Oh yeah. It doesn't.

And slam1991, its alot of work to convert from EFI to carb. That's why all the questions, and everything. It might be simpler to fix the EFI than convert. Are you sure the 5.0 EEC was good?

 

And what's wrong with putting a 351w comp back in it? The truck has a 351 correct?

 

yes, its a 351w/5.8 in it , it is going to be a off road/farm truck, and it had been my view that the "efi" dose not hold up well with all that dirt and mudd

 

It's going to be a real hassle to make it into a carb motor. Why not just pull the 5.8 out, and find a mid 70's 460 to put in the truck if its going to just get beat.

 

Are you planning on any mods. Like cam or heads?

To convert the engine you just need a carb intake, carb, and older ignition system. Its more work than it seems.

If it was me I'd keep the 351w. If you are set on converting to carb you will need what I said before, plus a 7 psi electric fuel pump.

I can give you more details on the swap (I have done it before) when you make the final choice.

BTW a 351 with good heads and intake will make close, if not over, 350 hp 400 torque.

 

I got 2 351w pre efi sitting here so i got all the ignition parts i need, and a 2 2barrle intakes on them, dont really have any plans for other mods yet other than a ground up build

 

think you guys might have just talked me out of trying to bringing her back to life

 

Oh well that makes more sense then.

 

would love a lil more info from someone that has done this befor

 

Here is a duraspark II schematic.



Bolt on a carb intake and a carb, install an inline low pressure fuel pump or an adjustable fuel press regulator with the existing pump. Turn the key and plow away! For just plowing and general around the farm grunt work a 2bbl will be fine and they are stupid easy to repair if they give ya trouble.

Dont let all the naysayers get to ya, the internet if full of frightened people! It's really not hard and you said you have parts trucks so fly at'er!

I also have an 88 F250 351/zf5 plow truck that I am going to be doing a carb swap on to, it is a couple projects down the list though.

Scott

 

LMAO really? are you serious?


Scott

 

I'm saying in comparison to just finding out what's wrong with the EFI system it's a hassle. And if it's just going to be beat, I'd rather play with a 460 than a small block. That's just me though.

 

Options #1:
You can get a low pressure pump, and splice it into the fuel line. But you will have to take the high pressure pump out, because the low pressure pump will not push fuel through it, and crimp the return line, if you don't crimp the return line it will just circulate fuel b/t the fuel reservoir assembly and the tank.

Option #2:
If your tank pump and high pressure pump is working, you can get a fuel pressure regulator with a return, and splice it into the fuel lines, where the fuel line and return line end at the engine.

Option 1 &2 allow you to keep the serpentine belt system.

Option #3:
Go back to the older belt system, and manual fuel pump. You will also have to work out some fuel plumbing.

 

I was thinking a 5 gal boat tank and a low pressure pump

 

I have done the EFI to Carb swap on my 88 Bronco w/ 351w. Although it wasnt really just because I wanted to or thought it would be better. The Original Owner..."Attempted" the conversion for whatever reason, Used a Ford Iron 2bbl intake, 4bbl adapter plate for the Edelbrock 600. Still had the PCM in, the TFI dizzy, BOTH low and High pressure fuel pumps running to the carb with a cheapo Mr. Gasket pressure regulator. And a good portion of the wiring harness strewn about or hacked off. Amazingly it would run for about 30 sec on maybe 5 cylinders.(dump some fuel in the carb.) So it was just easier and $-flow efficient to fix and finish it. I converted it to the Duraspark II ignition(Blue tab module)went thru 2 off brands before someone found a Motorcraft one. Rebuilt factory dizzy w/ vacuum advance, which eventually went bad way to soon. and I removed both fuel pumps and replaced with a low pressure(4-7psi) in-line electric one. And used a holley pressure reg and gauge. Set to 6.5psi. Rebuilt the carb. And It ran good. It was a great learning exp. was my 1st carbed ride. And I only paid $1000 for it with only 49000 original miles. But I spent alot of money, most likely more than what the cost of whatever the problem was with the F.I to fix. If you ask me, and Im sure others would agree. If your going to go offoad/mud. a carb isnt ideal...On steep angles, you dont have to worry about fuel starvation w/ F.I. And it doesnt matter whether you truck is carbed or f.i...you get the ignition system wet. you stuck, you get water in the intake/aircleaner and hydrolock the motor. your stuck. I plan on goin back to F.I...but an aftermarket setup, better driveability,mileage, and power. I do plan before to try the Holley Truck Avenger carb. Its supposed to be tuned for low end power and can handle more severe angles. I shall see for myself. Not saying carbs are horrible, they work well...but there is a reason why major car manufacturers all use some sort computer controlled F.I. now. Even Chevy was on to something in the 50's and 60's their "Fuelie" 283s made more power than the carbed Tri-powers...Take it as you will. I would try to fix the problem correctly before doing a complete motor/fuel system swap. Then base your options on price/time involved. If you only have a $50 sensor thats bad, change it and be on your way, but if you looking into a few hundred dollars worth of parts and labor into a tired motor. then maybe it would be worth the time to do the swap. Its your truck,time and money.