2005 Bad Sway Problem?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Texas City, Texas
2005 Bad Sway Problem?
Have a 2005 F-350 4x4 SRW 4 door LWB, noticed a week ago the truck "swaying" while changing lanes (real bad at 60mph or higher). Have purchased new tires (stock GY 275-60-20), replaced shocks (MX6 - 4 wheel parts), and in Oct replaced the drag link and tie rod end (from the pitman bracket to the passenger side top) with FORD parts.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
While driving at 55 or 60 and change lanes the truck will sway back and forth two or three time before it stabilizes out?<o></o>
Things that I have checked:<o></o>
REAR<o></o>
leaf springs not cracked or loose<o></o>
lifting blocks tight no signs of movement (been on the truck since 2007)<o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
FRONT<o></o>
2" lifting spacer not damaged<o></o>
all other tie rods look good <o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
<o></o>
Any help would be great!<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o>While driving at 55 or 60 and change lanes the truck will sway back and forth two or three time before it stabilizes out?<o
></o>Things that I have checked:<o
></o>REAR<o
></o>leaf springs not cracked or loose<o
></o>lifting blocks tight no signs of movement (been on the truck since 2007)<o
></o>sway bar bushings look good <o
></o>new shocks<o
></o>FRONT<o
></o>2" lifting spacer not damaged<o
></o>all other tie rods look good <o
></o>sway bar bushings look good <o
></o>new shocks<o
></o><o
></o>Any help would be great!<o
></o>
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Hows the Ball Joints
and the U-Joints on the front axel at each steering knuckle
Thats where I would be looking
Does it seem to want to just keep going the direction that you last steered it and you have to counter steer it to keep straight???
and the U-Joints on the front axel at each steering knuckle
Thats where I would be looking
Does it seem to want to just keep going the direction that you last steered it and you have to counter steer it to keep straight???
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Texas City, Texas
Ball joints look good, had a buddy turn the steering while I looked under. Haven't look at the U-joints yet will look at them today. It does not stick, it just sways quite a bit
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
sway bar link rods? maybe u jus need to replace the entire sway bar. some folks even put a 2nd stabilizer. it seems to work for them. dunno bout ur setup.
i have noticed over the past year or so tat this kind of problem is very common with the 4 wheel setup. i wonder why it's not as evident on the 6 wheel setup. hmm..... maybe it's 6 wheels?
i have noticed over the past year or so tat this kind of problem is very common with the 4 wheel setup. i wonder why it's not as evident on the 6 wheel setup. hmm..... maybe it's 6 wheels?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Have a 2005 F-350 4x4 SRW 4 door LWB, noticed a week ago the truck "swaying" while changing lanes (real bad at 60mph or higher). Have purchased new tires (stock GY 275-60-20), replaced shocks (MX6 - 4 wheel parts), and in Oct replaced the drag link and tie rod end (from the pitman bracket to the passenger side top) with FORD parts.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
While driving at 55 or 60 and change lanes the truck will sway back and forth two or three time before it stabilizes out?<o></o>
Things that I have checked:<o></o>
REAR<o></o>
leaf springs not cracked or loose<o></o>
lifting blocks tight no signs of movement (been on the truck since 2007)<o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
FRONT<o></o>
2" lifting spacer not damaged<o></o>
all other tie rods look good <o></o>
sway bar bushings look good <o></o>
new shocks<o></o>
<o></o>
Any help would be great!<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o>While driving at 55 or 60 and change lanes the truck will sway back and forth two or three time before it stabilizes out?<o
></o>Things that I have checked:<o
></o>REAR<o
></o>leaf springs not cracked or loose<o
></o>lifting blocks tight no signs of movement (been on the truck since 2007)<o
></o>sway bar bushings look good <o
></o>new shocks<o
></o>FRONT<o
></o>2" lifting spacer not damaged<o
></o>all other tie rods look good <o
></o>sway bar bushings look good <o
></o>new shocks<o
></o><o
></o>Any help would be great!<o
></o>
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Kansas City MO
Have you replaced the tires lately? Mine has really bad tread squirm with new tires. I like to run 80 psi, but I have to gradually increase pressure as I accumulate more miles starting with about 65 psi.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Exactly^^^^^^^^^^
I have found that its easier to also remove the tires especialy if you have never done this before
if you dont remove the tires you still have to overcome the weight of the tire to check them
Then push in and pull out top and bottom try and wiggle it back and forth verticaly there should be NO play
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
The way I saw it done was when I went in for a rotate at the tire store. With the front off of the ground, one guy grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and reefed it up and down, while the other guy looked at and showed me the movement in the top and bottom of the joints.
Basically, there should discernible movement in the joints. However, if ball joints are causing the OP's problem, I would suspect there would need to be pretty significant movement. Mine were bad, moving about 1/4 inch at the bottom and maybe 1/8th at the top, but it wasn't noticeable on the road.
Basically, there should discernible movement in the joints. However, if ball joints are causing the OP's problem, I would suspect there would need to be pretty significant movement. Mine were bad, moving about 1/4 inch at the bottom and maybe 1/8th at the top, but it wasn't noticeable on the road.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
An 1/8 inch is bad a 1/4 inch is terrible
I will have to try the push up/down thing with a Bar next time
When I do it I check for Play verticaly cuz I can feel it move if its bad no bar or anything to deal with
Im thinking if it moves up and down it will also move side to side
I will have to try the push up/down thing with a Bar next time
When I do it I check for Play verticaly cuz I can feel it move if its bad no bar or anything to deal with
Im thinking if it moves up and down it will also move side to side
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Texas City, Texas
Tonight I have removed the rear tires, rotors and pulled the axel shafts out and inspected all bearings and hubs look good with no play. All leaf springs, lifting blocks, bolts, and brackets are tight and secure. Tomorrow am going to jack up the front end and go over all connections again.
Still looking for theproblem.
Still looking for theproblem.