Have a 2005 F-350 4x4 SRW 4 door LWB, noticed a week ago the truck "swaying" while changing lanes (real bad at 60mph or higher). Have purchased new tires (stock GY 275-60-20), replaced shocks (MX6 - 4 wheel parts), and in Oct replaced the drag link and tie rod end (from the pitman bracket to the passenger side top) with FORD parts.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
While driving at 55 or 60 and change lanes the truck will sway back and forth two or three time before it stabilizes out?<o></o>
Things that I have checked:<o></o>
REAR<o></o>
leaf springs not cracked or loose<o></o>
lifting blocks tight no signs of movement (been on the truck since 2007)<o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
FRONT<o></o>
2" lifting spacer not damaged<o></o>
all other tie rods look good <o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
<o></o>
Any help would be great!<o></o>

 

Hows the Ball Joints

and the U-Joints on the front axel at each steering knuckle

Thats where I would be looking

Does it seem to want to just keep going the direction that you last steered it and you have to counter steer it to keep straight???

 

Ball joints look good, had a buddy turn the steering while I looked under. Haven't look at the U-joints yet will look at them today. It does not stick, it just sways quite a bit

 

You need to get the front off of the ground to check the ball joints. Have someone pull up and down on the wheel and watch for play.

 

How much play is in the steering box?.

 

sway bar link rods? maybe u jus need to replace the entire sway bar. some folks even put a 2nd stabilizer. it seems to work for them. dunno bout ur setup.

i have noticed over the past year or so tat this kind of problem is very common with the 4 wheel setup. i wonder why it's not as evident on the 6 wheel setup. hmm..... maybe it's 6 wheels?

 

if u need an extra pair of hands to help u, i'd be more than happy to help u out. jus buzz me if u do.

 

Have you replaced the tires lately? Mine has really bad tread squirm with new tires. I like to run 80 psi, but I have to gradually increase pressure as I accumulate more miles starting with about 65 psi.

 

Exactly^^^^^^^^^^

I have found that its easier to also remove the tires especialy if you have never done this before

if you dont remove the tires you still have to overcome the weight of the tire to check them

Then push in and pull out top and bottom try and wiggle it back and forth verticaly there should be NO play

 

Jack it up, put a pry bar under the tire, while lifting up on the bar just watch the ball joints for excessive movement. Easy as pie!

 

The way I saw it done was when I went in for a rotate at the tire store. With the front off of the ground, one guy grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and reefed it up and down, while the other guy looked at and showed me the movement in the top and bottom of the joints.

Basically, there should discernible movement in the joints. However, if ball joints are causing the OP's problem, I would suspect there would need to be pretty significant movement. Mine were bad, moving about 1/4 inch at the bottom and maybe 1/8th at the top, but it wasn't noticeable on the road.

 

P.S. Someone mentioned tires and that is a good point. It would help to know what kind of tire, size, age and how much air pressure you normally run.

 

An 1/8 inch is bad a 1/4 inch is terrible

I will have to try the push up/down thing with a Bar next time

When I do it I check for Play verticaly cuz I can feel it move if its bad no bar or anything to deal with

Im thinking if it moves up and down it will also move side to side

 

275-65-20 GOODYEAR WRANGLER AT/S. Run 65psi. Brand new

 

Tonight I have removed the rear tires, rotors and pulled the axel shafts out and inspected all bearings and hubs look good with no play. All leaf springs, lifting blocks, bolts, and brackets are tight and secure. Tomorrow am going to jack up the front end and go over all connections again.

Still looking for theproblem.