Replacing Injectors - Guidance Please
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New User
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Replacing Injectors - Guidance Please
I have a 94.5 F350 7.3 4X4 and am attempting to pull my injectors and send them off to Rosewood Diesel. I've got the cover off of the drivers side, and when I tried to remove the oil drain plug in the head, the allen screw stripped over. I'm going to attempt to back it out with a 1/8" "ease out". If this doesn't work, I thought I saw someone somewhere mention another option of removing the oil form the cylinder a different way. Any help would be appreciated. Also, the valve cover gasket with the electrical built in looks to be in good shape. Do those need to be replaced every time they're taken off, or could it be reused.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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well...if yo9u are gonna spend the $$ on injectors...don't you think an oil change might be beneficial????
drain your oil...then simply remove injectors...when Jim gets them back to you just install and finish the oil change with a new oil filter...no need to pull the head plugs....at least for me this worked....it'll take a few cranks to get it fired up....then take it out for a run down the highway...this run will purge any air in the oil system...hth
drain your oil...then simply remove injectors...when Jim gets them back to you just install and finish the oil change with a new oil filter...no need to pull the head plugs....at least for me this worked....it'll take a few cranks to get it fired up....then take it out for a run down the highway...this run will purge any air in the oil system...hth
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Don’t worry about the drain plugs just use a mighty vac to suck the oil/fuel out of the cylinders .pull the rear injectors first and let all the oil / fuel drain into that hole while you are sucking it out. Once you have them all out turn the motor by hand to be sure you get it all out before you install your injectors. I have done it this way several times, be sure to change your oil before you fire it up I found best to leave the glow plugs out so you can crank it a few times to be sure the cylinders are clear ant you get oil pressure back in the system, before firing it up, less strain on the starter. I crank it for 20-30 sec each time in till I get 10-20 psi remember to pre fill the hpop res to cut down on cranking time and pull # 22 fuse while priming the system.
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Thanks guys,
I actually already drained the oil in the truck first, thinking that would work instead, but then thought the head might somehow still hold a little oil. If it doesn't, the problem was actually solved before I even took the valve cover off. One thing I'm fuzzy on, and I'm not a mechanic, but when you drain the oil, it emptys the pan. The motor is not full of oil all the way up to the head. I take it, thats why they put the plug there. The vaccum idea seems like it would work, and the truck is kind of sitting uphill as well.
I actually already drained the oil in the truck first, thinking that would work instead, but then thought the head might somehow still hold a little oil. If it doesn't, the problem was actually solved before I even took the valve cover off. One thing I'm fuzzy on, and I'm not a mechanic, but when you drain the oil, it emptys the pan. The motor is not full of oil all the way up to the head. I take it, thats why they put the plug there. The vaccum idea seems like it would work, and the truck is kind of sitting uphill as well.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Reno, NV
Don’t worry about the drain plugs just use a mighty vac to suck the oil/fuel out of the cylinders .pull the rear injectors first and let all the oil / fuel drain into that hole while you are sucking it out. Once you have them all out turn the motor by hand to be sure you get it all out before you install your injectors. I have done it this way several times, be sure to change your oil before you fire it up I found best to leave the glow plugs out so you can crank it a few times to be sure the cylinders are clear ant you get oil pressure back in the system, before firing it up, less strain on the starter. I crank it for 20-30 sec each time in till I get 10-20 psi remember to pre fill the hpop res to cut down on cranking time and pull # 22 fuse while priming the system.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 189
From: Reno, NV
Thanks guys,
I actually already drained the oil in the truck first, thinking that would work instead, but then thought the head might somehow still hold a little oil. If it doesn't, the problem was actually solved before I even took the valve cover off. One thing I'm fuzzy on, and I'm not a mechanic, but when you drain the oil, it emptys the pan. The motor is not full of oil all the way up to the head. I take it, thats why they put the plug there. The vaccum idea seems like it would work, and the truck is kind of sitting uphill as well.
I actually already drained the oil in the truck first, thinking that would work instead, but then thought the head might somehow still hold a little oil. If it doesn't, the problem was actually solved before I even took the valve cover off. One thing I'm fuzzy on, and I'm not a mechanic, but when you drain the oil, it emptys the pan. The motor is not full of oil all the way up to the head. I take it, thats why they put the plug there. The vaccum idea seems like it would work, and the truck is kind of sitting uphill as well.
You will get oil & fuel in the cylinders when you pull the injectors. It's best to suck this fluid out using some type of vacuum.
While you're in there for the injectors, you might want to replace your glow plugs.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Gambrills
2 short video clips in post # 4(?) and LOTS of good info here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
Good luck and have fun!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
Good luck and have fun!
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From: AZ
Senior User
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hmmm...didn't seem like that long to get my beater to fire...maybe I did something wrong....lol
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: AZ
HAHA, Its been several years but it seemed like I cranked a long, long time. Probably because I had to get down the road to check out a trailer. I know it was 200 miles before it bleed out because I drove 100 miles to buy a trailer and 100 back without shutting it off. The next morning it was still a little hard to start, I couldn't believe it!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,566
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From: Monroe/Ellensburg, WA
It took my about 3-4 ten second crank sessions to start my truck after my 3 injector swaps. Let it idle for a little bit then take it out and run the **** out of it for a bit.. It will have an extended crank for a while after you do this swap, nothing to worry about. Keep on keepin on.
You definitely want to get a vacuum and suck out the cylinders, Make sure to oil the orings when you put the new injectors back in. Make sure they are seated fully. Put a level across the solenoids. And make sure they are torqued to 120inlbs.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,137
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From: Marble Falls, Texas
Gonzo, Jude (Norton72) said you may need some help. He has my #, feel free to call me anytime. I can walk you right through an injector swap, no problem. I'd be glad to help man, just give me a holler. Cratos has you about dead on, but if you have any gaps that need filling in the process I'd be glad to help.