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ignition problem

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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #1  
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ignition problem

I'm trying to start up my 223 engine and i'm running into an ignition problem. I get spark from the coil but not from the distributor.

I have new spark plug wires and rotor. Upon looking at the distributor cap it looks fine.

I'm thinking it might have something to do with the points that open and close within the distributor. Do i need to time these somehow? How should they properly be working?

Also i believe the spark coming from the coil is a bit weak, i have a multimeter. How would i be able to test the voltage? What voltage would a good ignition coil put out? I'm kind of new to this stuff.

Thanks for your time
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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First of all, the voltage spike from the coil will not be readable on an average multimeter. So don't try.

The timing is important, so to check it you want to have the points opening when the correct plug gets the spark. For Top Dead Center manual setting for plug number one, follow this simple procedure.

To set the timing at TDC (0 degrees) with the engine off, turn the engine by hand until the pointer is aimed at the "bump". Pull the distributor cap. Loosen the distributor. Turn the ignition on. Start with the distributor at full retarded and slowly advance it. When the points spark, stop turning the distributor and lock it down. No timing light needed. Your truck should start if it was a timing issue, and you can refine that timing afterwards with a light if needed.

And invest in a Shop Manual for your truck. They're about $30 and it is money well spent.

Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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I've already set the ignition timing, the way i did this was by pitting out an old spark plug and running a hose through it to a can of oil. Cranked the engine by hand until the hose stopped putting out air. adjusted the distributor to fire on 1.

Is this method fine?

I do have a shop manual. It states that if i get spark from the coil and none from the spark plugs the problem is within the cap, rotor or wires. But i don't see anything wrong with these.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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when i had that prob on my 239 it was the wire that goes from the coil into distr and to the points, easy to short out under the plate.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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When you say you have spark at the coil, do you mean if you crank it, you get multiple sparks as the points open and close?

Did you have the hose and plug arrangement on #1 when you were checking for TDC? Doesn't your engine have a timing tab on the front pulley, too?

How are you checking for spark at the plugs? Laying a connected plug on the engine? was it grounded?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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I get multiple sparks coming from the coil to the first spark plug, i'm using this tester i got off amazon

Still don't know why i cant get a spark off the distributor
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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If the ignition coil is too weak can this be the problem? when i tested the coil, the spark looked relatively weak.

I kinda got shocked by it too Lol, barely got a jolt outta of it. I thought it would have been more strong.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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It must be getting spark "off the distributor" if it is getting all the way to the #1 plug?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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i ran the coil straight to the first spark plug, skipped the distributor.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mentadentt
I'm trying to start up my 223 engine and i'm running into an ignition problem. I get spark from the coil but not from the distributor.

I have new spark plug wires and rotor. Upon looking at the distributor cap it looks fine.

I'm thinking it might have something to do with the points that open and close within the distributor. Do i need to time these somehow? How should they properly be working?

Also i believe the spark coming from the coil is a bit weak, i have a multimeter. How would i be able to test the voltage? What voltage would a good ignition coil put out? I'm kind of new to this stuff.

Thanks for your time
The points need to have the right gap when at the top of a dist cam lob. That looks to be .024-.026 according to the attached chart. The other thing is the condenser. It is cheap. I'd just replace it along with the points if they look the least bit pitted.
 
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35-51distspecs.pdf (1.09 MB, 196 views)
File Type: pdf
49-53 distspecs1.pdf (925.8 KB, 259 views)
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Take a test light, attach one end to ground take the other end and hold it to the arm on the points. With the key on turn the engine over while watching the light, it should go on and off while the points open and close. Like said above if you haven't already changed the points and condensor do so. These engines are fairly simple so if the timing is correct, you have spark and fuel it will run. You might try some starting fluid once you make sure your timing is correct and you determine you have spark. Good luck.

Paul
 
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