This is for my 86 F-250 6.9 4-spd Trans.

A year ago or there abouts I had a shop replace the Clutch assembly, turn the FW etc...
Clutch had been telling me for a while she was tired, so when I was about 25 mile from
home she just about crapped out. I was able to limp the 4 miles to a shop.

So now abut a year later, it seems like the T/O Bearing is Chirp...Chirp...Chirp till I just
touch the Clutch peddle, and it goes away. Been hearing it for about a month and half.
Talked to Russ at the shop, and he thought that sounded like the problem. Damed cheap
after mkt parts......Chicom???

I have a new Timken T/O bearing and a new Shift Fork, figured why not just have it just
incase the old one is worn, or probably just throw it in anyway, this thing is 32 years old.

I have a HF 800lb Trans Mission Jack I found on CL list, just a little north or Reno, NV. got
it for $85 and almost bran new. think guy used it maybe one time....yeah...

So now my great lead up to my all important question. I did a bunch of searching but could
not find the answer.
The Slave Cylinder is going to have to be removed, do you wrap some tape or??? around
it to keep the Rod from coming out? Or am I over thinking this?

My plan is...

Drop Drive Line
Pull Shifter out of Transmission (T-18 or 19)
Place jack under Engine.
Remove Spedo Cable, Reverse light plug
Remove Slave Cylinder
Remove Tran Cross Mount
Strap on Trans Jack
Remove Bolts
Roll Jack back
Remove Shift Fork/T/O Bearing.

Install reverse of removal
Grease Shift Fork Pivot point
Grease Trans shaft
Slide it back in, bolt up etc....

Sound about right?


Charlie

 

Climb underneath first and see how much play you have in the clutch fork. If you see it wobbling, it has enough wear to let the TO bearing float and squeal/squeak. Did a whole new clutch assembly for a bad squeal that was still there after doing the install, new fork quieted it right down.

If you're determined on doing the TO bearing too; Yes, you've got the procedure pretty much all lined out properly.

 

Thanks Taylor.
Clutch is year old, it is just the T/O Bearing that is complaining.
Only thing I want to replace. I was concerned about the Slave,
do I just let it hang, or have to hold in the rod with something.


I was just
searching on Google, and found a thread that said to just let it hang.
Looks like the transmission cross mount will be fun to remove...NOT.
We`ll see how it goes tomorrow when it warms up.

I have probably put 20K miles in the past year. I have owned Clutches and gear
boxes my whole life. First on a chirping T/O Bearing. Iam almost 75.

Charlie

 

Let it hang, it's fine where it is after you pop it off. If it ends up in your way for whatever reason, tie wire or a coat hanger will hold it.

I was convinced my TO bearing was my cold squealing for 6+ years maybe, but just ran with it until it got embarrassingly loud. Pulled everything and found the pinion bearing hollowed out with no rollers left, almost every spring on the (maybe original) clutch was snapped in half, TO bearing was crunchy, and in the end the shift fork was so worn it was floppy. These old rigs will run just fine with an almost scary amount of neglect...

Keep us updated as it goes.

 

My throwout bearing has been making that same squeak since I changed it two years ago with the clutch, I've just been letting it ride,

Yes you can just slide the trans back far enough to just change it, just separate it at the forward bellhousing (4 bolts) remove the slave and fork and slide/lower it enough to slide it off and the new one on.

The crossmember is not fun but definitely doable, one of those 90 degree impact ratchets helps out a ton, the nuts are 18mm self locking iirc, which is what makes it a pain.

Timken bearings are a pita to find around here, only source is a tractor dealer, could you drop the part number for me when I finally get around to changing mine?

Be sure to also look the bellhousing over for cracks, if it has any you'll need to drill holes in the end to keep them from getting bigger or get them welded up if there that big, mine was fine until it cracked in half. Had it welded and its been holding ever since

 

I bought the Timken bearing from Rock Auto. It came in a Timken box, but there are no numbers or MFG ID on the bearing.
Could just be reboxed from another supplier. Part# on box is 614014. also the one above the Timken is a SKF with same part#.
There is a made in USA sticker on the box.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,f-250,6.9l+420cid+v8+diesel,1124020,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968

Was 29 this morning, 11am now and the sun is getting to the back of the house on the patio where the truck is. Yeah I can start.

I read about the Bell Housings cracking, I`ll check it. Thanks.

Charlie

 

Thanks for that number! Skf is a great bearing manufacturer as well, iirc they are the ones who patented the all in one wheel bearings used on most trucks from 1990-now
Every timken bearing I've ran across had the numbers stamped on it, along with the name, skf as well so I find that kind of odd

 

Anyone have a link for a good thread/procedure for me to follow to diagnose why my clutch pedal on a 86' 4spd has so much slack in it?
I kinda like it that way, similar to a short throw shifter haha
but don't like being stuck on side of road in the 1 ton.
Also I'm an auto trans raised millennial so can the link be for "dummies"? (did learn 5 SPD manual in an 87 Ranger at age of 13 tho lol)

 

Check the linkage under the dash first, it wears out pretty well.

 

That ball end is called a heim joint, hands down the best upgrade you can do for longevity, I tap them and add a grease zerk as well.

They are made of hardened metal so you will need a name brand tap to make good threads..