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I am thinking electrical issue as well. I followed ARTFD's advice. I disconnected the white wire from the relay and experienced no change. I then disconnected the yellow wire and Z strap from the relay side of the relay and read no voltage. I then tested from neg of battery to the Zstrap (not connected to the relay) and read the 5 volts that I had been reading.
No, voltage is not the same. 12.6 volts on the line side, only 5 or 6 volts on the relay side. Now, I dont think the GP's are coming on. I think I have a short in the wire to the glow plugs. That short may have burned up another relay.
Q. should the white wire coming to the small post opposite of the ignition wire have a constant ground on it?
What is the "relay side" ... You mean the line out side? (the side that goes to the GP via the Z strap)
Good luck burning up a relay!
If you have voltage in the GP harness (the TWO big wires that hook to the Z strap and go out to the GP's) when they are not connected, you have a short in the GP harness that is back feeding power.
Basically there are two small wires to the relay:
White - Controlled ground from the relay
Red/Grn - KeyOn 12v
The red wire provides 12v to the relays coil.
The white wire is the trigger from the controller, when the controller wants the GP's on, it grounds the white wire ... Thus grounding the other side of the relays coil and energizing the relay which in turn, turns on the GP's.
So no the white wire should not always be grounded ...
Yes, What I am referring to as the "relay side" is the line that the metal Z-bracket is connected to. In the electrical world (not neccessarily auto electrics), the line side refers to the main power supply coming in.
For some reason I have two red wires on the small "key" terminal which only supply power when the key is on. (Which it should be doing.)
On the other small post, I have the white wire.
I have the two constant hot wires coming from the battery on one of the large post, and the metal Z-bracket and a yellow wire on the opposite large post with of course the two glow plug wires landed at the bottom of the metal Z-bracket.
This truck has been in my family for 12 years and has always operated properly . As far as we know, there has never been any "cheezy" wiring or other glow plug issues.
If I wanted to bypass the controller, couldn't I just switch a ground wire to the small terminal that the white wire is on? I'm not sure I want to do that yet, but should it work?
No they are very different, the new style is a black box, the old style looks like a piece of pipe.
The wiring is correct ...
Yes, you can remove the white wire from the relay and ground the relay terminal you removed the white wire from ... With the key on and for NO LONGER THEN 15 Seconds, Better less!
However, if the relay is bad, it won't work!
You finally answered me about the voltages on the two large terminals, if they are not the same when the GP's are activated then the relay is bad.
Do this:
Disconnect the white wire, leave everything else hooked up properly.
Attach the red lead of a volt meter to the large terminal on the relay that has the Z strap, Attach the black lead to ground.
Turn the key on.
With a jumper wire Ground the terminal on the relay you removed the white wire from, FOR NO MORE THEN 15 Seconds, Better less!
If you do not get 12v on the volt meter the relay is bad ...
I will temporarily ground the "white wire" post for a "short" time tomorrow just long enough to see if my gp's will react. That will tell me if my gp's and relay are good, and point in the direction of a faulty controller. If that works, I may install a manual push button switch inside my cab and switch a ground to the relay.
I pulled the white wire from the small terminal and ran a ground to that post. At this time, no wires or Z strap was on glow plug side of the relay. Friend turned the key...and success. 12.56 volts on the post.
I then hooked the metal Z-bracket and the yellow wire back on the post and friend turned the key. Glow plugs came on and truck started right up, then friend quickly turned the key off. At that time, I read 10.2 volts on the relay. The relay also hummed when it was operating.
I guess this means that the relay is fine, but the controller is bad. I couldn't fine any damaged wiring that was visible without taking the whole controller box off.
x2 and x3 with what phy and festus are saying, I know Festus doesnt like manual push button but I do and trust it....used it for a long time on the 84 and never had a single probelm....the engine had autolites in it and they worked til the day i pulled the motor out and found they were swelled in the head....then i became angry and started throwing them when I would pull them out!
The pros:
You have direct control over the time the plug are on.
If you have a couple burned out, you can still get the others hot enough to start.
You don't need the controller.
The cons:
You gotta mount another switch.
You have to explain how to use them to anyone who drives your truck.
If you don't do a primo wiring job & have a short to ground, the plugs will all burn out.
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