well I am tired and exhausted of searching and trying different trouble shooting tips. I have an 05 w/ 155k. It has been running fine and about 2 weeks ago i had a no start condition and when i went back to pick it up i tried starting for the heck of it and it fired right up and been running great ever since. Yesterday it done it again this time it didnt start back up and I had to have it towed home.

Things Ive tried so far:
1: checked FICM voltage and it reads 48-49 volts during the whole starting process. If the FICM voltage is fine, can the FICM relay still be the problem??

2. Of course checked all fuses.
3. Done step 19 on the "no start checklist" stickie, but when i remove the #302 fuse (PCM) the truck wont turn over. As soon i plug the 302 back in it fills the fuel bowl up.
4. Reset the fuel cut off several times.
5. pulled codes and all I got was a P0528.....something about clutch fan
6. Performed step #12. doing a long crank to see if oil pressure will register on the dash.....and it does.
7. Just recently changed oil, filter, both fuel filters, air filter so I am pretty sure that none of those are suspects.

I am having a hard time getting to ICP sensor nor can i find a post with good pics of its location. Please, any thoughts on where I should turn to next!! I thought about taking it to the dealer and paying for the diagnostic and then fixing myself, but its a hassle and pricey to have this thing towed all over town. I know that somewhere these issues have been covered and i have wore the search button out looking. Just want to advise to my specific application. Thanks in advance.

 

It's possible, but not a cut & dry proof with the FICM. If the voltage had been dropping or low I would agree wholeheartedly. Might check the three plugs on the bottom of the FICM to confirm they're not the issue.
Check for chaffing around the wiring on the fan shroud. Driver's side of the engine...possible the wires have been chewed up by a varmint.That helps to confirm that you are getting oil up to the top of the engine. With out an acutal HPO pressure (from the ICP) hard to confirm it's an HPO fault...sounds like STC but I've never heard of one going 155k miles before turning loose.As long as they're OEM spec you should be ok here. Ford/Navistar/Racor....nothing else.
For the '05 trucks, look on the passenger side valve cover ahead of the oil fill tube/behind the Alternator.Might check your local FTE chapter to see if there is someone near you that owns an AE that could help you out.Georgia Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

hey thanks a ton for the detailed response. i will put that icp and checking those FICM connections on my to do list for tomorrow. A far as my HPOP goes, i failed to mention that it did give up the ghost a long while back while still under warranty. i want to say it was around 50k miles.

 

If you don't have a scan/dianogstic tool, you can troubleshoot the ICP by unplugging it. If the ICP is at fault the truck will start on a default setting. Also, check for oil in the harness of the ICP.
What was replaced? The HPOP or STC fitting or both? Most STC fittings that fail in '05 trucks are between 60k and 80k miles.

 

Sounds like zhilton has you going in the right direction. Good luck.

 

you know, i am not sure what all was replaced. at the time it was under warranty and didnt cost me anything so i didnt pay that much attention to what all they had done. i have a scan tool but all it does is provide me with codes. it is an old superchips handheld that is vin locked to someone else vehicle so i just use it to get codes.
in the previous post you mentiones someone close by that ma have an "AE". Pardo my ignorance but what is an AE?
I will check back in tomorrow with my findings. thanks again!!!

 

Auto Enginuity. Software for diagnosing your problems. Our trucks require the Ford Enhanced bundle along with the software. I'm in Georgia and own the software.

 

I'm not a fan of tuners that read codes...but I'm strange that way. You could always stop by the dealership that did the warranty work and ask for an Oasis report for your truck. May need to take your VIN in so they have the right truck...but an Oasis report will list ALL work done to your truck by a Ford/Lincoln/Merc dealership. If they give you some crap about it, might step into the parts department and buy an oil filter in exchange for the report. Yeah, some dealerships rape you on the parts...but that report is loaded with all kinds of information.AE = AutoEnginuty, basically it's what us mere mortals can buy to do dealership troubleshooting on the PSD (PowerStrokeDiesel). In a nutshell, the PSD equiped trucks may have a OBD (On Board Diagnostic) port under the dash, but they use a hybird system of data logging. Thus most OBD based code readers have a hard time getting codes related to the engine. They may/may not be able to see chassis related codes. At $360, most folks have a hard time buying just to read codes. Thus why I suggested to check & see if there is someone near you that has an AE...needs to have the Ford Enhanced Bundle to read all PSD codes.

 

hey good ole buddy ole pal.......ever find yourself down on the southside? i have a case of your favorite brew with your name on it

 

Here is a copy of my oasis report. check out the last topic. a lil of it was on a second page but only says that things were set to latest calibration and steam cleaned blah blah blah. It appears that it wasnt even the HPOP that went bad on me but maybe a fitting and blown loose. I havent pulled the ICp harness yet to try and start but i did visually look and there are 2 plugs where you described it to be. There is one plug that is actually on the valve cover in front of the oil fill and one plug directly behind the alternator that doesnt appear to be on the valve cover. Either way, neither of them are oily or greasy in the least bit, just a little dust.

 

Did you ever unplug the ICP harness on the valve cover and try and start it? If you have a multimeter you can check voltage there to see if you have enough oil pressure to fire the injectors. You need at least 500lbs, which shows up as .83 volts. Probe the grey/red harness with the ground lead, and the dark blue/light green with the positive lead (leave the harness plugged into the ICP) and check voltages.

 

thats on my to-do list for tomorrow. thanks for the input
in a way i hope thats the prob and in a way i dont! its a time consuming and pricey job but i am tired of chasing down problems. of course a bad crank/cam sensor would be nice!

 

The ICP will be the one that goes into the valve cover. I'd forgotten what the voltage is if you used a multimeter...I use the AE.

The last thing on the bottom of the page is the STC fitting, replaced at 52k miles. So you should be able to rule that out since you should have gotten the updated verision that's allot better.

 

ok, i probed the ICP wires and i got .2 volts during key on and between .6 and .7 volts during crankiing. not looking good there!! HPOP? like i mentioned in my intial post i had a no start condition a couple weeks ago and after sitting a few hrs it started back up. i would think a HPOP would just fail all at once and not come back to life. please correct me if i am wrong.

 

IMO your fan code could be your starting issue and your HPO numbers are not looking good either

I dont know why but the fan circut compleates the ingnition circut they are directly tied together

look at this pic aree the wires damaged here