So I was looking through Bobs F2 Frame Swap page
(1948-52 Ford Truck Frame Swap)

He used a supercab, but, would a standard 1971 single cab long bed work just the same?
I was thinking of it for my 48 F1.
How limited would I be on rim options? No factory ford stuff?
Why does the bed need to be mounted in such way? Couldn't it be mounted the same?

 

Sorry I have no idea on that Are you ditching your original frame?
If you are I might be interested in it.

 

If you go back and read it again ,it is explained why the long frame was chosen . It has to do with how the frame widens out in the rear area. He tells how it is pulled in and shows where the cuts were made to shorten it.

 

What's the benefit to doing that frame swap? That's a lot of work for not much if any gain.

In my case I wanted to go 4x4 with my truck so the frame swap made sense( to me ) . But I've found myself many times wishing I held onto my stock frame.

I just don't see the benefit. Especially on a F1! Why not just swap in a newer diff and add a disc brake kit up front to the stock chassis?

 

Sure! You're close to me too aren't you?

Stronger frame, cross member, factory engine/tans/rear mounts, power steering, disc brakes, independent front suspension. Im sure there is more too.

What has made you wish you had a factory frame?

 

Just remember that newer frame has more engine set back then your F1 frame. So you'll have to either modify you firewall ( one huge firewall recess, depending on engine ) . Or move the engine and transmission forward. And that wonderful twin I-beam suspension is expensive to modify if you ever want to lower the ride height at all. And they also seem to like to eat front tires too.

There are just a lot of things that have to be modified or changed around that you just don't consider when contemplating the chassis swap. It's not just making a couple brackets and bolting the body onto the newer chassis. It would have been much easier and quicker to just adapt the newer drivetrain parts to the original frame.

 

Let me ask the questions:
Is the original F1 frame not strong enough?
Does a new crossmember warrant all the work that comes with it?
The F-1 has factory engine mounts...and how difficult would it be to fabricate or buy the mounts needed for a later model engine?
Is a frame swap the only option, or even the best option, for getting an IFS? Especially one that doesn't fit the track width of the truck?

I read Bobs build notes and looked at all the photos. To me, all I see is a multitude of reasons why anyone should NOT do a frame swap. Cutting frame rails to remove width, welding in crossmembers that were cut from the original frame, notching for cab mounts, on and on... Did you notice how the engine height varied from the early photos to the later ones? How about the Ranchero floor graft and the obstruction of the engine/trans? All this to get to the end and have tires/wheels that stick out of the fenders!

The OEM frame is just fine, plenty strong...maybe too strong based on todays standards. For less than $2K you can buy a nice MII IFS with power disk brakes and power steering...and it's the correct width for the truck. Buy a late model Explorer 8.8 rearend with posi and disk brakes for a couple hundred bucks (even $225 here in high-priced SoCal) and you're good to go.

I guess that I can't get over how infatuated some folks get over the need to swap frames...sorry for the rant but these discussions pop up regularly and even though I know that nothing I say will change anyones mind I'll say it anyway. Because at some point in time when you have given away your stock frame and you are fed up with measuring brackets, cutting, welding, and all the "oh *****s"...you'll remember those of us who told you that it was a bad idea.

 

I am doing a coe on 81 chevy c20...Its a MAJOR B I T S H...
But I didnt have a frame otherwise I would have used that...
But the frame was free and I like challenges
I agree with these guys save time with stock frame

 

I can see the frame swap if you want to build a heavier tow vehicle and plan to haul some heavy loads. Then it is worth the effort to get the stronger more modern frame. But on a F1 or F100 it takes a lot of work to fit the body to the newer frame and have it look right. The older body doesn't match the contours of the newer frames.

I'm mounting my 54 F100 body on a 78 F150 4x4 chassis. Mine is going to require a 4" body lift to work and I'll still need to fabricate custom front inner fender panels.

I was one of the guys that didn't want to listen to all those naysayers when I was asking about a frame swap. Now I understand what everyone was trying to get across to me. I think my truck is going to turn out great. But it is a lot more work then I thought it would be.

We aren't trying to discourage you. We are just trying to help you so your build goes as smooth as possible.

 

Well you are!

I just like the strength of factory stuff, and I'm not a big MII suspension supporter.
But I do like the idea of power steering, disc breaks, and coil springs.

I plan on using the truck often, for long drives, and to tow my jet ski. Not a 1948 grocery getter.

Ill give it some more thought. With the other F-1 I have, I might consider a frame swap and a flat-bed. Perhaps Ill make the one Ive been working on to use original frame & what not, and see what I can do with the parts truck.

iwanaflattie > If you're interested in the parts truck's frame, let me know.

 

I was more interested in that pretty one you been working on (hehe sorry Im evil) But my buddy wants to go with the jag route and I already have a frame for that,I tried convincin him to go stock but...
thanks tho.

 

Since you or from California with a frame swap how hard will it be to make it legal. I would imagine what ever motor frame combo you pick the rest of the truck would have to meet this spec.
I had a 89 setting in the yard I could had used after using the tape the more I looked and measured the bigger the job got. I sold the 89 and used the money on a new bed.
It's up to you what you want to do. If you do go for it take a lot of pictures.

 

Well, you make it legal before you swap the frame.
You have to get the vehicle ID'd, they will look at the cab and frame numbers, if they match, they will give you a clean title.

Once that is done, they you can put whatever frame you want under there and just don't tell them.

Its my understanding that if any vehicle has a different frame, it needs to be issued a salvage title, or rebuilt title. Whichever way, screw that.

 

If you have a torch,welder and a junkyard,,,ANYTHING is possible..
Good luck.

 

All the trucks (at least the 1/2 tons) from '73-'79 are 4" wider at the rear of the frame vs. the front of the frame. Supercab, Std. cab Longbed, Std. Cab Shortbed, Crewcab, etc... That's why the rear axles are not directly swapable into our stuff, because the frame being 4" wider changes the spring pads on the housings 4" wider. The trasition happens just aft of the rear cab mounts. The rear cab mounts on a Super Cab are a bit different (location wise) from the std. cab. I believe this held true for the crew cab aswell.

If any frames at all, i'd look at 67-72s or 65-66 for the Twin I beam. Still is gonna be a ton of work setting up all the Cab mounts and gettin the front clip to sit down on that frame right. If you have the time, patients, and skill, I'm sure it could be done.

If it were me, i'd keep the stock frame. I don't know what you have against the Mustang II front end, but there is hardly anything stock about these frontends. They are very much modified from stock configurations and very stout and improved units. You can also use Volare and if you wanted a big brake option, the newer Crown Vic frontends from what i read are easily swapped in.