I want to take care of the *UNKNOWNS* for the EX...
#1
I want to take care of the *UNKNOWNS* for the EX...
Hello FTE!
I am hoping that I can get some good input about the fluids to use in the EX. I received my Income Tax money and as much as I would love to buy mods for the EX I have decided to take care of the *UNKNOWNS* for my Hera since the adoption. I want to do flushes and put in the best of the best. I have completed an oil change only so far, so that *UNKNOWN* is now known and I went with what I saw recommended most here on FTE. I know that I should go with synthetics with the miles that I have on my Hera. Below is Hera's information and the list in the order that I will probably attack them and what I have may already replaced or what I have heard is good and/or any questions of what I may have read about the recommendation.
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 4WD 6.0L PSD - last change 138,140 miles
Transmission 5-Automatic (TorqShift) 5R110 - last change 108,000 miles
All of the rest of the drive train and other components are stock and I do not know when or what they have in them... *UNKNOWNS*
Total miles as of today: 139,300+ miles
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Thanks in advance for your input...
I am hoping that I can get some good input about the fluids to use in the EX. I received my Income Tax money and as much as I would love to buy mods for the EX I have decided to take care of the *UNKNOWNS* for my Hera since the adoption. I want to do flushes and put in the best of the best. I have completed an oil change only so far, so that *UNKNOWN* is now known and I went with what I saw recommended most here on FTE. I know that I should go with synthetics with the miles that I have on my Hera. Below is Hera's information and the list in the order that I will probably attack them and what I have may already replaced or what I have heard is good and/or any questions of what I may have read about the recommendation.
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 4WD 6.0L PSD - last change 138,140 miles
Transmission 5-Automatic (TorqShift) 5R110 - last change 108,000 miles
All of the rest of the drive train and other components are stock and I do not know when or what they have in them... *UNKNOWNS*
Total miles as of today: 139,300+ miles
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
- Engine Oil: Shell Rotella Synthetic
- Transmission fluid: *Royal Purple Max ATF - read about in the forums, but also read that not to go with anything other than Mercon SP or risk damage to the 5R110. If that is the case is there a particular brand of the Mercon SP to go with? (This will be the first one that I will do and Pep Boys has the clean and flush for $129.99 w/ out filter and $159.99 w/ filter and they use Pennzoil Mercon SP.)
- Engine Antifreeze: *Shell Rotella ELC - read about in the forums
- Power Steering fluid: *UNKNOWN*
- Brake fluid: *UNKNOWN*
- Differential fluid: *UNKNOWN*
- Windshield Washer fluid: *Rain-X - read about in the forums
Thanks in advance for your input...
Last edited by hardRESET; 02-09-2012 at 10:49 AM. Reason: added where I am located as that may affect viscosity concerns
#2
#3
Mobil 1 75-140 full synthetic for front and rear differentials. While you have the fluid drained, take the opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum rear diff cover off of the 2008 and newer trucks. It is a direct bolt on and keeps the rear end cooler due to the cooling fins. Also won't rust out like the steel ones.
#4
Mobil 1 75-140 full synthetic for front and rear differentials. While you have the fluid drained, take the opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum rear diff cover off of the 2008 and newer trucks. It is a direct bolt on and keeps the rear end cooler due to the cooling fins. Also won't rust out like the steel ones.
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#8
Mobil 1 75-140 full synthetic for front and rear differentials. While you have the fluid drained, take the opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum rear diff cover off of the 2008 and newer trucks. It is a direct bolt on and keeps the rear end cooler due to the cooling fins. Also won't rust out like the steel ones.
-You'll need 75w140 for the front and rear diffs, they come in Royal purple, but you'll probably need to hit up a few parts stores and they only have 1 or 2 bottles worth.
-The transfer case is the same transmission fluid you put in your trans. The top bolt is the fill, the bottom bolt is the drain.
-The "Powersteering Fluid" also happens to be transmission fluid. Some Mobil 1 synthetic fluid keeps it and the transfer case happy.
-Engine antifreeze, be it Shell Rotella or Chevron's stuff it's a good choice. The only other thing I would add is a coolant filter: http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx This will prevent a nasty chain reaction from happening and save you a huge headache in the long run.
-Brake fluid is brake fluid, most shops can flush it out for a reasonable cost.
#9
Clarification please...
Toreador_Diesel, so on this quote you are saying to use the same for Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Steering, and you are recommending Mobil 1 Mercon SP for all 3 or is the Pennzoil alright?
#10
It'll cost a pretty penny, but your truck will show you some serious love for it.
#11
Call me a worry wart...
Sources... (some)
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum - View Single Post - What does the "SP" in Mercon SP stand for?
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showpost.php?p=895002&postcount=2
And there are more than those...
#12
I use Amsoil in mine. And it always looks pretty and clear to me. So I figure something must be going right. The other fluids are not my department. I might check them but I don't know HOW to change them. I was thinking of a detroit locker instead of changing out the cover on the differential. Any of ya'll have those?
#13
I'd think Mobil1 will work fine in the transfer case and power steering. As long as it it a Mercon fluid. But, use only Mercon SP for the tranny. And from what I've read don't use a brand that says "compatible" or has many different quality levels. I'm sure you've read the thread, there is a lot of miss-information to sift through. For coolant just look for ELC and you should be good. I picked up Shell Rotella Ultra ELC. Was pricey at $24/gal(concentrate) but was the only thing in the area at the time.
#15
Kevin, follow your gut on the ATF. That trans is considered pretty dang stout 100% OE. Of course I admit I know very little about transmissions - thats why I went to BTS.
Do a coolant flush, swap to ELC and add a filter if ya don't have one yet. I use CAT ELC and get it at any CAT dealer for about $10/gal pre-mixed. I usually see pre-mixed Rotella ELC at the truck stops - but its $13-15/gal there. You can ask your favorite autoparts if they can get it.
I run Mobil 1 in my PS pump and use synthetic (Mobil 1/Royal Purple in the diffs.
Changing brake fluid is EASY and we should all do this every other year or ANYTIME the fluid is heated up. All you've gotta do is crack the bleeders on the calipers and keep adding brake fluid (DON'T LET IT RUN DRY!!) until it comes out of the bleeders clear. ONLY use brake fluid from a brand new container and just use the whole damn thing. You never want to store 1/2 a bottle of brake fluid...
Another great PM item is to clean and re-lube your caliper slide pins. Be sure to use either high-temp caliper grease or di-electric grease - never axle grease or anti-seize!
Do a coolant flush, swap to ELC and add a filter if ya don't have one yet. I use CAT ELC and get it at any CAT dealer for about $10/gal pre-mixed. I usually see pre-mixed Rotella ELC at the truck stops - but its $13-15/gal there. You can ask your favorite autoparts if they can get it.
I run Mobil 1 in my PS pump and use synthetic (Mobil 1/Royal Purple in the diffs.
Changing brake fluid is EASY and we should all do this every other year or ANYTIME the fluid is heated up. All you've gotta do is crack the bleeders on the calipers and keep adding brake fluid (DON'T LET IT RUN DRY!!) until it comes out of the bleeders clear. ONLY use brake fluid from a brand new container and just use the whole damn thing. You never want to store 1/2 a bottle of brake fluid...
Another great PM item is to clean and re-lube your caliper slide pins. Be sure to use either high-temp caliper grease or di-electric grease - never axle grease or anti-seize!