Just finished my X code and modified B code spring swap - WOW!!!
Hunter, DDS: regarding your measurements, were they actually from the ground, rather than from the center of the hub?
"Now, with my 275/65/20 tires on and the updated springs, my front sits 42.25 inches to the wheel well measured from the center of the hub. The rear sits 43 inches."
Obviously I'm not the good Doctor Hunter but yes, those measurements were from the ground to the wheel well.
This thread is a great resource for anyone looking to modify their EX suspension, it shows many different setups and the various amounts of lift attained from each. Good stuff!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...easurents.html
"Now, with my 275/65/20 tires on and the updated springs, my front sits 42.25 inches to the wheel well measured from the center of the hub. The rear sits 43 inches."
Stewart
"Anyhow, below are my pre and post pictures. With the X-codes on the front I picked up 2.5 inches of lift. I picked up nearly the same on the rear. Now, with my 275/65/20 tires on and the updated springs, my front sits 42.25 inches to the wheel well measured from the center of the hub. The rear sits 43 inches."

Stewart
Good Job and thanks for the tips
Started at 7:00 this morning. Got finished exactly 4 hours later. Spent several hours this past week on the phone rounding up parts, stopped by the salvage yard to pick up the springs. Also went by the local spring shop and had them custom make some new U-bolts for me. I also got some new center bolts for the modified rear spring packs. Finally I ordered some new bushings from Energy Suspension to place since I was under there. As it turned out, they sent me the wrong size bushings. However, my OEM ones weren't in bad shape anyhow. I think they have a year or two left in them.
Anyhow, below are my pre and post pictures. With the X-codes on the front I picked up 2.5 inches of lift. I picked up nearly the same on the rear. Now, with my 275/65/20 tires on and the updated springs, my front sits 42.25 inches to the wheel well measured from the center of the hub. The rear sits 43 inches.
Before:

After:

Technique:
I have a buddy with a shop and a lift which made life much easier. We put it up on the lift and worked on one axle at a time. On the passenger rear side the only complication we ran in to was having to unbolt and move the rear A/C line in order to get the front spring bolt out. Otherwise the rear was very straight forward.
The fronts were a little more difficult just because we had to remove that low hanging Prius saver from under the front bumper. This had to come off in order to get the front bolts off. Also, on the driver side we had to take the entire shackle off of the frame instead of removing the spring from the shackle. The front drive shaft was in the way and we couldn't get the bolt off to remove only the spring. The front and rear custom U-bolts worked fabulously.
Tips:
1) I would not have wanted to try to tackle this job without air tools.
2) Make sure you have a torch handy as many of my bolts had loc-tite on them and were impossible to get off without torching them. My truck has never seen snow or salt so corrosion was not an issue. If your truck has rusty bolts this will complicate the process more.
3) IMO you cannot safely and efficiently do this by yourself. You really need another person, especially to remove the old spring and to seat the new one in place.
4) I suppose you could do this with a few jacks and jack stands, but having the lift and TALL jack stands was a God send.
5) Instead of buying new springs, look for some low mileage ones at a salvage yard. Also, don't buy U-bolts from the dealer. Dealer cost PER U BOLT was $27. I got custom make ones with higher quality steel from a spring shop for $14 per bolt. My springs were also $50 each from the salvage yard. In total I have less than $500 in this whole process, and $100 of that was for my buddy for his time.
Driving Impression
I am extremely satisfied with this swap. My truck has never ridden so good. On the highway any steering wander is absolutely gone. I tracks straight and true. Expansion joints are no longer a problem. My truck rides firmer perhaps, but better and much more comfortable. Firmer makes one think of harsher, which is absolutely not true. Firmer means you aren't bouncing all over the road. The body of the truck isn't sloshing around like a water bed anymore. I even took a back road home this evening which is really rough, and I was smiling ear to ear going down this road I used to avoid. Now it rides like a very nice riding truck. Sharp curves are more confidently handled. Lane changes are quick and crisp. The X codes gave me enough lift to clear my 34.5" tires. They have some miles on them already so I don't expect them to settle much more.
Final Impression
IMO I am very pleased with the X codes. If I would have gone with new V codes they probably would have been OK for the first while until they settled, then I would have a little too much rake for my liking. With broken in X codes it should sit right where it is for a long time. The ride is absolutely perfect, as is the height with the modified B code swap. With 1" or trailer induced squat I will be nearly level. This combo of springs seems like it was designed for this beast of a vehicle. Best mod I have done to date, which is saying alot. I have now done:
1) 2008 tow mirrors
2) 2007 OEM wheels
3) 275-65-20 michelins
4) Third row headrests
5) A smattering of 6.0 PSD upgrades.
I highly recommend this mod to anybody, whether you are experiencing steering wander or not. I really can't say enough about the new driving experience

Reviving this thread as this is my favorite pic of an XB Swap to date, what size rear blocks was this using?
I did the X/modB swap on mine as well, here are some pics. Thinking of swapping the factory 2” blocks for some 3.5” f250 blocks now. I like the ride a lot, and the look, but the rear does look to sit just a tad lower than the front on level ground.
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