Edge. I drove by it awhile back when it was assembling Windstars.

A = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating range: 3,600-5,000 lbs.

Thank you for that info...I was sort of clear on it. When I initially got it, my insurance company was giving me a hard time because the VIN didn't begin with F1xxxxxxxxxx because it was Canadian built. Oddly enough, I live 100 miles from the plant that built it...the company I work for delivers freight to there the odd time. They do the Edge, Flex, Lincoln MKX and the new MKT.

My last truck (79 F100) was also assembled there.

Dean
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MrHomz View Post
Thank you for that info...I was sort of clear on it. When I initially got it, my insurance company was giving me a hard time because the VIN didn't begin with F1xxxxxxxxxx because it was Canadian built. Oddly enough, I live 100 miles from the plant that built it...the company I work for delivers freight to there the odd time. They do the Edge, Flex, Lincoln MKX and the new MKT.
Excepting the "box on a box" Flex, all these are basically the same. Most peeps are unaware that the Mazda CX-9 is also the same under the skin, and what these were based on originally.

My last truck (79 F100) was also assembled there.
All 1968/79 Crew Cabs assembled there, regardless of where they were sold new. Most were sold in the US. Assembly plant code: 5th digit of VIN / C = Oakville.
Thru 1965, trucks assembled in Canada have specific VIN's and the Rating/Warranty Plates they are stamped on, which are usually located on the left (drivers) side A pillar (windshield post).

1966/80: Same 11 digit VIN and Warranty Plate as US trucks, plate riveted to the left door face below the latch.
 
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:23 PM
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You can install a 73-77 turn switch with the flasher switch built in pretty easily.

This applies to my 61 with a 3 speed column shifter but I now have a floor shifted 5 speed. Slightly different procedures may be required for others.

To start, I acquired a switch and collar assembly from a 75 pickup.

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With these pieces in hand, I took the column apart to see just what I will have to do in order to mount these pieces.

To start, push down on the horn button and turn counter clockwise. This will release the horn button. You will find a spring under the button. Put these in a safe place.

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Next, loosen the steering wheel nut with a 15/16" socket but do not remove it. Unscrew it until it's about flush with the end of the shaft. Install a steering wheel puller and pull the wheel off. The nut will prevent the wheel and puller from flying off when the wheel breaks free.

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Under the steering wheel is where you will find the original switch if yours is so equipped. It appears mine was not. You will also find the horn contact which I actually broke a long time ago and so it is not in the picture. It is held on with the philips head screw which is in the picture. There will also be another spring. Once again, put these in a safe place.
Loosen the nuts at 12 and 6 o'clock to the point at which there is about 1 thread holding them on. Use the thumb and index finger of one hand to pull the nuts toward the center of the shaft. This will pull the bolt heads out of the steering column. Wiggle the collar a little while pulling with the other hand and it should come out. If it refuses to come out, try loosening the nuts a tad more.

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Once that is removed the shift collar will be visible. This just pulls out of the column. You may need to rotate it a little to release the linkage pieces at the bottom of the tube.

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Now I'm able to see what needs to be done in order to mount the switch. This is what the top of the column tube looks like.

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This will not work without some modification to mount the later switch. The collars are located in a different way. The original collar is located by a tab just to the left of the switch pivot. The later model collar is located by the switch pivot.

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This is an easy modification to perform to the stock column. Just notch it, mount the components and you're done. However, where possible, I prefer not to modify the original parts of the truck in any way - as crazy and illogical as that sounds. I acquired a column tube from a 4 spd 1963 model. This fits the 61's steering box and has the correct notches up top for the later components.

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After acquiring this, I made sure the later stuff will fit.

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I then stripped them down to bare metal, primed and painted the parts.

Now back to the column removal. The column to dash clamp will have to be removed. I had to use a 1/2" box end wrench for this. If so equipped, shift linkage rods will need to be removed from the shift arms toward the bottom of the column. Once this was loose, I found that pulling on the column tube while twisting was easiest. I couldn't get a good angle to pry it off.

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You will have to remove the sheet metal pieces which hold the column to floor seal in order to pull the shift linkage pieces through. Be ready to catch these when the tube comes off of the shaft. On the bottom of the tube will be a rubber donut. I removed it, cleaned it and installed it in the 63 tube.

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I then pushed the tube onto the steering box. I used a little grease on the box to help it slide on easier. Next, loosely install the column clamp and make sure the tab on the clamp is lining up with the oval in the column. Screw the collar pieces together.

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Fit the switch wires through the collar but do not yet fasten the switch. Pass the wires through the channel in the column and carefully work the collar and switch onto the column. Pull the collar nuts toward center and hold the bolts down while wiggling the assembly and minding the wires so that they don't get pinched. It might be a little tricky. Just be patient. Tighten the collar nuts, tighten the switch, install the smaller spring, mount the steering wheel and tighten the nut, install the horn button spring, and install the horn button. Now adjust the gap between the column and steering wheel to 1/16". To do this, carefully pry the column up until you have the appropriate clearance. Tighten the column clamp nuts.

Now for the wiring.

I made this diagram once I had figured out how the switch works.

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And this is how it should be wired into the 61 harness. The only thing that needs to be added is the hazard flasher.
I am not able to wire it correctly just yet. My wire harness is too messed up. So please check this against your diagram before proceeding.

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And here it is almost finished. I just need to clean up the wires a little.

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  #14  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:46 AM
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I'm reviving this old thread rather than start a new one because I have a question about my emergency flashers on my '66 F100. It has the toggle style switch with the reddish backing plate that says something like "Emergency Warning lights" or some such.

The problem is they only work with the key on....which seems kinda stupid to me. They should work anytime, right? There are 3 wires- red, yellow & blue attached to the switch. The red appears to tie into the stop light switch. I'm not sure where the blue and yellow tie in. Anybody have any thoughts on how to make them work with the key off?

Thanks!
 
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 37 Ford guy View Post
I'm reviving this old thread rather than start a new one because I have a question about my emergency flashers on my '66 F100. It has the toggle style switch with the reddish backing plate that says something like "Emergency Warning lights" or some such.

The problem is they only work with the key on....which seems kinda stupid to me.
That's how mine is.
 

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