Finally own a crew
#31
I have to stop and save some cash for a bit.
#32
I just can't wait to dig in so I figure I can at least get some body work done and do some planning. I gutted most of the interior other than dash stuff as I don't want to get too far into this.
Pulled the headliner and I can feel no rust at the roof seams, not even surface rust but the floor was not so good. The metal around the rear cab mounts flat out failed.
Globoweld...got to wonder about that silicone. Wonder what is to be found after the paint is off the roof. Original insulation is still there so I'm hoping for the best.
I'm thinking heavily reinforcing the rear angle support from underneath the cab. Trying to eliminate the flex back there.
I saw where someone here(I think) welded the seam on the bedside. Good idea or not necessary?
I believe the fronts are Bronco (free to a good home) faded but no holes that I noticed. Get them before the mice do.
Once I'm sure the King Ranch rear seats are GTG this is free too.
Pulled the headliner and I can feel no rust at the roof seams, not even surface rust but the floor was not so good. The metal around the rear cab mounts flat out failed.
Globoweld...got to wonder about that silicone. Wonder what is to be found after the paint is off the roof. Original insulation is still there so I'm hoping for the best.
I'm thinking heavily reinforcing the rear angle support from underneath the cab. Trying to eliminate the flex back there.
I saw where someone here(I think) welded the seam on the bedside. Good idea or not necessary?
I believe the fronts are Bronco (free to a good home) faded but no holes that I noticed. Get them before the mice do.
Once I'm sure the King Ranch rear seats are GTG this is free too.
#33
My 69 F-250 had the frame plates and I believe they were the stock crewcab frame. I also believe all of the F-250s were a short bed but I could be wrong.
I remember the elation to being a new owner of the CC I had wanted for so long, traveled 2300 for it. I paid $1500 and drove it daily for 4 years. The engine was tired and I just didn't have the resources to do anything with it. Along comes a $3000 cash offer and the romance is over. Anytime I can drive something 4 years and get double what I paid it is time to move on. But, I may own it again someday. I sold it to a disabled Nam vet and have first right to buy it back if he ever sells. Maybe it will still set in my yard with a 4BT in the frame rails someday.
I remember the elation to being a new owner of the CC I had wanted for so long, traveled 2300 for it. I paid $1500 and drove it daily for 4 years. The engine was tired and I just didn't have the resources to do anything with it. Along comes a $3000 cash offer and the romance is over. Anytime I can drive something 4 years and get double what I paid it is time to move on. But, I may own it again someday. I sold it to a disabled Nam vet and have first right to buy it back if he ever sells. Maybe it will still set in my yard with a 4BT in the frame rails someday.
#34
Well, I keep saying that I don't want to get too far into this. I'm not saying that anymore cause I'm apparently full of $%@#.
This is going to end up quite involved so here are my plans so far.
93 Cummins swap
nv4500 or similar
2wd-4wd conversion
Coil spring D60 front (no leafs)
D80 rear
Complete body resto
Hydroboost
Discs front and rear
4-6 inch lift to clear 35's
Really sweet stereo system (it was free)
Alarm system that shoots the thief!
Custom fuel tank
Thinking some sort of metallic brown on top and offwhite/white on the bottom.
I blasted the top side of the bed and shot it with epoxy primer. Bottom will get lightly blasted and chassis saver paint.
Test fit.
Snagged this at the JY...pretty sure it will fit.
390 leaving. I measured.
390 gone...3 bolts holding trans and broken engine mount.
One good thing about a major valve cover leak is it preserves everything underneath. Tranny was barely recognizable. It looked like a giant lump of grease.
I'm pretty sure a couple of patches and the driver side can be saved. Passenger side is toast.
Went looking for trouble.....FOUND IT!
At least I have an opportunity to do something with the surface rust inside the hood. Found where someone did a repair on the front edge of the hood before and I think I can get rid of most of the dings there.
The KR seat plan got scrapped as the rear bench was way to deep. One would have to climb over the seat just to get in. I have some seats out of a minivan that might work or recover the original...have to wait and see.
Til next time.
This is going to end up quite involved so here are my plans so far.
93 Cummins swap
nv4500 or similar
2wd-4wd conversion
Coil spring D60 front (no leafs)
D80 rear
Complete body resto
Hydroboost
Discs front and rear
4-6 inch lift to clear 35's
Really sweet stereo system (it was free)
Alarm system that shoots the thief!
Custom fuel tank
Thinking some sort of metallic brown on top and offwhite/white on the bottom.
I blasted the top side of the bed and shot it with epoxy primer. Bottom will get lightly blasted and chassis saver paint.
Test fit.
Snagged this at the JY...pretty sure it will fit.
390 leaving. I measured.
390 gone...3 bolts holding trans and broken engine mount.
One good thing about a major valve cover leak is it preserves everything underneath. Tranny was barely recognizable. It looked like a giant lump of grease.
I'm pretty sure a couple of patches and the driver side can be saved. Passenger side is toast.
Went looking for trouble.....FOUND IT!
At least I have an opportunity to do something with the surface rust inside the hood. Found where someone did a repair on the front edge of the hood before and I think I can get rid of most of the dings there.
The KR seat plan got scrapped as the rear bench was way to deep. One would have to climb over the seat just to get in. I have some seats out of a minivan that might work or recover the original...have to wait and see.
Til next time.
#36
#39
Spent the day in the shop today. I got my bed blasted and sealed with Chassis Saver. A friend came over and we dug into the rear cab corners.
This was hiding in one side.
Judging by the damage other than rust it appears the cab is flexing to much for the metal to support the cab. I don't want the new corners to fail so I'm thinking of a plate that would be welded to the original rear support wrapping around it and then angled up toward the rear of the cab and then up a bit so we can weld the rear of the cab right to the new support. I can put some braces in also. I'm thinking 3/16 plate.
I'm thinking this would be better than going from below to keep space open for exhaust etc.
Original holes repaired.
Bed pic. I was laying down a final heavy coat and shore enough I managed to find some sand and blew it all over the inner bedside.
Seems I have found a relatively rust free 67 in Georgia for $cheap that my buddy is going to store for me for a while. I'm bringing the body up and leaving the rest.
I'll get a nicer hood,inner fenders,tailgate and spare doors etc.
I'll be parting with the bed(8ft) cab and fenders so let me know if anyone up North needs stuff. It probably won't be up here(IN) for a few months or so.
This was hiding in one side.
Judging by the damage other than rust it appears the cab is flexing to much for the metal to support the cab. I don't want the new corners to fail so I'm thinking of a plate that would be welded to the original rear support wrapping around it and then angled up toward the rear of the cab and then up a bit so we can weld the rear of the cab right to the new support. I can put some braces in also. I'm thinking 3/16 plate.
I'm thinking this would be better than going from below to keep space open for exhaust etc.
Original holes repaired.
Bed pic. I was laying down a final heavy coat and shore enough I managed to find some sand and blew it all over the inner bedside.
Seems I have found a relatively rust free 67 in Georgia for $cheap that my buddy is going to store for me for a while. I'm bringing the body up and leaving the rest.
I'll get a nicer hood,inner fenders,tailgate and spare doors etc.
I'll be parting with the bed(8ft) cab and fenders so let me know if anyone up North needs stuff. It probably won't be up here(IN) for a few months or so.
#41
Wycked,Yea...I switched to the bumpside/darkside, whichever you prefer.
The new 390 is FINALLY in the 79. I need to rebuild the carb and a few odds and ends to fire it up. Winter ride will be done then. He stuffed it with a bunch of goodies and gave me a great price but I don't think I want to wait a year for anything else. It was a year exactly to the day.
The new 390 is FINALLY in the 79. I need to rebuild the carb and a few odds and ends to fire it up. Winter ride will be done then. He stuffed it with a bunch of goodies and gave me a great price but I don't think I want to wait a year for anything else. It was a year exactly to the day.
#42
#43
#44
#45
I wish I could remember the issue your talking about. There was soooo many of those....issues.
Today I blasted the underside of the hood and I nicked the side of the hood and low and behold there was even more holes hiding under the paint.
So I cut out even more metal and replaced it. Finally got it epoxy primed.
I guarantee I'll find a better one before this truck is finished. Always works that way.
Pretty sure the highboy cab supports are going to work out good. They land nicely where the 2 cabs were welded together.
Welded in my brace also. We drilled some 5/16 holes and welded the back of the cab to the new plate.
Primed it.
The hood project is finished.
Today I blasted the underside of the hood and I nicked the side of the hood and low and behold there was even more holes hiding under the paint.
So I cut out even more metal and replaced it. Finally got it epoxy primed.
I guarantee I'll find a better one before this truck is finished. Always works that way.
Pretty sure the highboy cab supports are going to work out good. They land nicely where the 2 cabs were welded together.
Welded in my brace also. We drilled some 5/16 holes and welded the back of the cab to the new plate.
Primed it.
The hood project is finished.