Arrrrghh It could have been a coinsidance but,I proceded to r&r the intake on my F250 7.3 PSW And as soon as I finally had removed all the plastic junk intake air box, old intake filter (K&N) and secured the ait sensor next to fire wall yet close to rear of new 6637 as to hope to allow it to get a half a#★ close temp reading with out drilling out the back. I was complete and put the truck in reverse but, just seconds earlier had reved the motor two mabey three times before shifting into R and it just did not sound or feel right. As if about 3 or 4 injectors were out is the best way to descibe it. I just figured ahh new intake moe air mabey run it down the street and back will clear her up ..??? NOPE as soon as I touched the pedel it waslike blah, blah clutter,cluter (and the whole time sounding as if it was about to throw a rod and zero respone then she stalled, would not restart at all even tryed putting some throddle into it on start ...nothing .... So (today) Day after I changed outoil was getting close 2600 miles figured it couldnt hurt,I also changed the fuel filter and checked bowl screens everything seems normal ... When I did mod I covered the tubo so not to have dust, anything get lodged and sucked into intake upon completion ... One time today it did fire up after several trys but has zero power I had to keep my foot into the pedal to keep it running and even then it slowly (7-12) seconds was florred and slowly went life less and will not restart, but when it did start today was not making that allfull rod knock noise. And for some reason no check engine light but I am still new to this truck less than a year and have not the slightest clue how to pull codes in order to get a idea of where to start?????? Any Ideas, help, sensors I could check with my meter???? Any help would be greatly appreciated .. If I cannot figure this one on my own does anyone know of a (non dealership rip off) diesel mechanic that I can trust around Clarkston, MI. ? I DO HAVE ONE THAT IS IN DETROIT ( SUPERIOR DIESEL) BUT, would like to avoid having to tow her in if somebody has a idea of what I should check and or test to get her up and running ... THANK YOU .. detroitbook2@gmail.com ALSO IF ANYONE IS NEAR ME WITH A SCAN TOOL I WOULD TRADE MY ELECTRICAL SERVICES OR $$$$ FOR A FEW MINUITS OF HOOK UP TO HAVE A LOOK SEE AND RESOLVE MY ISSUE WITH A PLUG AND CHECK

 

Are you throwing codes? I'm located in Oregon or else I'd run a scan for you.

My guess is the ait/baro sensor got unplugged on install of the 6637, I saw a thread like this before and that was the culprit.

 

Welcome to FTE you will learn lots if you hang around.

First and formost. When is the last time the Cam Position sensor was changed and were did it come from? I would go to ford or international and get a new one. Don't go to a parts house as they have a very high failure rate out of the box.
Even the ford ones can randomly fail and cause a no start condition. It's located about 10 o clock on the front of the engine down by the harmonic balancer.

Check fuel pressure while cranking on the schrader valve on the driver side of the fuel bowl with a cheap tire gauge and thick rag to prevent sparying yourself.

Should be 40 - 60. Next there is a small allen head plug in the HPOP reservoir on the front top of the motor. Pull it and check to make sure oil is 1/2'' or so from the top.

There is a sensor on the driver side front of the cylinder head next to the fuel bowl with a 3 wire plug going into it. Unplug it and see if starts. This the ICP sensor.

Then if no change. There are 2 plugs on each side of the engine that go into the Valve cover gaskets. Unplug them and inspect each for broken plastic or burnt or bent pins. These plugs get very brittle over time and could easily have one messed up.

If there is a dead short it will shut down your idm and also can cause it to run on only one side. These are some easy checks.

I wish I had pics but cant get flickr to cooperate with me today. So I'll see what I can dig up in a little bit.

 

Thank you for the starting points to look at. My CPS was replaced less than a year ago and I have another one from the dealer in the glove box .. There definatly is oil in the hpop as seen through the opening in the top, I also pumped out and refiled it with frsh oil when I changed my oil late last night. On my gpr I notice lastly that the large brown wire with the red stripe at gpr and along wire as far as I could follow was really hot. I am not 100% sure but I am leaning towards a shorted cable or wire leading to one of the glow plugs I amgoing out right now to try and unplug that sensor and give her another try for a start then .If no start I am going to check the gp harness at the covers for proper resistance and or shorts??? I will check back in a few and report my findings, BTW does anyone know how to jumper out and where to recover any stored code I am at a loss without a code reader, waswondering if there was a way to get them from jumping out somewhere on the port under passenger side connecter just under dash or if there was another way to get them from flashing the check engine light if so, how??? Thanks Again Tony Martin Clarkston, MI.

 

I know of no way to "jumper" the data port to read codes. It does not go into the flashing mode that I know of. You need a simple code reader or something more sophisticated like an Autoenginuity (A/E). My '96 would not start and then just messing around with different wiring harness etc. it would. Turned out to be the IPR had a broken clip on one side of the plug and kept making/breaking contact. This connector same as inj. from under valve cover wiring. I will email you some manuals that others have shared with me.

 

It may sound like a stupid question but are you positive nothing got sucked into the turbo?

 

BARO sensor is in the cab. It could be the AIT, though. Or maybe you bumped loose either/both of the UVCH's on the left side?

 

IAT wouldn't effect the way it runs, that info is only used to determine when the EBPV opens and closes.

 

WELL, I tryed my best to prevent that from happening while, during and after I removed old intake ...The thought of that has benn bothering me some .I did today tear apart every hose, clamp, tube running from around or into the intake, turbo, and cleaned evey square inch of debris, soot, that I could the entire system was suprizingly clean as from what I thought it would be, I also took a q-tip and cut off the fuzzy end and inspected the turbo spool for nicks or scratches anything and I found nothing that would suggest that anything entered through the turbo. I changed the GPR approx. same time last year and today I had hood up and went to give it a try and my wire from battery going to GPR was exstreamly hot and when I gave it a slight turn to see if connection was loose the darn thing about fell apart and the holding nut was good and tight I believe internally it was, and has not been making a good closed contact so, I am on stand by untill new Stancor arrives ( I was under the impression that these are a slightly more HD version. ) Untill it arrives does anybody know of a decent way to check injectors out for function or a good way to clean them up with out a complete tare down to check each one incase I did suck a little dust or piece of gunk that could have gotton past turbo and lodged in injector or am I looking at a r&r of them if the GPR was smoked due to a bad GP or injector, if the stancor comes and I still have no start up. .. Sorry for the long post ya'll I'm getting a little stressed over this and going on day two of little sleep worring about this whole mess ( I just wanted a little more air for my baby and its turned into sufforcation for me !!) Lol Thank you ALL for your helpfull suggestions and time. I'll post how its looking after I see where I stand upon insttall of new Stancor .........

 

Injectors can be buzzed tested requiring a good code scanner.

I personally run sea foam every now and then (I will fill up fuel filter with this and run it) and then some in the tank. I also run Diesel kleen white, diesel kleen silver, tcw3 ashless. I usually run a mix of the last 2, and then the white during real cold temps. I run seafoam a bit but not nearly as much as the last 3.

 

Hey sir, I checked my email at detroitbook3@gmail.com and for some reason I did not see any of the info.,manuals you sent if it would not be to much bother could you attempt to send them again I really could use all the info I can get ... THANK YOU VERY MUCH :-)
Tony Martin

 

I little dirt or soot isn't what I was thinking as that's not going to cause a major problem what I was thinking more like a piece of plastic or rag. As for GPR I use GPR111 from napa on my truck and several others with no problems.

 

Tony, I was out for a while, the first post you gave detroitbook2, I have sent it a few minutes ago to the 3 address. Let me know.

 

Thank you 540 for the help .. I did recieve the information and it will help ALOT.. Ordered new GPR from mouser for just over 50 bucks. Hopefully it will do the trick but, I have a feeling that the GPR burn up was a result of lots of cranking on bad GP'S . I am going to put to use some of the tech. write ups and check the UVCH and gp resistances and for shorts today ..
Thanks again
Tony Martin

 

Did you ever check the fuel pressure?