New problem
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
New problem
My truck died today and it was like it was out of gas. I had replaced the fuel filter a few weeks ago and did it again today hoping that the gas that was sitting in the front tank for 2 yrs may have ruined the first filter. That didn't work. When I replaced the filter today though, fuel sprayed like crazy. This leads me to believe that the fuel pumps are working properly (tried to start it with and keep it going on each tank). I'm now thinking either the Ignition coil or something with the distrubitor. But I really think it's the coil.
How can I check to see if it's the coil, dist., wires, plugs without shocking the hell out of myself as I have a friend who did that on his 5.0.
Any other thing I should look into?
Sorrry for the long post:
Pete
How can I check to see if it's the coil, dist., wires, plugs without shocking the hell out of myself as I have a friend who did that on his 5.0.
Any other thing I should look into?
Sorrry for the long post:
Pete
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
New problem
That's not a long post. 
Get a Haynes manual - it tells exactly how to diagnose the whole ignition system, including the coil. It might also be the fuel pump - my mother's Grand Marquis did that last weekend (even the spraying part) and it was a dying FP. A fuel pressure gauge is only ~$25 at Sears.
Get a Haynes manual - it tells exactly how to diagnose the whole ignition system, including the coil. It might also be the fuel pump - my mother's Grand Marquis did that last weekend (even the spraying part) and it was a dying FP. A fuel pressure gauge is only ~$25 at Sears.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
New problem
It sure felt like I typed a lot. 
I have the Haynes manuel and the chiltons, but I didn't know if anyone knew any special "tricks of the trade". Is there a fuel pump in each tank or just one for both? The reason I ask is because neither tank works and if there was a pump in each tank, then it would probably work right?
I have the Haynes manuel and the chiltons, but I didn't know if anyone knew any special "tricks of the trade". Is there a fuel pump in each tank or just one for both? The reason I ask is because neither tank works and if there was a pump in each tank, then it would probably work right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
New problem
You have a pump (low-pressure) in each tank AND another (hi-press) on the frame rail under your floorboard. They're all controlled by the inertia switch, which is either in front of the brake pedal on the firewall under the steering column, or inside the R kick panel. Does it still spray from the fuel rail if you open the schrader valve?
Have you pulled the codes?
Have you pulled the codes?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 772
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
New problem
Schraeder valve is same working as a bicycle tire or car tire valve. Poke the little stem in the middle, it goes down, air (or in this case gas) come out under pressure.
And yes it's on the fuel rail.
It sounds more like something on your electrical side went out.
Timing light is good for rough check to see if spark available. Attach to spark plug wire and crank. If you get a flashing light when you pull the trigger, then you got spark.
Double check all your connections (work outward from distributor) for wetness. If wet inside, spray with silicone spray or silicone grease and wipe off excess. then reassemble. This includes plug wire towers, all connectors to distributor, coil and control box, fuse panels, computers, etc. Also check for corrosion at the computer connections. Clean and coat with silicone grease (di-electric).
go by the trouble shooting guide in the Haynes and Chiltons (what one doesn't have the other one usually does) manuals for procedures.
Hope this helps.
Larry
And yes it's on the fuel rail.
It sounds more like something on your electrical side went out.
Timing light is good for rough check to see if spark available. Attach to spark plug wire and crank. If you get a flashing light when you pull the trigger, then you got spark.
Double check all your connections (work outward from distributor) for wetness. If wet inside, spray with silicone spray or silicone grease and wipe off excess. then reassemble. This includes plug wire towers, all connectors to distributor, coil and control box, fuse panels, computers, etc. Also check for corrosion at the computer connections. Clean and coat with silicone grease (di-electric).
go by the trouble shooting guide in the Haynes and Chiltons (what one doesn't have the other one usually does) manuals for procedures.
Hope this helps.
Larry
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Independence, MO
New problem
I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. They needed it badly, but it didn't fix the problem. I just thought of something...maybee I just blew a fuse or something? I'll have to check that out. I did the EEC self test thing where I grounded the fuel pump terminal. I could hear it making the noise so I think it's working. This is becoming a huge pain in the *** to figure out.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
New problem
The schrader valve is blowing air on both tanks only when I prime the pumps with the eec tester. When I just turn the key and the pump primes, no air comes out of the schrader valve. The same thing happens no matter what tank it's on. Could it be the high pressure pump? I'm pulling my hair out because of this!!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
New problem
Check that you hear the high (external mount) and the low (internal mount) pressure pumps at the same time when you turn the key or use the fuel pump test port . I had the same problem.
I hooked a wire to the test port and the other end into the hood spring for ground. I walked around the vehicle and listened for two pumps running, switched tanks and listened again. In my case, I found the front tank pump failed , ( still out) so i am using the rear tank until it fails. If you find a low pres. pump that is working, you can hook it directly to the high pressure pump ( you will need a couple feet of low pres. fuel line and a splice connector) This should get it running, but if the tank is low on gas, it may die going uphill when the gas is away from the pick-up. If bypassing the selector valve works,replace the valve.
BTW, Disconnect the door buzzer under the dash to make it easier to hear the pumps under the truck.
Good luck!
I hooked a wire to the test port and the other end into the hood spring for ground. I walked around the vehicle and listened for two pumps running, switched tanks and listened again. In my case, I found the front tank pump failed , ( still out) so i am using the rear tank until it fails. If you find a low pres. pump that is working, you can hook it directly to the high pressure pump ( you will need a couple feet of low pres. fuel line and a splice connector) This should get it running, but if the tank is low on gas, it may die going uphill when the gas is away from the pick-up. If bypassing the selector valve works,replace the valve.
BTW, Disconnect the door buzzer under the dash to make it easier to hear the pumps under the truck.
Good luck!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
New problem
If your fuel rail has ANY air in it, you have a fuel pump or line problem. There should be NO way for any of the pumps to get ANY air, but if the short line inside the tank dry-rotted & split, I guess it could happen. Find out WHERE the air is getting into the fuel system and WHY the in-tank pumps aren't spraying gas out of the leak.