Replacing Throwout Bearing
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Replacing Throwout Bearing
I was driving my '66 F100 the other day and noticed the telltale sound of whirring with the clutch all the way in. Time to replace the T.O. bearing. My questions are- Is this something that a shadetree mechanic could tackle? If not, how much labor should I expect to pay for if I take it to a mechanic? Also, if the sound started in the last week, how much time have I got before it goes on me?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by hwsykes
I was driving my '66 F100 the other day and noticed the telltale sound of whirring with the clutch all the way in. Time to replace the T.O. bearing. My questions are- Is this something that a shadetree mechanic could tackle? If not, how much labor should I expect to pay for if I take it to a mechanic? Also, if the sound started in the last week, how much time have I got before it goes on me?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 166
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Did you check to see whether your throwout bearing has a grease zerk? Greasable release bearings were pretty common at one time. My '64 F100, for example, has one.
I've driven much longer than I care to admit with a bad bearing on several occasions, but I'm the first to admit that I set a terrible example in everything I do. Better to replace it ASAP than run the risk off damaging more parts.
It's been quite a few years since I've replaced one, but here's what I remember:
If you have a transmission jack, unbolt the drive shaft, clutch linkage, and transmission, and then roll the transmission away from the bellhousing. Then, you can reach inside the bellhousing and pull the old release bearing out. It's not held in place by much....usually just some light wire hooks to keep it approximately centered in the clutch fork during assembly. You won't need a clutch alignment tool unless you go the extra mile and replace the clutch too, but that's not such a bad idea once everything is apart.
Jim Kozisek
Fort Collins, CO
I've driven much longer than I care to admit with a bad bearing on several occasions, but I'm the first to admit that I set a terrible example in everything I do. Better to replace it ASAP than run the risk off damaging more parts.
It's been quite a few years since I've replaced one, but here's what I remember:
If you have a transmission jack, unbolt the drive shaft, clutch linkage, and transmission, and then roll the transmission away from the bellhousing. Then, you can reach inside the bellhousing and pull the old release bearing out. It's not held in place by much....usually just some light wire hooks to keep it approximately centered in the clutch fork during assembly. You won't need a clutch alignment tool unless you go the extra mile and replace the clutch too, but that's not such a bad idea once everything is apart.
Jim Kozisek
Fort Collins, CO
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
If the truck is a V8, the throwout bearing changed in 1971. Originally it came as two pieces, the collar was separate from the bearing. Ford replaced this setup in 1971 with a one piece design (D1TZ-7548-A), and Ford updated the design and the part number again in 1980 (E0TZ-7548-A), and removed the Zerk fitting in the process.
If the truck is a 6 cylinder, Ford still used the separate collar (B7TZ-7561-A) and bearing (C7AZ-7580-A)...and that setup has a Zerk fitting.
There's another bearing there too...the pilot bearing: C2OZ-7600-A for the 6, and D1TZ-7600-A for the V8.
If the truck is a 6 cylinder, Ford still used the separate collar (B7TZ-7561-A) and bearing (C7AZ-7580-A)...and that setup has a Zerk fitting.
There's another bearing there too...the pilot bearing: C2OZ-7600-A for the 6, and D1TZ-7600-A for the V8.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
Typically new clutch kits have a nice little clutch pilot tool included. If not Autozone will loan them free.
If you do not have a trans jack at least have 2 strong friends handy to assist with the takeout and reinstall of the HEAVY transmission.
Garbz
If you do not have a trans jack at least have 2 strong friends handy to assist with the takeout and reinstall of the HEAVY transmission.
Garbz
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: San Diego CA
I looked at your gallery and it appears you have a 3spd column shift. Those aren't too bad a tranny jack is nice but I've mucled in heavier ones. Of course that was when I had more brawn then brains. I have a tranny jack now and use it for the 2.77 tranny in my falcon.
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Of course, I have some experience in the process...but I pulled the tranny out of my 61 on my lunch break one fateful day....and if you still have the column shift, it would be better, cuz I had to wrestle a mickey mouse floor shift...It really isn't that hard a task. If you are gonna tear into the thing, buy a complete clutch kit. It will come with an alignment tool. If you tear into it, spend the extra 30 or 40 bucks and get the flywheel turned. That tranny is not too terribly heavy. On my truck it was easier also, cuz you could drop the clutch parts out the bottom of the bellhousing without removing it.
But for the quick fix, grease that dude up, it will prolly make a world of difference.
ROb
But for the quick fix, grease that dude up, it will prolly make a world of difference.
ROb
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Gettin' ready to re-do the Clutch Release and Pilot Bearings on my '66, as well. Found a T89 BW at the tranny salvage yard, to replace the chewed up gears in mine (1st and 2nd were really mashed, cluster destroyed, bearings "rough"). Went to NAPA to get the bearings and was expecting Pilot to be a brass bushing, but it's not. Is this correct part: a sealed Pilot Bearing? Also, any tips on removal of old Pilot Bearing?
We're not in the restore business w/this F100 (money's tight), but would like to make it run as soundly as possible. I know, I know... I already have all the Drive Line out of the way so a Clutch Kit and Flywheel "turning" seems the prudent thing to do. Any tips are helpful.
We're not in the restore business w/this F100 (money's tight), but would like to make it run as soundly as possible. I know, I know... I already have all the Drive Line out of the way so a Clutch Kit and Flywheel "turning" seems the prudent thing to do. Any tips are helpful.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally = D1TZ-7600-A = bronze (not brass) bearing. Brass is a soft metal, a brass pilot bearing wouldn't last a week.
Ford replaced D1TZ-7600-A in 1978 with: D8TZ-7600-A = sealed needle bearing type.
Ford replaced D1TZ-7600-A in 1978 with: D8TZ-7600-A = sealed needle bearing type.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 11, 2008 at 01:21 PM.
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From: Minneapolis
pilot bearing
Originally Posted by 66tealbod
Gettin' ready to re-do the Clutch Release and Pilot Bearings on my '66, as well. Found a T89 BW at the tranny salvage yard, to replace the chewed up gears in mine (1st and 2nd were really mashed, cluster destroyed, bearings "rough"). Went to NAPA to get the bearings and was expecting Pilot to be a brass bushing, but it's not. Is this correct part: a sealed Pilot Bearing? Also, any tips on removal of old Pilot Bearing?
We're not in the restore business w/this F100 (money's tight), but would like to make it run as soundly as possible. I know, I know... I already have all the Drive Line out of the way so a Clutch Kit and Flywheel "turning" seems the prudent thing to do. Any tips are helpful.
We're not in the restore business w/this F100 (money's tight), but would like to make it run as soundly as possible. I know, I know... I already have all the Drive Line out of the way so a Clutch Kit and Flywheel "turning" seems the prudent thing to do. Any tips are helpful.
Just cut up the soap and stuff the cavity full. You want to get as large a bolt as will fit (on a 302 it's 3/4 with a little grinding on the threads). Stick the bolt in there and hit it with a big hammer. If necessary stuff more soap in there to make sure the cavity in the back of the crank is full. The pilot bearing will come right out.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 18
From: Central Florida
Just found this thread. After putting the clutch back together on my '64 with the 292. My Father in Law and I noticed that we had two options (purchased a second bell housing with the V8 and it came with the TO bearing and arm set) and we've got a nasty sounding TO bearing with a grease fitting, and "sort of smooth" rolling sealed unit. We're debating...try and track down a new one; clean up and re-grease the original; or clean up and hope the sealed unit will be good enough. At the moment, I'm voting for using the original after a good clean up and regrease. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome!
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,049
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From: Seattle
You don't need to find or respond to older threads in order to ask a question. Just click the New Thread button and type it up. Makes it easier for us than reading through an old thread that really has little to do with what you are wanting to know.
And what you want to know sounds like an opinion from someone if you should use either of two worn older bearings that are making some noise already? Depends on how soon you want to open it up again. Not a job I relish so I almost always put in a new TO bearing. Are you trying to save money because it might be the best $20 you could spend this week? Once serviceable bearings are making noises adding grease doesn't always quiet them down. Adding grease after they are making noises is really getting a bit too late to service it properly. Typically done on a calendar basis or mileage basis and not a noise basis. I'd replace the bearing with a new one.
And what you want to know sounds like an opinion from someone if you should use either of two worn older bearings that are making some noise already? Depends on how soon you want to open it up again. Not a job I relish so I almost always put in a new TO bearing. Are you trying to save money because it might be the best $20 you could spend this week? Once serviceable bearings are making noises adding grease doesn't always quiet them down. Adding grease after they are making noises is really getting a bit too late to service it properly. Typically done on a calendar basis or mileage basis and not a noise basis. I'd replace the bearing with a new one.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 18
From: Central Florida
I appreciate the input. I'm leaning towards just picking up a new TO bearing since I have no history on either of these pieces that I have. Of course, none of my local parts houses have anything like this in stock. Suggestions on a good place to order one?