1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

E350 Motorhome Stalled out

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Old 02-13-2012, 10:21 AM
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E350 Motorhome Stalled out

Hi guys. I posted on here awhile back about my motor home i just purchased. Its an 83 Tioga Motorhome on a E350 chassy with a 7.5L V8. I took it on its maiden voyage this past weekend and as good as it drove up to the pass, I had some trouble getting it home. About half way home it stalled out at a light. I was able to get it started again and drove about 25 miles before it stalled on me on the highway. Just after calling AAA It fired up and i got about 6 blocks from home when it died for good. I couldn't get it to start after about 30 minutes of attempts.

Here is my question... Normally when turning the key to the on position you get a noise that sounds like a pump running (i assume this may be the fuel pump). I am not getting the noise when i turn the key on this time. Does the fuel pump prime the line only or continue to supply fuel to the system when driving? If the pump died while on the road this would explain the stutter and stall.

I will be changing the fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter located?

Your guys help would be greatly appreciated!

A sad photo...

 
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:24 AM
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Sounds like the fuel pump died. It is inside the fuel tank.


How much gas was in it though? Is it pretty common for these older Fords to run out of gas at just a 1/4 of tank, as the plastic fuel pick up tube breaks inside the tank.




And that would be an old carbureted model, I can't remember if they have the same frame rail gas filter as the EFI ones.


But just check underneath, drivers side frame rail, if it's there, it's gonna be a big round can.


Should be under the drivers floorboard.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
Sounds like the fuel pump died. It is inside the fuel tank.


How much gas was in it though? Is it pretty common for these older Fords to run out of gas at just a 1/4 of tank, as the plastic fuel pick up tube breaks inside the tank.




And that would be an old carbureted model, I can't remember if they have the same frame rail gas filter as the EFI ones.


But just check underneath, drivers side frame rail, if it's there, it's gonna be a big round can.


Should be under the drivers floorboard.
It did have a 1/4 tank when it stalled out. If the pump wasn't receiving fuel could that also be the reason for the lack of pump noise when turning the ignition on? I am at work right now, but this evening I will stop off and pick up 5 gallons of fuel. I want to make sure the pump doesn't need to be replaced before i add fuel (since ill have to drain the tank to drop it)

Say the pump needs to be replaced, is it possible to replace the pump with an auxiliary pump for easier repair in the future? Also, is it possible to draw fuel through the dead pump? I would rather hook up a new auxiliary inline fuel pump and avoid dropping the tank if at all possible.

Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:06 PM
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check the free stuff first, like the fuses
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:22 PM
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Ok so I found the fuel pump... (at least I'm 99% sure). I appears that the previous owner has done what I was looking to do... Installed an auxiliary fuel pump to the driver side frame rail. Is the best way to test it by jumping with a 12V DC battery? I don't want to fry it so I just want to double check. If it makes any noise I would assume its fine and the issue is elsewhere. I have attached a few photos of the pump below...

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I purchased a new fuel filter as well. I know the filter is attached to the carb. Can anyone give me some direction to locating it?

Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:16 PM
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i was in the exact same boat as you with my 91 e150.

the tank pump is dead and the aux pump cant keep up the pressure needed.

the constant drain from the main pump has choked the battery out, you'll need a jump to get it running again.

the tank pump will have to be replaced.

Buy Airtex Fuel Pump Sender Assembly E2140S at Advance Auto Parts

requires you to drop the tank to change it out.

while your down there check the tank interior, it may have to be changed out as well.

Buy Spectra Premium Fuel Tank F15B at Advance Auto Parts
 
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by muaddib78
while your down there check the tank interior, it may have to be changed out as well.

Buy Spectra Premium Fuel Tank F15B at Advance Auto Parts
+1 on this suggestion! Even though there are some restoration processes or DIY products nothing beats a new tank if rust or corrosion has formed in the existing tank. Of course it would be a good idea to use a fuel tank sealant. Here's a link for a great product: Fuel Tank Sealer, Gas Tank Sealer, Hirsch Tank Sealer - HirschAuto.com

There are others available through a Google search for "fuel tank sealer" IF you're faced with replacing the tank.

Also Airtex is/was OEM for in-tank fuel pumps and Advanced Auto has about the best prices I've seen. Order online for local pick up.
 
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:17 AM
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This RV should have come with two fuel tanks. The rear tank would have a three tube fuel pump so you can have fuel for the generator if it came out with in-tank fuel pumps.
Check the drivers side of the engine low on the front for a engine driven fuel pump.
If it has one it may have been bypassed.
My 1983 Class "C" came with the engine driven fuel pump and no electric in-tank pumps with two fuel tanks. The fuel filter should be screwed into the front on the carburetor.

If it came out with in-tank pumps then the wiring for them has two relays, an oil pressure switch. If you did hear the pumps running before and it had the in-tank pumps then all of the factory wiring has been bypassed as you should not hear the pumps run when you first turn on the key. The factory pumps were powered by the starter solenoid while cranking and an oil pressure switch while running.
 
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:30 PM
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Well while testing voltage to the AUX pump I found the wire powering the pump to be loose. pushing it in made for a good connection and it kicked on and fired right up!

BUT... Now I have what sounds like an engine tick in the passenger side valve cover. Out of nowhere... It didn't tick before stalling out. Any ideas?

Im still looking to change out the fuel filter so i attached a few photos of where the fuel lines tie into the front of the carb. Is it A or B? Or if neither where should i be looking?
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:36 PM
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There should be a small filter in A and as far as B goes I have no idea...The ticking noise could be a few things..I would add some Combustion Chamber lubricant / cleaner to the fuel system and check the distribiutor cap/ rotor for wear and even spark plugs could be suspect....
 
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:02 PM
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"B" is the hot fuel (vapor) bypass back to the fuel tank.

The way it was from the factory:


/
 
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:41 PM
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Thank you everyone for the help!

Subford,

Do you have a Belt Diagram to show the location for each belt tensioning? Kind of a long shot but just curious.

Thanks.
 
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ty_Deschaine
Thank you everyone for the help!

Subford,

Do you have a Belt Diagram to show the location for each belt tensioning? Kind of a long shot but just curious.

Thanks.
Yes but I would have to dig it up. Would take a day or so.
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:00 PM
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Hey guys, does the airtex mentioned above 2140s work for most tanks ford had. i have a 22 gallon in the back and an 18 gallon parallel in the mid section.
My ford is a 1985 glendale similar to coachman e350 7.5 v8.


What is the easiest way to drain the tanks?
 
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