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Would you post the part numbers you used for your X and C code springs?
Stock rear Excursion blocks, correct?
Thank you.
Originally Posted by jeeplj8
results are very good. The truck sits level with front x code, rear c code. maybe a little rear high, looks very stock. I did not use any of the ex springs packs.
Couple notes, the rear c codes mangled my mbrp exhaust a little. the bottom overload spring will hit the exhaust at full droop.
the front x codes feel just right. the Ex now corners much flatter, and the ride is so much better than my worn out springs. The truck is easier to control and feels more stable.
one last thing, I would guess i got between 4-5 inches lift. These will of course settle pretty quick, probably end up with 3-4 inches of lift.
I didn't see it in the thread but do you have 265's and can you take a measurement from the ground to the fender lip (taken from the center of hub). Just one side please.
I didn't see it in the thread but do you have 265's and can you take a measurement from the ground to the fender lip (taken from the center of hub). Just one side please.
I think we need to start getting measurements from the center of the wheel hub to the fender lip. That would take some of the tire variability out of the mix. All these measurements from the ground to the fender are meaningless to me because I'm not running a factory size tire, and I know i'm not the only one..
I completely agree however, that's how most on the board have been doing it. The correct (the way Ford does it) way is to measure the distance from the stop to the frame since jounce bumpers changed over the years. Also this negates any sag in the body mounts/placement of frame mounts.
Originally Posted by copracr
I think we need to start getting measurements from the center of the wheel hub to the fender lip. That would take some of the tire variability out of the mix. All these measurements from the ground to the fender are meaningless to me because I'm not running a factory size tire, and I know i'm not the only one..
I completely agree however, that's how most on the board have been doing it. The correct (the way Ford does it) way is to measure the distance from the stop to the frame since jounce bumpers changed over the years. Also this negates any sag in the body mounts/placement of frame mounts.
I'm good with that. It's repeatable and verifiable...almost scientific, lol. Looking at "my rig is at 40 inches" just becomes meaningless once you take off the factory tires.
Hey Jeep that thing looks great! I was just at my local spring shop and told them what I wanted to do(same as you) and they were trying to convince me the ride would be terrible. Maybe I'll bring in my laptop and show them the post so they know I'm not crazy....well... in a matter of speaking.
How long did the rears springs take you and what did you have for tools? Were you doing it in a shop with a lift or in a garage with a jack and jackstands? The reason I am asking is I plan on replacing my springs with used c codes I picked up. I am somewhat mechanical but do not have a torch or air tools. Is this something I can do in my garage without running into something I cannot handle? I have seen several threads on the step by step of the front but have not seen one for the backs. Maybe I am not looking hard enough? Any advice would be great!
How long did the rears springs take you and what did you have for tools? Were you doing it in a shop with a lift or in a garage with a jack and jackstands? The reason I am asking is I plan on replacing my springs with used c codes I picked up. I am somewhat mechanical but do not have a torch or air tools. Is this something I can do in my garage without running into something I cannot handle? I have seen several threads on the step by step of the front but have not seen one for the backs. Maybe I am not looking hard enough? Any advice would be great!
I had access to a full shop. We lifted the truck, strapped the axle to a large tranny jack and then set about undoing everything. we used mostly air tools (the front passenger side bolt you will not have room, must use hand tools and be careful of AC lines). The problem we ran into was that in order to get the rear bolts, you have the drop the shackle holder. The bolt had frozen to the inside of the shackle bushing, so had to get a new shackle from Ford.
I also kept the Ex 2 inch blocks. You can do the whole thing with handtools, and jacks in your driveway, it is just nice to not be on your back.
I've been looking into these same rear springs because i cant find oem B's or C's at any local boneyards...and because i'm cheap and don't wanna part with $400+ for new springs from Ford. I had started a thread on these spring earlier but didnt get much input on people's experiences with them. I'm going to be using low mileage factory V-codes up front and stand to gain at least 2" due to the very apparent sag and the lighter weight of the 5.4 V8 as opposed to the V10 or PSD. Any idea how much lift these aftermarket units will yield with the factory 2" block? I'm looking to achieve a stock-like stance when unloaded. I don't tow so i'm not worried about squat during towing. I suppose i could do a modded version of the rears if necessary...
my rears were 125.00 each plus u-bolts which you should buy anyway. I talked to several people who all said do not re-use u-bolts. they are soft steel and when you torque them they stretch.
for your front, you are going to get a lot of lift. the 5.4 probably weighs around 300lbs less than a 6.o. of course your front is probably not nearly as sagged.
worst case scenerio is you add a leaf to the rear.
Well im pretty much on the bumpstops as it is now. I guess i shouold do the rears first, put the truck back down on the ground and see how much lift i get (and consider that i'd probably lose a bit of it from settling). Then i can decide to do the V's straight up or by adding one leaf to it like someone else here did with their X's.