Bill - I noted what you said, but didn't understand it. Somehow my slightly-younger brain isn't keeping up with yours. Can you describe that differently, please?

 

The difference in height of the block to the heads. In order for the same brackets and belts to fit, Ford made brackets that would fit on the lower 302 block with the accessories "higher" on the brackets, or with two sets of holes, one to mount the accessories further out and one with them closer in. This being in relation to the heads and crank. Just another way Detroit saved money. The whole logic behind the 351m was to allow a common setup for the 351 and 400 when the 360 and 390 were phased out.

 

Ok, I've got it, I've got it, I've...... bummer! I lost it.

Actually, I think I understand. But, wouldn't the alternator still fit between the ears of the bracket and the bolt go through both ears and the alternator and into whatever hole on the engine? Otherwise the alternator wouldn't be at the same distance away from the block and the pulleys would need to be different, which would defeat the purpose.

(I'd say "I'm slow because I'm old, but I guess I can't use that right now.)

 

My bracket is definitly different than those. I'll take another picture when I get it installed.

 

This is the bracket installed with the bolt in place.

 

1980 - 1986 alternator/smog pump bracket mod with pics:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11180503

 

Dan - I'm home and have looked at the spare small-block bracket I have as well as the one on the 351M, and yours is very different than either of them. So, I don't know what it is nor how it is supposed to mount. But, the way you have it mounted looks reasonable - if the alternator will mount where the long lower bolt is and if the pulleys will line up.

Is that where this whole thing started?

 

Yes, I am almost back to square one. I couldn't get the alt. bolt into the bracket, now I can since cleaning it up. Also the alt adjustment wouldn't let it line up. The adjustment bolt was frozen. I had to take the adjustment arm off the motor and chuck the alternator in a vice to remove the adj. bolt. Unfortunatly I broke the bolt.
Right now I have a broken bolt in the alternator housing. It appears to be a hardened bolt. I'll have to call in reinforcements to get that drilled out. I have it soaking with penetrating oil, but have had no luck with a hammer & punch or a hand drill. I have a friend with a drill press & commercial grade bits. I'll take it to his place tomorrow.

Sometimes simple jobs just go on forever.

 

The real question is if the alternator fits in the bracket and the pulley lines up with the crank pulley. If it does you are good to go. If not, it is time to find another bracket or mount that bracket differently.

As for the broken bolt, I don't believe any of the factory bolts were hardened. I would use heat on the aluminum alternator housing to make it expand, therefore making the threaded hole bigger. Obviously you can't go all out on something you plan to use, but heat all around the hole as evenly as you can before trying to get the bolt out. And, if you have a welder then tack something to the bolt to allow you to clamp to it.

 

I finally got it back together again. That Grade 5 steel adjustment bolt was fused to the aluminum alternator housing. My friend drilled it out and retapped the 3/8-16 threads.

Here is a picture of the assembly.

 

Glad you got it together. By the way, for bolts that go into aluminum I always use anti-seize compound and I've never had problems getting them out. One of the worst is the one that holds the alternator in that bracket as it is open to the elements in several places but is a close fit through the alternator. Just a little bit of corrosion makes it hard to get out.