So I been working on my truck during the weekends. I had bolts (3) break off into the exhaust manifold. Got those drilled out and took off a manifold of a donor 360 we have over here. Got the everything back together and it took care of the leake from the old cracked manifold. Rebuilt the Carb and is all nice and clean. Threw it back on and the 360 sounded great. It actually stays on now. The issue I have now it with the fast cam I'm not sure how to set it. The screw was not touching anything like it looks like it should. There's a vacuum on the left side of the carb backside something about a tube that runs from the manifold to the carb? Also the truck will turn on but it idles low like it wants to turn off then bam revs high. Once I rev it one good time I guess the choke opens and revs back down an cuts off. So any help would be great. Also next to the trottle lever there another lever that just flops there don't know what it's for
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The other lever is probably the transmission kickdown lever. Is the choke electric or manual? Is it cable operated?

 

The choke is manual. All I kow if I have to unscrew four screws to adjust it.

 

Sounds like part of the choke linkage is missing/unhooked and the high idle cam is falling down and holding the throttle open.

If you have an actual manual choke, it should only be a cable running down to a lever with a screw to adjust it.

Is this the stock Autolite carb?

 

yes it is


the arrow is to the throttle thats connected to spring. the circles one is what im talking about its just there

 

The screw you have circled is the idle adjustment screw. On the other side of the carb, the black round cover is the choke. The three screws unloosen it and you can adjust how the choke comes on/off.

I'm guessing that lever on the drivers side is for automatic kick down, which apparently you don't need.

The choke is just a coiled spring steel that expands/contracts with temperature change and that rotates the linkage on the other side which holds the throttle open more to give it high idle when cold. It soulds like that is what is controlling your idle speed presently and why it's so irractic.

With the motor cold, loosen the three screws on choke. Open the throttle fully(just to get it out of the way). Rotate the choke housing until the choke plate "just closes fully". You can rotate the housing back and forth slightly, but just make the plate closed. Pretty sure CCW will close it and CW will open it(been too many years, but pretty sure). Now tighten screws and let go of throttle.

Presently the choke is set "ON". Start truck and let it warm up. Within a minute or two the choke should start to open the plate. You'll be able to tap the throttle and have the motor come down to idle. If it's too slow and wants to stall, use the screw on the drivers side to increase RPM.

The vacuum you speak about on the back side? I'm not too sure about that, the pictures don't show it.

 

I figured out the leak on the left side I gotta get this

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

 

That usually connects to the threaded outlet on the choke housing(should be female threads on the bottom side, part of the aluminum casting). It draws a small amount of vacuum through the choke housing that sucks heat up the tube(from the exhaust manifold area). The factory tube actually connected right to the exhaust manifold.

I'd like to see where this fitting is on the back.

 

These both go down to the manifold

 

Your heater hose fits in that clip under the choke. It helps the choke open quicker as the hot coolant flows. Your hose is too short.

 

that isnt a picture of my carb, thats one i found cause freightrain wanted to see the connection i was referring to i was Missing.

 

The choke tubes goes down to the exhaust manifold. It draws warm air up to activate the choke. There is vacuum drawing through it, above the throttle plates, so it's not a vacuum leak persay.

Don't know why that other line would go there?? I agree, could be choke pull off, but am not familiar with it. All the Autolites I had, never had it.

 

Well it's a vacuum leak of some sort when the piece that is supposed to be there isn't there at all know what I mean.

 

Oh and the other line is something fresh air breather or something like that

 

So a bit of an update, i got the Heater choke tube installed, and I installed new points and condenser along with new plug wires and plugs and cap. Still having an issue getting the truck to idle. I cleaned off the pulley and founds TDC but when i crank it left and then back right i has quite a bit of give like its loose or something. also the distributor when i turn the ignition rotor to the left it also has a bit of give, they guyt that was helping me said its not supposed to be like that. and also when i turn the vacuum advance as if the truck turns over the whole rotor turns too making timing a PITA